Jaw

Superglue for sealing before you paint and epoxy for the clearcoat after painting good luck

I use both methods but for basic scale patterns the hoop method is easier and less of a hassle than messing with the clips in my opinion

I know superglue penatrates the wood and dries fast not sure about the fingernail polish but the superglue also seems to make the blank harder and more durable it would be my choice

I didn't have time to view your links but just so you know I have used the chrome vinyl wrap a it will work if you can get it to lay down smooth I haven't given up yet just been limited on my time lately but I had a problem with epoxy on it not releasing the air bubbles hope you have better luck

I've made a lot of a rigs and have used the premade harnesses also but I prefer 325 lb or225 lb stainless wire that you can order from all the usual places I believe the 325lb wire is.041 but it's been awhile . When you use this wire you are not limited on the mold you use you can just about make it fit any mold . I use my spinnerbait mold or the do it a rig mold and I also have the boss mold but I do prefer boss harnesses for their molds although you can also use the wire for their molds also

I just gave away a bunch of warts two weeks ago that I've had for any ten years didn't know they were so popular I never fished them much still have a few though

Yes even after I cleaned all the soft plastic off and cleaned it with da it seems to get soft again I cleaned it up real good last night and will check it later tday but if it's soft again I think it's trash it has the hinged bottom hook so it don't believe epoxy will be an option but maybe thanks for your thoughts

I have a sebile dc crank that has had a reaction with somthing it touched so I was going to sand and repaint it but the plastic has softend does anyone know how to nuetralize this

Haven't done many blades but with the epoxy you will have to rotate the blade to get a good smooth overall coverage because it is selfleveling and will sag if you don't etex will do the same ask in the wire baits forum they will have more info

I made a lot of these jigs lAst year and simply drilled holes in the head at the angle I wanted I made these jigs with double hooks also I posted a few pics in the gallery awhile back

Try cutting to length 3/16 brass rod you can get it at home improvement stores for a good price and drill it out if you want your wire to pass through

I have the same compressor and it works fine for airbrushing I have a condensate trap at the end of a six foot airline that is connected to a regulator I have mounted to my workbench and also an inline condensate trap at my airbrush may be overkill but I had the material so I used it the compressor you have is actually a portercable which is a good brand about 100-$120 rig at Lowe's the last time I looked

Thanks Dave I really do appreciate all the help and advice from everyone

Well I got to test the green crank in the pond today and after trimming a little over 1/4" off the bill it totally changed the action and the bait dove well the wiggle action is a little tighter than I wanted but figure I should have tapered the body a little more I actually caught about a1&1/2 lb bass on my fourth or fifth cast it still dives to at least 5 ft was dragging bottom in the four ft water I was throwing it in its more like a squarebill now but I consider it a success next I will alter the white one a little more I didn't take off as much on it so it still needs work thanks again for the help and ideas

Thank all of you guys for taking the time to share your information and expertise I am a novice when it comes to constructing crankbaits but I am enjoying the experience I have been making different flys jigs and wire baits for years now so the bug had already bitten me before now but I do enjoy the whole process I have made a few cranks and jerk baits that I am pleased with and I've made modifications to the ones in the pictures but haven't had time to test in the pond I don't have much hope that they are salvageable but maybe? Hope to have time to test tmrw but I won't spend to much time on them after that time to make a few more looking for some circuit board material to cut my own bills from used premade lexan on these think I should have made my own not real happy with the thickness of these I've made my own in the past out of thinner material but the bills on these lures would have been fine I believe if I would have extended the tow point farther up the bill and through it if that makes since still like the circuit board material better though just a cleaner look to me

Just got to watch your video diemai I have done a little work on one of the baits but haven't gotten to test it yet I will let everyone know how it turns out. After watching your video and reading the comments it's obvious that my line tie is to far back so I'm getting to much surface area of the bill affected to overcome on the initial dive the lure just noses down and plows water don't know why I didn't think of this before building I guess it's because I have been making shallower diving flat sided baits using circuit board lips they have good swimming action I'm pleased with them but I know I've got alot to learn but it's fun to figure it out thanks for the help

Have done some 1/4oz but usually 3/8 and 1/2oz nothing smaller never tried 1/8 or 1/16 before did a lot of bass swim jigs and old arkie jigs last time been about 6 months ago

Thanks guys I will try trimming the bill down gradually and see how it goes worst case scenario they don't swim any better than they do now

I have used the chrome and red and blue powder paint they have I just apply the base and immediately apply the color I want to show in the break up don't put it on to thick just a quick swirl you will have to experiment with what works best for you then bake the jig works for me

I recently made three crankbaits with the same weight placement and the same bill but only one of the three had a good swimming action unfortunately in got hung up and broke off the other two just want to plow water and not dive they all were made of basswood with basically the same angle on the bill with only a few changes in the body shape and the same length any ideas on how to get a more consistent product and is there any way to change the two that I have left or do I just chalk it up as a learning experience. Here are the pics of the two I have left

I use a knitting hoop you get at fabric stores to hold my scaling material and when the material is new I have the scratching issue sometimes if I don't pull the lure straight down even after heatsetting I've found that if i shoot some paint through the material and heatset it first I don't have this problem I think it coats the edges of the scaling making a smoother edge