goodtimesfishing

Have any of you guys tried a clear coat called "spray max 2k"? It is suppose to be automotive grade urethane and it is in a 2 part spray can.

Saw it at cabelas.....they want $285 for it. I did not see a price in the video. Where did you see a lower price then expected JRammit?

Yes, lead lures.

Sharpies work great and craft stores like Joanne's or hobby lobby have a HUGE assortment of colors! Sharpie also makes a paint pen I saw at Joanne's....have not tried them and the actual ink pen might actually be better for feathers.

Brandon- Please send me your contact info, I would like to send you some jigs for the kids to add to there tackle kit.

Limpnoodle- that was exactly my point......the rack was the issue. OP(and others)asked for experiences with painting jigs with electrostatic gun. For painting these type of jigs it is the best way in my opinion to PP them. Works great! Also, I am not saying you need to heat set, just that it is an option.

Cadman- It really is a reasonable price especially with 20% off coupon. I think if you get one you will be happy with it. I would be curious what you have to say about it after trying, as you are use to using professional grade. I believe you will be satisfied....It worked better then I expected but I had never used any other.

smalljaw- I too add clear to difficult paints with no ill effects. Have you done this to pearl white? And if so did you notice less pearl effect? I felt like it had less pearl effect when I did that with my pearl white, but like you, I had to make it stretch until I got more.

I just want to make sure you guys understand what my situation was. I had aprox 50 slab type spoons(do it casting spoon 1 1/2 oz) hanging from hooks on rack that fit in average size toaster oven(maxed out the capacity). My problem was if I picked up rack the jigs would swing into each other. I could have made a different rack system but decided to just heat set the powder (took less then a minute with heat gun) just enough to be able to pick up rack and carry to oven with out worry of if jigs touched each other. I was not trying to make it sound like when electrostatically powder painting that heat setting is a normal step in the process(I know it is not needed). Just wanted to show what worked for me in my situation, in hopes it might help someone else. As quoted by Dlaery- If you bump it directly it will come off. That is exactly what I was saying. And it will just come off where bumped....not like every bit of powder falls to floor. But for me if any falls off I start over as I am picky and just a little on the OCD side. Could have done less jigs at a time but heat setting saved me TONS of time and frustration.

Cadman- as the part is going down the conveyor, reach over and run your finger down the part....I think the powder will come off. Unless your conveyor system preheats items. Also the electrostatic does not clean the part. You must clean the part prior and they even recommend heating part for ten minutes or so to be sure there is no moisture(this is not preheating but part of the cleaning process). I think you guys are misunderstanding me. All the powder did not fall off...only where the jigs banged into each other.The coverage was outstanding, there was no ground problem. If there was a ground problem the paint would not have been on the back side of the jigs(I only had to paint from one direction...yet paint was on the back side of jig....it was attracted electrostatically). Got me curious so I looked up a couple utube videos and they seem to say the same thing I do. Quote from video "be careful when transferring to oven, if you blow on it, it will just fall off". Another video states a benefit of electrostatic spraying is being able to blow off and start over if your not happy with coverage. Not trying to be argumentative but the fact is until the paint is heated it WILL wipe right off or blow off with compressed air. The ONLY thing holding the powder on your part is static electricity, until object is heated. Notice when you see them doing wheels, they hang items with lots of room to prevent the painted items from touching each other as that would disturb the powder prior to being heated. Notice the care taken when transferring to oven...this is to prevent disturbing powder prior to heating as that would effect paint job. I would have put a link up for the videos but I don't know how to, but if you goggle "diy powder coating" go to aprox.the 5:25 time of video.

In my case I had slab spoons hanging by hooks close together, so getting to oven without the slabs hitting or bumping each other was something I was only willing to try once. When some bumped into each other a small amount of pp was messed up and I can be rather picky so I found it quicker in the long run to spend 30-45 seconds heat setting so I don't have to be so steady handed. Heating them real quick with the heat gun made it so it wouldn't matter if they bumped each other(let it cool before moving). Coverage was great....no problem with the ground.

Thanks for the tip Apdriver! I like the idea and for $7.84 delivered to your door, I'm willing to give it a try! Just ordered one! I have gotten use to swishing the white around prior to dipping but it would be nice to not have to do that.....worth trying for that cheap!

First I will say I have only used the harbor freight one so I have nothing to compare it too. With that said I was happy with how it worked and it did everything I expected with no disappointments(I knew there would be lots of overspray to recover. My recovery system was nothing more then a card board box that as soon as I was done I would dump the loose powder back into the bag of pp that was dedicated to the electrostatic sprayer. I was only using one color(chartreuse). I did not have or notice anyways any contamination in the bag of pp....but like I said I immediately recovered the powder paint and did only one color Would have to say it actually worked better then I had expected and the only surprise was, I thought I would be able to move to curing oven without setting paint. First batch was heading to oven but kept knocking pp off in spots, so I put the whole rack of jigs back in the box and with compressed air cleaned all the pp off and re-sprayed. This time prior to trying to move I took heat gun on low setting(low setting so you don't blow off pp before it adheres)and heat set the pp. I then could move the rack to oven without messing up pp. If you have any other questions let me know and I will see if I can help.

I have the hf electrostatic pp gun. I have only done slab type casting jigs(so no hook eyes and points to worry about). First I would recommend a pp recovery system to capture all the excess paint. Make one out of a card board box. What I did after spraying is set the paint with heat gun so you can move to oven with out messing up powder.....powder will fall off if bumped or touched or blown hard with heat gun. If I did jigs with hooks I would try to make a jig that covers shank and point and then use acid brush with shortened bristles to wipe away powder prior to setting paint with heat. You could clamp the jigs in one of those painting racks that cover the shank. Then maybe have it hang upside down on a strung wire by a couple j hooks screwed into bottom of painting rack. Have not tried it but If I did I think that is what I would try first.

Those look great!

Salmon love wiggle warts! As you can tell that king salmon had a liking to it. What is the difference in that glow paint(glonation) vs. other glow paints?

Mold comes with a pull pin that creates the hole thru lure body. You need to pull pin right as soon as you are done pouring the lead.

jonister- If you decide to try a different product, give kms diamond coat a try. Great stuff! All the pros of dick nite with less of the storability issue. If you do decide on dick nite be sure and use the link on this forum to get the discount......saves like half off if I remember correctly.

X2 on what barr5150 said. KBS is awesome and after a few months I have yet to have to thin it, but xylol is the stuff to use when needed. I dip jigs in jar of kbs and even let it drip back in the jar with no issues.

Lure parts online item #1013 designer finish Colorado blades color #221 is a dead on match to the color your picture shows. Available in sizes 3,4,5

Looks like the ones on page 2 of LPO catalog...I think they are a new item for LPO.

+1 on KBS......love the stuff..never any flaking issues for me. I have nothing bad to say about KBS!

In most situations I let the rtv set up and then cut with razor blade. If situation doesn't allow for that, I wet my finger and smooth it out. Wet whatever tool you use and it will be less likely to stick.

X2 on the moose drool! Good stuff.

Here in the pacific northwest (western Washington) for the months of May and June this year is an all time record for both rain and heat. Least amount of rain and highest avg. temp ever recorded for May and June. I know, June is not over yet, however there is zero rain in the forecast and the heat is here for the rest of the month.