FrogAddict

Check out this link. http://www.outdoorlife.com/blogs/gone-fishin%E2%80%99/2012/07/revere-maxx-fishing-rex-rip-lure-breaks-convention-and-catches-fish

Nathan, I like that idea. Hmmm. I have a question about the material to use. I'm really thinking about using PVC, do you see any problem using PVC and twisted wire eye screws? What would you use to secure them, pvc epoxy putty, normal epoxy, superglue?? Also, would you have the worm hooks embedded into the bait or attached via split ring to the eye screw so they could "flop around?" I would love to attach via split ring so I could change them out but would that decrease the hook up ratio?

Well, I just ordered some .041 SSt wire from McMaster. I think one thing I've learned is to listen to the guys on this forum that have been there and done that.

I just went to the welding store, told the guy I was making lures, asked him if he had stainless steel wire. He showed me the stuff. It's like .035 inches. Seemed right so I bought it. Once I brought it home I realized it was tough to work with. I tried to make some twisted wire eyes and 3 of the 4 broke. I was able to make some being careful but now I'm concerned that they'll break. I think I'm going to make a dunce cap, put it on, take a picture and use that picture for my profile.

I've been thinking about either a fiber weed guard epoxied into the top of the lure, a wire affixed to the shaft of the hook or the solution Nathan explained. I'm leaning toward Nathan's solution with rubber worms only because it's seems the simplest. I think I'm going to install corkscrew wires on the back corners so I can put on some worms or grubs for frog legs.

Oh man I'm such a newbie. I know where to get the SST wire and the gauges. I just bought the hard temper crap and it's breaking when I twist it. Geez I have alot to learn....so Ive made a couple with galvanized through wires. Can I salvage the hook hangers?

Nathan, I get it. That's a great idea. I wonder if it'll work with a frog hook and if so, how would you keep the frog hooks turned up? Jmarsh, Are you going to use anything for a weed guard on the hooks?

Thanks Mark! I'm going to use it for twisted eyes so the ends will be inside the lure anyway. I sure wish I hadn't spent the $$ for the stainless steel I found at a welding supply store. It's too brittle and hard to work with. I hope another newbie reads this and doesn't make the same mistake.

BobP, I really appreciate the advise. I twisted up some homemade screw eyes last night and installed them. Worked like a charm and the best part is you can make them as long or short as you need.

I searched the forums and didn't find any information on galvanized wire. I have some welding wire that just doesn't do the trick and I found a spool of galvanized steel wire that may work. Any thoughts on using galvanized steel for freshwater fishing lures? Thanks in advance!

Jmarsh, Here's my concern with this style, is there enough room between the body of the lure and the hook points for a good hook up? I went to the 4/0 hook size and moved it to the top of the lure in my latest version so I would have maximum clearance. I don't have any idea if it'll work but that's half the fun! Nice carving by the way!

At the risk of hijacking this thread I have a question maybe you can answer. Do you think if I just made an eye out of wire and used upholstery thread to close the hoop etc and inserted into a poplar bait (with epoxy) it would hold or do I need to use a threaded screw eye? Granted I would insert about 3/4 to 1 inch of "tag end" into the drilled hole in the bait. I'm fishing for LMBs up north and do run into an occasional Northern.

Hey Jmarsh, I cut out a groove like you did using a dremel, ran a wire through the bait and wrapped it through the frog hook eye and epoxied the whole mess. Seems pretty secure to me. I did think about putting a screw w/ a washer down through the hook eye but I didn't have much room. I did position the frog hook so it angled up a bit so when the frog sits butt down in the water, the hook would be in a good position for hooking up.

Here's the one I'm building. I'm thinking about tying a wire to the hook shaft for a weed guard. May not need to though. I've weighted the back so it will sit butt down in the water.

I got ya now. hmmm. I think it would be good if the hooks could slide backwads as well so the hooks could get "free" from the body of the bait. Now we're getting complicated I know bass often inhale their prey so I wonder if there would be enough pressure to compress the spring? I like the magnet idea but then the back of the bait would need to be "skinny" so when the hooks came free there would be enough gap for a good hook set.

Mark, I'm intrigued but I'm not understanding how the hooks would "activate" when bit?

I'm with you Rob. I just traced out a Koppers 65 and I'm going to attempt to copy the basic shape using poplar. I'm thinking about attaching a 4/0 frog hook to the top/back and putting on fiber weed guards. I figure I'll add weight in the back so when stopped the hooks will be at the right angle for a positive hook set. Not sure if I'm going to have a popper front end or not. Paint will be basic Leopard frog.

I like firetiger with an orange belly or shad with a white belly. But in some cases, black is the best. Funny how we all focus on the rest of the bait when the belly color and the action is what's important. Here's a quick pic of one I just painted.

I just picked up some balsa at Hobby Lobby and had no idea it was that light. Since I run into Northerns all the time when bass fishing up in MN, I won't use Balsa. It just doesn't make sense. If I want to blow money and waste time, I'll go to the bar.

I'm just curious, if you sealed the balsa with superglue would it gain enough toughness to stand up to a Muskie? Also, if you put a dowel through the balsa bait length wise, couldn't you in theory seat your belly hook hanger into the dowel as well?

I know I've read other posts that have addressed this issue and I think the cure was to make sure to wait at least 2 hours between dips?

I did say don't ask.... But if the veil makes a really cool scale pattern......I'm with Matt just do it and worry about it later. Maybe you can cut it up so it looks like a mouse nibbled on it.

Jerry, If your talking about using dynamite in water, I can teach you a thing or two!

Don't ask your wife if you can cut up her wedding veil.........

Here are some things I've learned from reading lots of posts: Top Coating D2T sets up fast (can be an issue) and can be found at Ace (needs to be turned when curing). Etex is forgiving but may react to humidity and needs to be turned when curing DN has storage challenges but seems to have a loyal fan base GST circumvents the mixing variable but takes longer to cure Don't use the 5 minute epoxy for topcoating, there's just not enough working time. It's fine to use this for setting hardware. Painting Buy a good quality gravity fed brush. Take your time Don't try and use non air brush paints in your airbrush....it sucks. Clean clean clean. Think about it, we are measuring the tip in fractions of millimeters here people. You shouldn't be surprised when it clogs. Heck, my toilet clogs from time to time..... Have a plan, base coats have drastic effects on the color you paint over them. Run some heat on each layer before you move on, especially if you use GST for a topcoat. Look around your local craft store for scaling material. Once I started this crazy hobby a couple weeks ago, everything is scaling material. Lure Materials Some folks sure love PVC and AZEK seems to be the favorite brand. The advantages are fewer steps and tank testing is doable right after drilling ballast holes. Balsa is very buoyant but week. through wire is a must, sealing w/ superglue helps with strength. Poplar is pretty darn buoyant as well and is readily available in the big box stores. Use stainless steel wire (guages seem to be a preference here) and get it at your local welding store or at McMasters (sp) online. There are many places on the internet to buy eye screws. No need to ask, just Google away. Crank lips seem to occupy the minds of the forum folks. I'm glad I'm going to focus on top water lures. People There are some damn intelligent people in the forums. I sure appreciate learning from your trials and errors. In my humble opinion,forums like this one is the best use of the crazy interweb. One final thought, if you're new, please search for an existing thread before you ask the same question that has been asked and answered. I know it's easier to just ask but this whole lure making deal is about the journey! Note: I believe you have to sign up to use the search function. So sign up already!