fishon-son

this bait has zero stretch to it ..it seams the mylar is holding it tight..but it bends well......

few days back I picked up a bag of these baits .99 a bag great price ..these bait have a matching piece of foil in the middle of the bait . I guess as a reflective ...I have 2 questions..1st has anyone tried to do this ..it really look like it would work well as a swim jig trailer...and 2nd....the bait has a funny smell to them more like burnt gas/motor oil..? I washed 1 bait with soap and water ( dawn) a towel dryed and it still smelled....im started to think its the foil maybe? from the heat of the plastic....I went back to the store later and checked some of the other bags ,different colors and all of them smelled the same.....it dose not look like it was burnt in any way....or maybe its mylar in the bait.....any help? I'm not out much

one of the adams has a shop in the u k he makes crankbait blank molds for anyone custom done....might be worth a look.......custom lure factory......slawek adams paul dose videos on you tube...

keep us posted on those baits......and me on that finger surgery...i just took the first shot in my right ring finger....that smarts...by far one of the most painful shots on the market....hope it work for me...surgery next if not...

what size and type of blanks are we talking about.?? the big thing I see coming in the market is the life like painting..the better or higher cost bait have the best paint jobs....but, that don't really mean anything just make sure your bait swims right out of the box...looks good and it will find its place....skip on any of that and your doomed ...that's just me.....design is another one if your going to make them you got to start with the design pony up for great software........if your going on the cheap side of things make them for yourself and buddys..do some give aways I feel that really works...it has for me in plastics......good luck...

nice job so far....id like to see it done....looks like some vise marks on the side.....if so try some felt in the jaws....i did a bass crank from balsa and im waiting for warm weather to paint i used hook hangers so im no help ......but ,I'm looking to do a muskie bait soon...check the how to section....im sure theres something there helpful

I was looking at the collector side of the older warts mark.....when I done fishing them I poke them on the rafters in the basement...my grandkids retirement..lol...but, yes ive seen them on his site..also found a company on Alibaba that has them......but.............any bomber ( fat A ) blanks out there?????? id love 10/20 of those...6f 7f now that's a bait

im buying pre rap warts

joel great video.....id like to see some safty in here some where....the burns that could happen ouch.......but you did good........any kids watching please use gloves and safty glasses...........joel you did good thanks for the share...id liked both baits

nice job you did here ..very good idea ..sometimes keeping it simple is a better and cheaper way.....this will go into the memory bank for sure.......

check out a neds rig worm mold at baitjunkie.com great bait............

thinking outside the box..thats great what a set up....

here we go again bob, most people on here I'm thinking work out of there garages or sheds....im thinking most cant afford heat treatment and want to make there own punch cutter.(if they can).....if you use reg.motor oil and can heat your punch with a heat source and get it cherry red but not to over heat it....grab it with pliers and drop it in a coffee can(quench) of motor oil..the carbon in the oil will harden the punch ..( carb harden) now if you over heat it and get it to hot it will crack the part....motor oil can be used oil but not synthetic oil...that has no carbon in it....the oil will flash and start on fire sometimes..just put a rag over the topof the can and that will put it out...make sure your part is cherry red hot and just drop it in.......BOB IT WORKS....you can use 4140 ,o1,or any steel that will carb harden.d2 m2 m4 will most likely crack if it gets to hot ..the hardening is not needed but your punch and die will last longer if you heat treat them...2 qts. or more is all that's needed....just enough to get your part covered is what your looking for but. if you have more oil the better..do a couple oil changes on the car and truck then use that oil...I have a steel 5 gal paint can in the shop..and that's what we use.....if anyone wants to make there own punch and die and your not sure of how to do this pm me.your phone number.and ill call you..its not hard to do and will work for what your doing....a propane torch will work that used to solder copper pipe....just will take a little pit to heat your punch.....scrap steel from the scrap yard will work to most yards have there steel marked look for o1 40rc.or better will be just fine or just take your steel file and rub a corner if it digs in your part is soft if it slides across your more then hard..most mill bastard files are over 60 rc. harden...THERES NO JUJU BOB. JUST SOME BACK YARD MECHANICS I PICKED UP YEARS AGO....please pm me if needed I'm willing to help anyone anytime...boy bob id like to walk into your shop....man we would have some fun......peace bro.....

nobody asked so i will...i know it dont matter....but,,,, what are we fishing for..?????? thats a big hook slot..WOW thats a big lure....i thinking salt water..maybe.....oh wait your from texas everything is big in texas.....wow....

put your tube put in the oven at 250 for about 5/10 mins....or on the stove..if you have a gas stove your all set. that will heat up quick on the burner...but dont get it to hot ..melt your o-ring...wear gloves to...

i guess punching your own is better then machining them....thanks for the share...you can flame harden with motor oil ,in a coffee can...

i like that...thanks for the share...i see a stringer of gills soon....

wow thats a big bait...maybe shoot the belly first then the rest after it cools..but a top pour for sure will do it....if you can find a alumimum funnel and use it for a sprue extender that may work just for the extra pressure pushing down to hold the plastic in place..also some one said 310/325 deg....400 wow thats hot you maybe boiling the plastic at that heat....

just wondering if anyone alters there crankbaits to make them do differant things....i have a few 2.5 and 3.5 square bills that id like to run deeper so im think of gluing a bigger bill to the bill on the bait itself.then sanding it so it dives deeper...anyone try this.?

thanks mark...was looking for these....funny Walmart don't have them...lol

I'm in Michigan and DONT do any plastics in the winter..i to use my garage to.. but , you got to have ventilation....so my door is wide open and the windows opened too....way to cold for me......about mid april is my starting time then I go gang busters ...

did that wouldnt work .but, the 1 inch ext.worked great

MY DENTS WERE FIXED BY ADDED 1 INCH EXTENSION TO MY INJECTION PORT..OFF A BEARS STICK MOLD WORKS GET..I THINK SOMEONE MAKES THEM..I MADE MY OWN....

check out.. shopbaitjunkies.com great guy......I like reg.or soft...but watch out you may have just opened the dam on this question......you'll understand later , keep coming back. its a great site...

thats good seams like a stand up person that cares about his customers .....