barrybait
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Everything posted by barrybait
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![20160625 203605[1]](https://www.tackleunderground.com/community/media/gallery/category_8/sml_gallery_44587_8_237754.jpg)
Carved this bait from basswood. Modeled similar to Lucky Craft BDS3. Twisted wire hook hangar thru belly weight. Long twisted wire hangars for line tie and rear hangar. Not thru wired. Each hangar secured with D2T. I'm not worried about thru wiring with bass wood but I do my hangar drill holes all the way thru, fill the entire hole up with D2T then D2T my twisted wire and insert. Home made circuit board lip from LPO circuit board sheet. I mark them out with a square, scribe, cut with band saw, then finish sand to the lines with a 1" belt sander. These are providing good action Createx paint same pattern as previous post. D2T'd. Action, compared to BDS3, it is a little wider wobble, a little slower and heavier. Haven't fished it yet. -
![20160625 203254[1]](https://www.tackleunderground.com/community/media/gallery/category_8/sml_gallery_44587_8_819906.jpg)
Another shad same as my previous post but with my now famous home made coffin bill. (thanks Mark Poulson) I enhanced my shad pattern and got the lower half shimmering with some Createx Wicked Aluminum, then to the bone colored belly. Also added pearl orange throat and tip of tail. Oh yeah, my dobbed eyes are getting better. I'm using the back end of a drill bit like before but now I am using the cheap acrylic paint, not air brush paint and I am able to get better painted eyes now. -
![20160625 203740[1]](https://www.tackleunderground.com/community/media/gallery/category_8/sml_gallery_44587_8_1002310.jpg)
Made this flatside balsa crankbait and used this pre made circuit board type lip from LPO. I have been making my own circuit board lips from the sheet purchased from LPO and they both work great. I used two 1/4" pieces of balsa to make the bait, epoxying them together after channeling them out for my weight and thru wire rig. For a weight I used a mojo weight which I cut in half length wise and had to drill out the center hole a little. Then I used the 19 gage ss wire, cut a long piece, put a twisted eye near the middle then ran both legs up thru my mojo weight, bending one forward tor another twisted line tie eye and the other aft to the rear hook hangar. Drilled 1/4" hole for the weight, seperated the halves and traced out the wires and hangars so I could channel out the balsa to accomodate the harness. Finished with Createx paints. I primer white then paint the bottom half gray and the upper half golden yellow. Scale mesh then paint bone on bottom, smoke the back with greatly reduced pearl black, then add some purple on the shoulder and remove the mesh. May have to enhance the golden yellow some after that but it is making a good shad pattern. Topped with D2T. Sized this similar to the coffin bill we used to get from Bustin Bass Baits or Evergreen on ebay but doesn't seem like we will be able to get them anymore. This works pretty well, even better than the coffin I think but it doesn't go quite as deep. About 5 feet. -
Very nice Mark. Those look great and I've seen a previous model and yes plenty of hook gets exposed for Mr. Bass. Barry -
Very nice. Love the colors. Beautiful work. Barry -
It's All Barry Sterud's Fault! Circuit Board Bills (Lpo)
barrybait replied to mark poulson's topic in Hard Baits
Hey Mark, When you put the centerline on it with a compass, was the needle pointing toward the "N"? Glad that bait worked out good for you, and the bills. I'm going out to catch them again tomorrow out of Sugar Barge with a small local club. (my 'other club') Droping in at 6am if you are around, see you out there. Barry -
foamboard, Nice job on the lure, but the song is really good. If you put it together you did a really nice job composing it. It changes up nicely. You must have a background in music to get that done. Congrats, Barry
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Wow! That bait is beautifully crafted and finished. Awesome job fatfingers. Your work makes me feel like I'm all thumbs but when I see this stuff it helps me step up my game too. Thanks for sharing. Barry -
I really like your gill pattern. Your green pumpkin is just right. Nice clean pattern. Good job. Barry -
Nice bait. Finish looks great. Good work. Barry -
Nice job Mark. Have to utilize that plopper in the club tournament coming up. It's a good bait. One of the kids on the team has their personal best on it plus it is just fun to fish and you can cover so much water because it casts like a super spook. I'm boater for a camera on the FLW tourny then boating for a high school team on Sunday's FLW high school team State Championship. Barry
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Pearl Over Foil "American Shad" Glide Bait
barrybait commented on Cougarftd's gallery image in Hard Baits
The foil sure helps that Pearl glow. Nice work. Barry -
Nice work well finished. Good job. Barry -
Heat guns are much better than hair dryers for heat curing paint on plastic or other baits for these reasons. The desired outcome in a perfect world would be to heat the paint to the "heat cure" temperature without heating up the bait itself. A hotter gun will heat the paint up very quickly before the bait can heat up significantly. A lower temp gun takes longer to heat the paint up and by the time the paint reaches the desired temperature, the bait has significantly warmed. With a very hot gun I can practically blister paint before the plastic bait would suffer any damage/bulging from the heat. Sweep the gun over the bait and sweep it over your hand a little too so you get some idea of how warm things are getting. Keep it moving and don't hold it steady on the bait. Think about it. I put a turkey in the oven at 375F and it takes 3 hrs for the temperature probe in the meat reaches 170F but the temperature of the skin on the turkey is 375 in a very short period of time.
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Search for Signature Label Paper
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I haven't done it myself but I think what they were doing is printing out thier signature very small on water slide decal paper then cutting them out and sticking them onto the lure.
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To me it seems like hard paint jobs are easy and easy paint jobs are hard. I can paint a great looking rainbow trout and always seem to get a nice job on a blue gill pattern (haven't tried pumkinseed thou). Then I try a shad pattern and I am on about my seventh generation shad pattern and still not satisfied. Then a friend wanted me to paint a glide bait like the Lucky Craft Ghost Minnow. I said no problem I will have it for you in a couple days. Now, I have scrubbed off my 6th attempt and just can't get a satisfactory job done on it. About to give up on it and move on. I'm probably running into the same problems the previous post had with sexy shad. Looks easy paints hard, looks hard paints easy. Barry
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Great looking pattern, well done. I had to comment that I haven't seen this particular pattern before but the next morning the Bengal pattern got posted. Only pattern I did similar was yellowing up and oranging up the a red craw pattern. Seems in the spring when red craw is so good and later shades more like this fish better. Good job. Barry -
Looks great! Nice pattern. I haven't seen the pattern before but is it a coincidence I see it at about the same time the mojave tiger shad pattern gets posted. They both look great. Barry -
I was visiting a friend and seen two top water baits (lunker punkers) that had failed. Coating failed, wood split, wts all but falling out. I asked him how much he wanted for them and he said he was going to fix them. I laughed, said you better let me fix em. That's how I learned to weight top water punkers, wooden super spooks, etc. You may be able to fix a friends failed lure or buy one cheap at a garage sale that has failed and cracked and they think is no good anymore. It'll be plenty good enough to learn from. Barry
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I can't remember which video I saw it on but this looked like a great way to go. Cut your slot for the wire harness with your table saw and note the blade thickness. Buy or cut the same material in the blade thickness. They have 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8" x 1" x 36" Balsa and Basswood at the craft stores. When you epoxy your wire harness in, brush epoxy on the thin board and slide it in the slot. Don't worry about the part that sticks out it will sand down quick.
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As usual, you are keeping the bar set pretty high Mikko. Thanks for sharing. It's always good to see your work and it helps me step up my game too. Awesome. Barry -
I posted something similar to this quite a while back. I had not put my lures in the water but I had turned out some balsa wood Zara Spook type stick baits. (Cigar shaped about 6 inches long) I sealed them with D2T after adding hook hangars and weights and they were ready for a water test. They felt squishy to and it was just the flex of the D2T over balsa, there was some give to it between my fingers. I noticed when I was putting hooks on it for a test, one of the hook points went right through the D2T. I had to fix that pin hole before testing in the water. I asked TU about it and several members said that was normal and just to keep going. I did and they were right. Balsa is soft and you can feel some "give" to it when you squeeze it between your fingers even after one coating of 30 min epoxy. Another coat of epoxy after painting will help the strength. I had not used super glue prior to the D2T. Also I would comment that this squishy or springy feel of the bait is much more pronounced on a larger bait. It was very obvious on the long sides of the stick bait I had made and would probably not be obvious on a small 1.5 square bill type bait. Compare the springy feel of the side of a soda can compared to the stiffness at the ends.
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They look great Boarbaits. they look well made and quality finished. Nice work. Barry -
Nice work Cougarftd. Barry
