HAWGFAN

Just use a circle template. For a few dollars you'll have every size you'll ever need. The holes will be close together, so blind the nearby ones with masking tape to protect from overspray. I use one similar to this: http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/c-thru-small-circle-template-198358/

Just spoke with Balsa USA. Nice people, and very helpful. The prices look competitive. There is a 25% surcharge for hand select, and shipping is $15 for orders up to $100. They said the sizes I buy should be cut from the density I want to begin with, so probably no need to specify hand select. Not to hijack this thread, but they also sell a 30 min epoxy that might be worth experimenting with, and a selection of CA glues.

I use Tower Hobbies http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0097p?FVSEARCH=BALSA+++&CATEGORY=RC&MANUFACTURER=TOW&submit=Submit+AdvancedSearch

Is that the pattern you're starting with, or the pattern you're trying to copy? Transparent paints will allow your hologram to show through. Your paints will be more transparent, thus making this process more forgiving, if you reduce them. I also use more pressure, and hold my airbrush farther from the bait when trying to keep my paint more transparent. For me that's 50 psi versus 30. Just slowly build your color, heat setting often, until it's at the level you desire.

Thought about it and had customers ask about them, but haven't attempted it yet. I'm not sure if i'd rather try carving one, or modify a minnow bodied plastic bait.

I honestly haven't done a true comparison, but I'd say very little. Some guys claim the CB has better action. I'm assuming because it's lighter. Most of my baits are pretty extreme on wobble to begin with, so I really don't notice a difference. I rarely get to fish waters clear enough to see them swimming either. It's probably like everything else in this game. There is probably a scenario where it matters, and if I say it doesn't, I'll be promptly blasted on here. For the baits I make, any difference seems to be negligible.

Thanks Mark. It performed as good as it looks for a while. I found out the hard way that the rocks in my home lake really love circuit board. After 8 hours the bill had almost ground down to the line tie. I use Lexan now for myself, but still offer the circuit board as an option to customers.

I do mine with the overspray toward the head, and the bass don't seem to mind. I added a pic to my gallery that you can look at. I've seen it done both ways.

You may find that a hair dryer is a little more forgiving for heat setting paints. The heat gun can cure the paint too fast, causing it to bubble. It also can cause plastic baits to crack. I've experienced both issues. I'm not saying you can't use it, but just take it slow.

They contacted me about setting up a store on their site. Basically, if you sell an item, they make a small commission. If I remember correctly, you list items for free. It sounded like a pretty good deal, but I haven't tried it yet. My regular customers keep me about as busy as I want to be. I think it could be a good way to get exposure for your products. If I ever hit a slow time on sales, I may post a few. The guys that run it seem very helpful and informative. I'm sure they'd be happy to answer any questions you'd have.

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Your 30 min epoxy won't be wasted. You'll use it for the top coat. 5 min will yellow as a top coat, so only use it for assembly steps.

Iwata Neo CN, .35mm tip

I only use prop as a sealer for balsa baits. I know some have figured it out for a top coat, but not me, so I can't comment on it for that use. From what I know about it from my experience, I think there are far better choices for a top coat.

I've never had any issues. It does contain an acrylic that drys to a hard shine. I flush with water, then airbrush cleaner between colors, and have never noticed a buildup. I've heard of guys shooting it straight, as a type of pre clear coat. I believe this was to protect certain designs, signatures, etc. from attack by certain top coats. I've never tried it without paint added. I don't believe it drys very fast at room temperatures. It does respond very well to a hair dryer. Adhesion is even better if you'll warm up your bait before you spray.

I agree. I've used it and it's a good quality lure. It walks very easily and I like the type of rattles it has. The hole in it's side adds a cool popping sound when you walk it aggressively. It's a large bait, but if you have the right rod you can launch them almost into orbit.

If you're going to experiment with cups and forks, learn your recycle codes. Polystyrene is the only material that you'll be able to easily dissolve. In clear cups, it's not nearly as common PET, but it is out there. From what I understand, the polystyrene used in forks can be too brittle, and will crack. CD cases are another common use for polystyrene, but again, I'd be cautious about it splitting. I use the prop that's available in several quantities on eBay. It has it's advantages and disadvantages like everything else. I like it for my bass baits, but other products have their selling points as well.

OsageJoe, here's my 2 cents on thinning and reducing Createx paints, for what it's worth. Water will definitely thin your paint. It makes a very poor reducer, in my opinion. The problem is that you start to lose adhesion very quickly. I've experimented with water, and have always been disappointed with the results. You'll be much better served using a product with some viscosity. This way, you can thin the paint, prevent tip dry, and add transparency without making the paint too runny. Createx transparent or illustration base should give you good results. I exclusively use Pledge Floor Care Finish. It sounds crazy, but I'm not alone. The stuff sprays really nicely, mixed with paint in any ratio I've tried. Add a drop or two to thin, or as much as you want to reduce. It's also only around $8 for a bottle that will last for years. Many times my mixture is probably only around 10 percent paint, when I need a very transparent color. It helps with tip dry, makes your paints cure better, and even has pleasant odor.

Have you had any curing issues? I'm with the other guys on this. I see no need to speed it up. Provided you get the ratios correct, and mix well, D2T is pretty fast. It really only needs to turn on the wheel for an hour or so before it's set and won't sag. If the results we've mentioned aren't what you're seeing, the issue isn't in the epoxy itself. I'm sure you had a reason to ask the question. With a little more info we might be able to provide more help.

I think the best, and possibly only source for Dick Nite is direct from them. I think this is the stuff. I'm sure somebody can confirm this. http://www.dicknite.com/s81.htm

If you finish it with a heavy coat of D2T, it'll level most, if not all of the buildup.

When you say "avoid a sharp edge", do you mean a clean, well-defined line, or are you concerned about the height of the buildup?

You can talk to a machine shop in your area about making a punch. I'm not aware of any that are made for sell. This would more than likely be a custom item, made just for you. Like wchilton said, you may find that the cost is more than you're willing to bite off. Go with Mark's idea of cutting and sanding, or buy commercially available lips. 1/16" Lexan and circuit board can be cut fairly easy with a good pair of heavy scissors. As for clear coat on factory baits, I'd suspect a urethane of some type is fairly typical. Many on this site use Dick Nite.

Even if you have a durable paint, it's not a bad idea to seal around the line tie and hook hangers. Some baits can leak in these areas. I'm not familiar with musky lures. Some of these may be cast from solid resin and leakage doesn't apply.