Jaw

I believe there was a post about using a womans hair flat iron to heat and bend bills of this and similar types awhile back

Hobby stores have thin superglue that you can brush on. This is what I use. I usually do multiple coats but not sure it's needed

I tried them out when they first came out and had a hard time maintaining depth. They just seemed to want to come straight to the top no matter how slow I fished them. I'll stick with my chatterbaits.

Thanks mark. The chatterbait idea is what I had in mind

What diameter string are u guys using.

Just fyi I recently took the topcoat (alumni-uv) off of a lure body I wasn't happy with. This lure has been sitting on a shelf in my shop for at least 6 mths and when I chipped the topcoat there was an immediate chemical smell released. The smell is the same smell you have when your applying the alumiuv before curing it. I have used both solarex and the alumiuv product and IMO you get a better product with solarex. I have a post or two on here describing my disappointment s with the alumiuv product.

Would a food dehydrator work? I haven't seen one in years but curious about the practicality of using one

Yep can't beat them well worth the $

Remember the main reason we have workers comp/ disability and many of the other benifits companies provide or are mandated to pay is that someone bled for them and families suffered hardships because of non covered injuries. Companies in general do not volunteer to give anything away. It's taken labor movements and legislation to get it this way. Not debating or arguing I just felt compelled to voice my opinion

It was a last ditch effort and I really wasn't concerned about the damage. The brush was junk from the start. It wouldn't shoot anything thicker than water at best

I left the neo I was trying to make work in a bowl of acetone because even after cleaning it, it acted plugged. I forgot it in the bowl, when I went back to it the orings were jelly. I assumed it had to be from the acetone. Never did get that brush to shoot paint even when it was new, but I wouldn't give up on it. I had two new brushes but still found myself trying to make that thing work

Thanks guys. I read about it some last winter but I guess I was a little confused or thought I had the wrong stuff/article. Most of the things I read just refered to using it. I got a little impatient and gave up went back to superglue. Not sure how many cheap reading glasses I can come up with seems the friends/ coworkers I have loose them before they break them. I would guess if you use the plastic / solo type cups you would want the clear ones, not sure if the red coloring would affect it but I would not be using it as a clearcoat, probably just a sealer. Not sure yet

I've looked and used the search engine and finally gave up last winter but a recent post made me curious again. So what is prop and how/ where do I make it or get it. I usually use superglue but was wanting to try this as a sealer just for curiousitys sake

Watched an Iwata airbrush cleaning video a while back and fingernail polish remover was what the Iwata guy used. Do not leave your airbrush to soak in acetone unless your sure the orings will not deteriorate learned this the hard way when I forgot mine for about 3 days

Yep cane stick from big bite. I bought the ones I have at gander

If you can get a gravity fed airbrush in that kit instead of the siphon fed brush that's shown in the picture I think it would work better

Ok I'm not that familiar with the pouring temps of soft plastics but I understand now that you are heating the plastic to a desired temp higher than what you pour. I work with a lot of different pid controllers and they all have different quirks glad you found a model that is easy to autotune

I assume it's to disappate heat so the ambient temp around the sensor drops quicker instead of slowly cooling down but I may be wrong

As for the thermowell it's just a solid tube that the k (type k thermocouple) could be threaded into and usually gives more of a uniform temp reading without directly contacting the substance (plastic) being monitored. I only asked because I'm not sure how thick the bottom of the pouring pot is and this also could eliminate the need for the holes around the sensor

Ok I misunderstood I thought his controller was overshooting his disired temp and it was taking seven min to get back to a decent pouring temp. Seven minutes doesn't sound like much until you have to repeat it over and over. Sorry Mark after I posted that it came to me that maybe camrynekai May not be familiar with what I was referring to and was only following directions that came with the controller but I decided to leave the post just in case it could help. P. I. D. Controllers P stands for proportional (basically the amount of correctional action that the controller will take to correct a process variance) I stands for intergral or reset (usually expressed in minutes per repeat or repeats per minute that the corrective action will be applied) D stands for derivative ( acts kind of like electronic esp where the controller tries to predict a process upset based on the actions the controller has taken in the past)

Are you programming the controller as a pi or a pid controller? Derivative in the controller could be causing your 7min temp overshoot by anticipating a process upset that happened during the initialization of the first run I've always had better results when I eliminate the derivative control and just use proportional and integral(reset) but just a suggestion. Also is there room to install a thermowell to place the thermocouple in or is the bottom of the pot to shallow. Just curious might be a project I'm interested in trying in the future

Prismacolor markers are what I and many others use although it's been awhile since I visited my tying bench