ChilliSpoons

If you can find a Commercial Salmon Troller they often troll Tomic plugs. When the paint wears off the plugs they tend to toss them into a bucket and eventually into the trash. I've been lucky enough to have received about 100 old plugs and sanded them down then used Rustoleum plastic paint meant for resin lawn chairs as a base before adding my own pain schemes. This might be an option???

And the paint is applied with a toothbrush not a toothpick.

Thanks for the response Jaw. Will the testors paint play nice with the layers of Createx, AutoAir and the concrete sealer topcoat?

To get a certain effect on some spoons I've been playing with using a toothbrush to apply sporadic brush strokes of fluorescent paint. The only paint that I currently have is the Createx or AutoAir that I used for my airbrush. Obviously this paint won't cure properly and will have durability issues. Does anyone have any suggestions for paint types that would work for this application?I prefer not to use solvent based paints as my painting is done in the basement. The spoons will be finished with either a concrete sealer or a rattle can clear.

I'm new at this game and curious how the more experienced guys deal with the drips. Do you wipe them off? If wiping at what point do you wipe them off and how? If the GST hardens can you sand the drips smooth?

Haha, too funny!!!!!!

No Apologies needed. I'm a newbie and struggle with consistency when laying down paint and find some of the comments may be related to some of those issues. When mixing paint it seems like "Thin to Win" is the trick and trying a rattle can base may not worth the risk when top coating with a concrete sealer. I'll continue to spray numerous layers of a white base to save possible negative paint reactions.

Here is my cleaning process on my Paasche Talon: Using Auto-Air or Createx Wicked paints Between Color changes: -Rinse the bowl thoroughly with warm water -Spray water through the airbrush and backflush the bowl numerous times until clean -Sometimes I'll spray some Isopropyl Alcohol through which seems to clear things out really well. At the end of the painting session: Same as above except: -Use some Fantastic in the bowl and allow to soak for a couple of minutes -Spray the Fantastic through the airbrush -Disassemble the airbrush and wipe the needle clean -Clean the tip with denture toothpicks

I wouldn't say that cleaning the airbrush is my favorite thing to do but it is all part of this hobby. But I do find the task of laying down multiple layers of a white base to be tedious and I wanted a shortcut. I have experimented with some spoons that we're previously painted and then clear coated with Rattle Can clears by dipping them in my concrete sealer. There wasn't any wrinkling or lifting of the paint which surprised me. Maybe the properties of my concrete sealer are somewhat different than GST concrete sealer commonly used on this forum. Let the experimentation continue

I never realized that water based rattle can paints existed. I'll definitely start with that option. And Yes, cleaning an airbrush is one of the least desirable parts of this whole painting hobby.

Hey People, My name's Terry and I live in Chilliwack, British Columbia. My local flows bring in seasonal runs of Salmon and Steelhead and the local lakes contain trout, kokanee and dolly varden. The ocean is close as well but I'm a relative newbie when it comes to fishing the salt water. But we did have some good success dragging my spoons off the East Coast of Vancouver Island last summer for Chinook Salmon. I've been painting spoons for a little over a year and now I've expanded to painting plugs. My mentor is a fellow painter that I've met on a local forum who lives in Salt Lake but loves and fishes our coastal waters. I owe him so very much as he's shortened my learning curve and guided me in the right direction. We've build a friendship and bond that usually comes from many many years. I toast a glass of scotch to my great friend BigFishMike. I stumbled across this forum and have been very impressed at the generosity of the members that share their experiences without judging. Usually in this age of online forum members are quick to judge and belittle those that are trying to learn and share similar passions. Another scotch toast but this time to the members of this forum. I look forward to learning more from the Tackle Underground members and hopefully I can share some of my experiences good and bad. I think that maybe one day I'll sell some of my spoons or plugs but until then I'm enjoying sharing with my fishing buddies.

Now the next test will be how the Concrete Sealer reacts to these paint combinations.

.99 rattle can from Walmart. I like that idea. Cheap and easy, just like me

Thanks Guys for the info. I'm definitely going to try the rattle can base on at least a few plugs.

I know that thin coats are the answer for laying down paint but I find multiple thin coats with my airbrush to be very tedious. The plugs that I paint are used plugs that I lightly sand prior to laying down my base. I was hoping that I could use a product like Krylon or Tremclad as a base. I use AutoAir and Createx paints followed by concrete sealer for my clear. I thoroughly heat set between coats but I'm curios if the rattle can base would react negatively with these other products. Any thoughts?