DingerBaits

I use it on test baits since it dries pretty quick. It worked pretty well on one of my ghost color baits. Handled a couple large flat heads and a few small mouth pretty well. I wouldn't use it on a bait I was selling though.

Slow pour, let settle. it is pretty fluid when you first get it. I am actually getting a vacuum sealer for mason jars so I can clear the air out of it after opening

Suggestion is a wide mouth mason jar so you dont have to worry about the lid getting stuck shut rendering the can worthless.

There are a few of us in the States that do research and only purchase high quality baits. You will see a post I put in the Blank Crankbait Body Links that is pinned to the top of the forum page. It should be on one of the last pages of that forum. Those are the things that most of us check for in suppliers. Certain suppliers make inconsistent blanks due to poor quality control because they want quantity over quality. I don't particularly like to bash any companies that sell blanks, but in this case... You get what you pay for. I would stick with American suppliers such as Dinger, Get Bit, Predator, Dakota, and Unpainted Lures.

Japanese flush cut saw is a great hand tool for doing the joints.

Yup some one watched Shark Tank last night. I don't think that any of the Sharks knew that there was the Hydro-Wave out...

If it is a regular thread try using a hot knife to cut the shape, you may get it to lay down then.

High velocity low pressure would be my guess

Internets been down here at work so I could not reply to the posts. Great stuff, I appreciate all the advice. Thank you all!

Good stuff here. Does any one use any type of urethane?

I did see that post. Those flat sides do look nice.Thanks again for the info.

Thanks Ben, I appreciate the input. I have been looking at a few different processes for making the Balsa baits and along with sealing them. Just trying to weight all the options. I don't want to have to put all my eggs in one basket. I am more looking at the Balsa side for my own line instead of just doing all Unpainted and hard plastics. BJBarron, That helps also. I am thinking the epoxy method would be the best, but I am not sure how it would work for the process I am thinking of making the baits.

Taking a leap of faith and looking into doing some Balsa work. What is the best method to seal the balsa? I know that in previous attempts the balsa becomes a little "furry" even after sanding it smooth just do to Balsa's grain tendency to absorb most everything. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks

I generally use a Badger Sotar when painting, but when I want a splatter I switch to my Iwata Eclipse and take the two front pieces off of the tip, when you do that it does not concentrate the paint through the tip. It will create a splatter effect with just spraying it.

I have a possible hand poured rat in the works, just have to finish the blank and mold.

I was thinking if it is just an adhesive back on the eye, try heating it up a little with a hair dryer to soften up the adhesive, then try popping it out. Hell, its worth a try

one other option is if you use a pearl colored paint, spray a transparent color over it, depending on how thick you spray will change how much shows.

You can use some pearls to get that color, thin layers. Otherwise they do make pearls in those colors.

wonder bread is more of a color for salmon and trout on spoons. There was a color Flicker shad used to make called "Hot Perch" that is no longer made, that was always a good color for me. You may chuckle when I tell you, but I have been doing pretty well on 6XD in the citrus shad just casting. But pretty much everything around here is Purple.

Depending where you are, anything with Purple is a good seller in my area. Purple faced clown is always a good one, or purple perch or purple fire tiger.

Here is why they dont... Read the abstract... that is 3/4 of the fishing lures. Abstract A lure has a lip properly slanted down forward which is attached in a neighborhood of a front end portion of a lure body that is formed to have an external appearance imitating a small fish. A head section of the lure body is formed to have a tapered thin edge shape in top view. 1. A fishing lure with a lure body formed to have an external appearance imitating a small fish, the fishing lure comprising: a lip properly slanted down forward, the lip being attached to a neighborhood of a front end portion of the lure body, wherein a head section of the lure body is formed to have a tapered thin edge shape in top view. 2. The fishing lure according to claim 1, wherein a recessed portion is formed in an upper surface of the head section of the lure body. 3. The fishing lure according to claim 1, wherein a base of the lip joined to the lure body is formed to continue linearly from a front end portion of the lip and is joined as it is to the lure body. 4. The fishing lure according to claim 2, wherein a base of the lip joined to the lure body is formed to continue linearly from a front end portion of the lip and is joined as it is to the lure body. 5. The fishing lure according to claim 1, wherein a base of the lip joined to the lure body is formed in a manner that both sides of the base are raised properly upward. 6. The fishing lure according to claim 2, wherein a base of the lip joined to the lure body is formed in a manner that both sides of the base are raised properly upward.

Ha ha! My apologies Richard. I just like how much control you have with them due to the squeezable sides so the glue doesnt just run out all over the place.

Same stuff I use.

there is a free program available called GIMP. It is an editing program similar to Photo Shop but it is FREE free is good