wallyc14

Good question. I don’t really know.

Garlic is the most potent one I have found. My shop smells like it. It over powers everything.

Yes all the sb coat stuff is potent. I don’t handle it any different than mek or acetone. Nitrile gloves and ventilation that doesn’t spark.‘I mix in my airbrush cup.‘I use clear and plastisol colorant to make custom colors. Just mix it in the cup and shoot. I use an iwata eclipse.

Heat plays a roll in suspension as we’ll . Example plastic at 350 the salt will settle out fast. I usually shoot at around 310-320 when making stick baits to keep the settling at bay. Over the years I have gotten to the point I use worm salt and glass media. Some where around here MonteSS posted some pics along time ago of clear plastic with just glass media in it.

Lurecoat is what it’s called. I have had no yellowing issues as well.

They also make one for lure coating. I’ve used about 16 oz all in all . No real complaints. I decided to go the uv route . Less waste. Neither are what I would call cheap.

Smokes a little when I first used it. It’s not horrible though.

I too also made the switch however have yet to try.

Sorry for the late response .I put my cups in then I poured sand around the tray.Then I mixed a quart of water and mixed quite a bit of Elmer’s glue until I basically had watered down glue so it would completely soaked down into the sand. I plugged it in and set it on low heat for a couple hours and then turned it off and let it sit overnight and by the time I got up the next day it was good and hard I could pull my Pyrex cups right out. It will take 400 degrees with no problems.

I use acetone with no Problems. I do try to stay away from the orings with it other than having to wear the proper PPE or it being very flammable. It’s a great grease cutter wd 40 is a good choice as well. I use acetone for a deep cleaning and wd 40 as cleaning between color changes and when I’m storing molds and my mixer for the off season

Can you post a pic of the color? I have never heard of it.

You need to make sure it’s glass for heating . IPyrex anchor etc.

I put my cups in . Poured sand mixed with Elmer’s glue in. Let it dry and good to go.

This is for those who use a presto pot and a stirring machine. 1 : do y’all use a insulation blanket around the pot? What’s the real world benefit? 2: How long does it take to bring the plastic up to temp? I’ve done some some research and found the barstools way to heat is a microwave then dump in the pot, however my mics take for ever to heat 4 cups let alone 3/4 of a gallon. Thanks for the help folks :-)

I use silver leaf and top coat with epoxy. its a lot of work but comes out nice.

Agree with all said. Now let me add my two cent. Heat stabilizer is your friend.. it only takes a couple of drops to 4 oz of plastic. When I’m doing hand pours I use a deep griddle with sand in it to help hold the heat in the pan. The more plastic you use the longer the cups will hold the heat.

I use an aluminum can. However you can hand pour the first color and inject the second. If I don’t want to break out the dual injector that’s the easiest. Now if the mold had multiple legs a plate is easier.

One last thing! If your salt is sinking in your hot plastic. Run it a little cooler when you shoot it will suspend better. 310-320 is where I’m at most of the time when making sticks.

Salt clouds the color. Glass beads don’t do it as bad. However use an old injector if use glass beads as it will scratch up the walls of it. Salt won’t. I have been using a mix of the two for a while. The glass beads make a very durable bait but as said before there is a price to pay for using them. With all that said I’ve been using the same bears injector for this for about 4or 5 years. I just have to change o rings a little more often. The scratches really have done nothing. You just need to get the right type and grit of beads. DO NOT use crushed glass. That will definitely F up your shooter.

IMHO to each his own. Salt does have its place. Sinking plastisol has its place. Not to knock M and F as it is good plastic however out of all of them it is the most expensive. I use super soft to make my stick worms from them. If what your out for is a translucent bait then use the sinking plastisol. I like the more opaque colors versus the translucent ones some times. It is all subjective. I think of it like this: tools in a tool box. The right tool for the job is what it’s all about. 4 oz super soft plastisol 3 table spoons salt of glass media 1tablespoon of softner This is the recipe I have used for 8 yrs. The fish seem to like them. Are they soft? Oh yeah! Are they one hit wonders? Yep! At best it’s a balancing act between softness and durability . You can’t have it both ways .

I used calhouns when bait junky’s sold it. Medium is good for craw baits and Ribon tail worms and grubs . I got a nice thump with it. As far as stuff like drop shot and stick baits I used soft. For me personally soft was not soft enough so I added more softner when making stick baits my normal formula was 4 oz of soft plastic 3 tablespoons of salt 1 tablespoon of softner this will make an 11 gram 5 inch stickbait

I know for a fact the small 604 will fit the mold

M and f baby bass will get you close.

True that! I will say that I have mixed different hardner and softner and heat stabilizer from 4 different suppliers with no I’ll effects. FYI :-)

I have never used do it plastic. I do agree they ate mostly the same. Will h that said I can tell you this if your going to use hardner( thick paste type) add additional heat stabilizer and mix well in fresh plastic before adding to remelts. The watered down hardner ( consistency of plastisol) I believe already has additional stabilizer in it.i have used it in remelts with great success.