Jaw

Is there any other manufacturers that has a system like theirs where you get the paint separation (not sure what to call it) where you apply the black base then a collor like chrome?

Well Mark has posted alot about solarez so maybe he will chime in with some ideas. I haven't had any issues with it but if I can help I will. Just let me know

CS seal coat is paint stripper in my opinion have not had very much success with it myself. I do use it on some cork poppers I make but in thin coats with long drying times between coats. These are poppers for fly fishing and I don't mind a little color bleed on them

Not sure why your solarez is still tacky after 20min I haven't had this to happen. I do shake my can up before I open it because I had read about the wax Bob referred to. I would guess that the coldest temp I have used it in would be around 40 degrees while my shop warmed up. I have two different uv lights that I use and it cures fine in both so not sure if your light would be an issue.

I just place the lure in my light for three cycles. My light times out in one minute cycles (give or take ) so I just reset it three times. When I first place the lure in the light I rotate it for the first cycle. If I am going to put the lure in the sun I do one cycle in the light then hang it outside. I also rotate the lure on my Turner for awhile to level out before I start this process.

I've got a friend that has a glass shop. He says the resin is around $40 an ounce

looks great got me to thinking about closing in a space in my shop to make it easier to heat and cool

welcome back

welcome willie I don't check this part of the forum much so didn't notice this until today. hope you enjoy the place I know I have since I joined

You will probably have to get an inside thread gauge to measure the thread count and a micrometer or dial caliper to measure the size of the nozzle figure out if the threads are tapered then hope to find a tap that size. If the threads are brass they may be unrepairable. Maybe Iwata could give you the specs. I would contact them first. Sorry but I don't have any others suggestions good luck

Thanks guys still practicing

Thanks I will hunt more videos today haven't looked in awhile

How do you guys paint your fins to get that realistic see through fin look I see so often. I just can't seem yo get it right any pointers or videos you could recommended would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for any help you can give

I dumped mine. The eclipse in my opinion is the way to go. I have it also. I would have to say that I am considering the paasche Vl for its versatility also.

You can also clean your airbrush with fingernail polish remover it is basically thinned down acetone. I watched an iwata video showing how to clean your brush a few years ago and this is what they used then flush your brush with warm water. Like Gino stated above if you leave your brushes orings exposed to straight acetone long enough it will disintegrate them. I made this mistake myself when I forgot a brush I had soaking in it lesson learned

Stick with the1:1 ratio when reducing your paint or a little thinner in my experience. I would be careful using a q- tip around your needle because they will shed fiber and cause problems. I use the super lube if I feel my trigger is stiff and when I clean the brush completely I put a drop or two on a clean rag and run it down my needle. Before you get to frustrated I would suggest trying some of the medea com-art airbrush paint it is the closest thing to (ready to shoot paint) that I have found and I use it on a lot of my baits. I do not reduce this paint at all just multiple thin coats and it will give you a chance to get practice in and still get results while you are working out your paint reducing and thinning skills. Just a suggestion and there are multiple how to videos on you tube to check out I still watch to try and pick up new tips and tricks

Results were so ,so still not satisfied yet

Thanks I'll look around this week. The bottle in my pic has been in my shop for three years.I never used any of it,really forgot about it glad I didn't shoot any of it now may have been a mess. I thought I grabbed the right stuff but when I got it out of my cabinet and reread the label it wasn't what I remembered so I thought I would check. Guess I will donate it to the cleaning closet

Thanks Ben

Is this the pledge product you guys are referring to

You can also use koolaid to dye your tails although I just started buying predyed tails to get away from the mess. I used to tie crappie jigs a lot and one of my favorite material to use was cow tail ( Kip tail) and squirrell tail. You can also get a lot of tying material during clearance sales of Christmas decorations such as tinsel plus different foam material from craft stores or foam dowel rods from hardware stores even earplugs. Not sure you can incorporate some of this material in your bass jigs but Atleast you will have some ideas

The 30 min epoxy hobby lobby carries is extreme power I believe. I use it and Bob Smith which is also carried by the hobby lobby here now. I seem to get more air bubbles with the extreme power and have to work on it more to get acceptable results but if I slow down and work it with a microtorch it works but I like the Bob Smith better. I usually mix in a little denatured alcohol and make sure my shop is heated up enough to cure it properly and I'm good. It may be my imagination but to me it seems I get my air bubble problems when I don't put my lures in a heat box to cure out for awhile. Still haven't mastered it but my results are far better with heat.