barrybait

I have often thought of splitting the bait the other way...horizontally instead of a vertical plane. That way you could have the strength of a harder wood and have a light weight top half for extra vertical stability when swimming and thereby reduce roll. I haven't tried it though. It is difficult to sand something soft next to something hard and come out evenly.

I haven't tried it yet but was more worried about my gun spraying the concrete sealer AC1315. I was wondering if I sprayed a super thin coat it would not get a chance to wrinkle the paint due less time in contact with wet sealer. Then I could dip it one or more times to get a more durable protective coat. I still struggle with Createx paint wrinkling expecially if heavier applications of paint which are sometimes necessary. Yes I am heat drying each coat, i have waited a day or two in warm dry climate. Still can experience wrinkling. I know it's fumy too and will have to take serious precautions to protect my self too is why I haven't tried it.

I tried attaching foil with Solarez with the MEKP curing agent added and it turned out real nice. Then after I cleaned up all the edges, I covered the entire bait with D2T prior to painting. I like to do this because if I mess up the painting work I can clean it up and start over without damaging the foil. The D2T clouded up and ruined the foil work anyway. I think it was because the D2T reacted with the Solarez. Thanks CrazyMike for your write-up. Confirms my suspicions. I really should do a test and prove it though.

I've coated a couple of these. Although I don't use a turner, my process may help you out. I stretch the bait out on a hoop about 4 inches longer than the bait. If you get something in around the tail to break the glue loose, remove the tail. The tail receptacle is a "T" shaped slot opening at the bottom. I sanded/carved a craft stick to fit snugly in the slot. I also filed a small vee in the center of the stick. I twisted a wire around the vee and shoved it in the tee slot and now I had a wire to attach the tail to my hoop and tape it securely at the hoop. Another s shaped wire at the nose and rubber band stretch to the opposite end of the hoop. You can also put a rubber band around your stick vee slot, stretch it thin and insert it into the bait. If you can't get the tail out. I stretch the bait out with wire s hooks and rubber bands. One on the front and one on the rear hook hangar. When you do this the front and rear sections of the bait will want to touch at the top of the bait due the location of the rear hook hanger pulls at an angle and cocks the bait at the hinge hangars. So....get a piece of rubber or wood to push down in between the two sections of the bait until it is lodged in the gap area just above the upper hinge hangar. You can pull it out later after the coating has cured. My hoop is just a spare coil of brake line tubing left over from a repair of my trailer surge brakes. It was round so I just squeezed it oval so I could suspend this bait in there. I have used Solarez and D2T so far and I just turn it a couple of times until the coating stiffens then leave to complete cure.

If that don't work, give the nozzle a very very close inspection. The nozzle where the needle seats is a very small brass part and easily mushrooms out and splits or cracks and it that is the case you need a new nozzle. You have to be very gentle on the neo when seating the needle to the nozzle and tightening the chuck nut. Use very light pressure on the needle to the nozzle when tightening the chuck nut and put the guard back on the back of the gun so the needle doesn't accidentally get jammed forward and ruin the nozzle. If you need a new nozzle, small doesn't mean cheap, print out your 40% discount coupon for Hobby Lobby so you don't wind up paying 24 bucks.