aulrich

Reasonably shiny with the powder I have, but that was the first color I tried and it was on bare lead, so I think there is room for improvement. from a procedure point of view. Eastwood Chrome powder looks very interesting. I stuck my nose in on Cadman's site and I guess I will have to add a pound of clear to the list , I know there are some multi color pearl powders that should work great .

Thanks I will, I do have the "shipping to Canada" complication but powder should not be an issue. I am thinking that I will only really need big volumes of white , chrome and maybe black. The idea is that I would do a base coat, then a highlight or powder, tape or the vinyl

For a fun of it I got a sample pack of heat transfer vinyl though I think I would still like some sort of undercoat even with those.

Up till now I had not had lots of luck with a fluid bed , and until I found the automotive powder suppliers filling a tall fluid bed was out of the question cost wise.

How hot do you get the spoons before you air brush them.

The smallest is 3/4" long, the longest 4.5", but the big ones are for the odd times I make it to salt water. I would be decently please developing a system for 3/4 to 3" my more normal sizes.

I am starting to play with powder coating jigging spoons , I am having difficulty getting a smooth consistent coverage. I think in general a fluid bed might be out of the question just because of the size. The lure are fairly long. The closest I have been able to get is doing this. Heat a batch (4-5) to 150 Using a dry paint brush tap paint onto the jig Hang and bake as a batch I am guessing the standard rule 2 light coats are better than one heavy, if so how do you deal with multiple coats. I have a powder airbrush (once I get a converter so I can attach it to the compressor) should I have the jigs hot enough that the pain starts to melt on contact. For reference I am powder coating the do-it flutter jig ¼-1, shad ¾-1.5 , 4 oz and 6 oz shad

Another variant on that method (credit Hand Made Fisherman). make a container with a long spout. 1. fill it with water until the water spills out the spout. 2. dip the lure and capture the over spill in a previously weighed small container 3. determine the weight of the displaced water .

Automotive paint suppliers have pearl powders, glitters to.

Aren't eye shadows mica powders?, if it helps I source my pearl powders from a local art store

Possibly an automotive supplier like Eastwood, but I have not looked

Maybe it's because I fish for pike, because I almost never have to worry about a good lure lasting long enough to fade, it's either lost or chewed to bits.

I have just been playing with uv blast for soft plastic mixed in with my e-tex top coat. The initial results seem good.

What about putting the glow/UV and dipping the bait in a top coat of clear

I don’t use plastics for pike much, mostly due to a baits getting destroyed in as little as one fish (little pike, sub 24” are the worst). But they do work and work well, a commercial lure I like are the storm wildeye pike or perch. But I will probably be expanding my use over the next year, specifically to get some pike sized weedless presentations, I am starting to fish lakes that have more junk in them than I am use too. I bought a couple of premade molds from LPO IIRC the 5” swimbait and a 4” paddle tail but that was a few years ago but anything with a decently thick profile should work. I might add a saltwater sized fluke for that weedless idea. In most of the water I fish in, wire leaders are best, I have come to really like titanium I have gotten a full season out of one and it will likely go another, where as steel I can hardly go a day without having one get kinked. In clearer water or under the ice 60# fluorocarbon is normal .

As it turned out , the bigger jigs were only really useful for rockfish, the 1.5 OZ versions worked just fine for the wind, current and tides at least this year. I will go back someday jigging for salmon out of a kayak is a hoot. I do need to figure out powder coat , self etching primer, paint and topcoat does not last, but that is another thread. I'll need to learn about assist hooks rather than a plain treble.

High temp Graphite lubricant, it went on like spray paint. It was the exact same stuff I had linked above. If I had to guess Drop out is just branded graphite lube, maybe it has finer partials and if I was casting bullets where a thousands of an inch or 3 is significant then I can see the point. But cheaper and easier to get hardware store wins over (for me), a cross border internet order, for jigs.

Thought I would report back. I was able to get some 4oz poured, I did find some soft lead and mixed it in with what I had. I bought the graphite spray . I used the ladle I had but it only holds enough if I completely fill it, like scary full. Procedurally I poured with the tail down and finish horizontal. I think the graphite spray made all the difference I really like how thing pop out of the mold. and what is amazing is how durable the coating is it will last a couple of pouring sessions.

These are clamps I used , I got the plans for these and a lure rotator from plans I bought from a guy called Greg Viynal. the system works very well. Please ignore the bad turnings it was a learn as you go sort of thing. the lures were 6" and about 3.5 oz.

The drop out might be hard to source North of the border, I might be able to find graphite mold release or would any graphite spray be close enough. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/jig-a-loo-graphite-extreme-lubricant-0381502p.html I think I can find enough softer lead in short order to get me over the hump, and the mold is marked to use soft lead. I do tend to run hot.

It seems local availability is going to be a problem , so bigger ladle will be a problem, in the short term. this is what I can get in the short term, I anticipate having to bend it to get a pouring spout type arrangement https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/11-in-stainless-steel-ladle/A-p8177966e I do have a cast pot that I can pour out of. in either cast I was thinking out using the production pot to keep a supply molten pour into the ladle, camp stove to reheat, then pour. is that crazy?

Thanks for the replies, I will find a appropriate ladle.

I am having trouble pouring some baits , I have 2 do-it shad jigging spoon molds. and basically regardless of size these molds are really tricky to fill out. This is what I have Lee production pot The lead scuba diving weights (sort of hard) Fluxed with wax Molds are smoked I do have a small ladle and with the small lures they come out with a reasonable failure rate. With the big ones 4 oz and 6 oz I was not able to get a single decent pour. Do you have any hints, right now I am thinking about getting better lead and a bigger ladle

That looks awsome, I love the spoons, I have yet to find a blank that I like , where did you get yours. The two bread and butter spoons for me are Len Thompson or Mepps Cyclops. That 100$ can of activator is a bit of a barrier for my general cheapness, though I did see a youtube where a guy blended his own a Kiwi who could not source locally