SLT785

Here is a link to YouTube video, it's from Derek Blaze, "The Pondbuster". His webpage is www.pondbuster.com

Reply from Solarez: Gary Fisher; Hi 1) it is advisable to gently stir the resin before using (especially glosss resin or sanding resin that has "surfacing agent" in it) 2) humidity does not affect most Solarez products

Most people I've watched or read used .020 PETG. I watched one video where the guy cut out his box using a CNC machine, the top was a frame which held the PETG securely in place. He heated his plastic in the frame laying on an old electric skillet till it sagged. I've heard of using picture frames also.

I sent an email to Solarez asking about humidity effecting the application. You can thin Solarez by heating it up, not by using acetone or denatured alcohol. There is a tech data link on each products webpage and a FAQ Page. Check the website before trying it.

I don't think polyurethane would hold up considering what you put a fishing lure through. I prefer E-tex or CSI Products seal coat, which is also available in a UV coating. http://www.csipaint.com/products/liquid-coatings/epoxy-top-coat-lure-jig-paint.php

Forgot to mention I mix my paint in @2 oz. bottles I buy at a craft store for 50 cents each.

Bone in the professional world is a light tan. A little too much for me. My bone recipe is using C-Tex transparent base, thinning it with a water/pledge mix. Then I add 1 drop of yellow and 6 drops of C-Tex sand.

Your so right, Big Bass Man, Solar Fall knows his stuff. Another I like is Sybe Mellema.

Sorry for the double post, don't know what happened.

Found this website that uses the CMYK format (Cyan,Magenta,Yellow and Black). Mixed up a rootbeer color using one of the goldenrod formulas then added a few drops of tangerine. Yeah, I know, wish there was just one rootbeer color we could mix instead of the many out there. http://www.color-chart.org/cmyk-color-chart.php

Found this website that uses the CMYK format (Cyan,Magenta,Yellow and Black). Mixed up a rootbeer color using one of the goldenrod formulas then added a few drops of tangerine. Yeah, I know, wish there was just one rootbeer color we could mix instead of the many out there. http://www.color-chart.org/cmyk-color-chart.php

Have you ever used powder paint. This stuff might work for you. http://lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Powder-Paint/Pro-Flake-Powder-Glitter-Coat-1-5oz.html

From the tech data link on Solarez Clear Casting Uv Resin webpage: A low exotherm, low shrinkage, crystal clear, orthopthalic polyester resin that is ultraviolet curable or MEKP catalyst cured or both.

Take a stroll thru your local craft store, I bought some holographic foil paper. Used a hollow hole punch from Harbor Freight to punch out different sizes. Then you can use the back end of a drill bit to dot the eye. Then finish with a dab of epoxy over the whole eye.

Do a search on YouTube. They have a few videos.

The "Fishwhittler" has a picture of a Cellmate lure in the gallery. If you contact him he might share some info.

One other suggestion, get some white card stock or other paintable paper. Then mark it off into sections and paint different shades of gray to black, but leaving one section white. Then test your color over that.

On Createx website, there color charts shows their paint colors overtop white and black base coats. It definitely makes a big difference on your topcoat.

Just guessing: Lucky Craft LV 500

I use the bathroom size Dixie cups, for stirring sticks, after using plastic disposable paint brushes from Wally's, I cut a few inches of the handle off. Haven't had any problems yet, will look out for the "chalk".

Has anybody tried using "Miniature Barrel Hinges" in there swimbait. Here is a link to one example. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/06R91/Miniature-Barrel-Hinge.aspx?MobileOptOut=1

Great job. I tried one using screw eyes, didn't like it. How did you do yours if you don't mine me asking.

You might try this website, might be what your looking for. http://www.alumilite.com/store/pg/48-Dyes.aspx

From Alumilite's FAQ about casting: Yes! We recommend lacquers or acrylics but you may also use synthetics or enamels. A lacquer primer may be needed to assure the long tem effectiveness of the paint. You may wish to paint your silicone mold before casting Alumilite. Paint the mold with a fast drying acrylic or clear coat. Once it is completely dry, cast your piece. When you demold the part you will pull out a painted piece. Alumilite will chemically bond to the dried paint. The other option is to paint the part as soon as it comes out of the mold while the resin is still curing to allow the curing resin to crosslink with the paint.

For all DIY'ers, check this site. http://www.openbuilds.com