wallyc14

That’s a loaded question . Lol! You’ll get tons of answers. Me? I use medium to med hard bait plastic brand . Something like a 3.8 size I use med. With larger like 5 or 6 I use med hard.

I use an iwata eclipse airbrush. No puddle. It took a lot of practice to het it right.

If you have clear you can make your own black with black plastisol colorant mixed with clear.

Sb coat black paint. Either with an airbrush or a dowel rod of the appropriate size.

Frank is right as usual. You can also disconnect the tie bar on the twin shooter and pulse each injector. What I have done in the past was to take multiple molds and clamp them together and use 1/2 inch copper tee ,some 90’s and pipe to make a runner system. I found out the more room”mold count” the better the results.

You can spray with clear sb . It will hold for a while but will rub off sooner or later.I agree with Frank the eye dropper is the best way to put it in an airbrush. Retarder will definitely help with the cob webs. A clear dip in plastisol is best for longevity.

Oh yeah! The paste when mixing you have to stir the crap out of it. Cheers!

I have never seen a clear hardner. All I’ve seen is white. I’ve come across 2 different types or hardner. One being like what m and f sells which I believe is a blended down hardner mixed with plastisol and stabilizer to be easy to mix with plastisol. IMHO a quick method to change the hardness. The other I have seen is ”paste” type.It is a pia to work with. It is potent though. From all the years of playing with it I learned if I use the paste I have to add heat stabilizer or it scorches will out doubt. A 1/2 teaspoon in 4 oz of plastic with 3 or 4 drops of stabilizer will change medium plastic quite a bit.Sometime I will pre-mix a quart of plastic with a certain amount of Hardner depending on what kind of bait on making.

True that.

With the salt in the plastic m and f tends to be the Weakest colorant . Lureworks is strong for sure even with salt but, I don’t see that as necessarily a bad thing one way or the other weaker works for me. I know it takes more colorant to get there but it’s easier to build a color than to take away. Back when I cared about a dead on match to a GY bait every color I hit was always with M n F and watermelon is straight out the bottle watermelon green n/b

M and f should be a dead on match. Watermelon green that is. depending on what glitter is used is how the color changes. My watermelon blue flake is a dead on match as well as watermelon red flake.the blue flake makes it greener and the red flake makes it more brown. I read somewhere m and f is what GY uses. My green pumpkin is close as well. With all that said don’t get to hung up on a dead on match. You’ll go crazy. Lol. close works.

I’ve been using them for at least four years. I still use the same injector since I started using them. Yes they scratch but not to the point of total failure . I have had to change the oring twice but no biggie. My sticks I use a mix of beads and salt. Durability is better however I make mine super soft so I tend to go through a lot.

+1 bass tackle

+1 . Same here after three year’s .

Very true. Like everything else when it’s new your going to want to play with it and experiment.i went through 2 gallons the first month filling my friends tackle boxes as well as mine. Now no so much. I make what I know I will use. I still experiment when I get a new mold, but I make stock in the winter when I can’t fish. I’ll usually make north of 1000 baits.

I would start with a gallon unless you know your going to make a lot or a lot of mistakes. I just wouldn’t recommend starting with quarts like I did . I went through a quart the first night. Lol

That’s a very loaded question. You’ll get lots of answers. My advice to you is to start with which ever one you like. Each one has there plus and minuses..use what works for you.Bait plastics is inexpensive and so far to me seems ok. Which might be your best choice to start. This is the way I did it when I first started. Buy cheap I would rather waste cheap plastic at 25 bucks a gallon versus something that’s 68 bucks a gallon.

I use welders gloves or the rubber coated gloves. I don’t use a respirator.i have a hood vent that moves ALOT of air. I never smell the cooking plastic at all . I want to say a respirator for organic compounds will do the trick. When I first started I use one for asbestos. Never smelled it once.

It’s blasting media. You want the glass bead media not the crushed glass stuff

Depends on container . The ones that come from bait plastics is the wide mouth gallon jug. A small paint stirrer will work on a drill. The smaller one gallon jugs. I would put in a bigger container and mix.

Your most productive colors. Me? Green pumpkin #1 watermelon #2 black #3 white#4 chartreuse #5 . the nice thing about black and white you can brighten or darken any color you want. The other nice thing is black and white are good choices for just about any water color. Green pumpkin is the #1 selling color for bass fishing last time I looked. Good for clear to stained water . Watermelon is a good clear to lightly stain water. Watermelon blue flake is my weapon of choice when the water I fish is really clear 6-10’ of clarity. Another note on color buy a color wheel and learn how to use it. With it and some basic colors you can make any color you want.

Yep!

I did not notice any fading. But white will turn red as it bleeds

No real way to stop it . The only success I had was with red shad. I have an old bottle of bears red shad red that bleeds. The red probably bleeds into the black but I’ll be darn if I can see it in the black.

To my understanding dyes bleed . Plastisol colorant do not. Red is a bad one but you can get some reds that don’t bleed. M and F Rudd Finn won’t bleed .