aulrich

For round 2 I think I will try testors enamel , it was another paint beside spray paint that came up a few times. A local hobby shop has a florescent kit for reasonably cheap, and if it does not work I can at least dip some jig heads.

Oh, I have used the "it's for fishing lures" thing before. At the time I was on a hunt for a 3/8" hole punch for punching disks out of aluminum cans. The ladies at the scrap booking store had a good laugh when they figured out I was looking for something and not just picking up my wife from a work shop , I'm too old to be shy

Well first try was a bust, I guess it will take more than random rattle cans that I had on hand

So an odd thing rolled through my YouTube feed the other day a guy dipping a guitar body to give it a swirl paint job. so I look into it and it's called "Hydro Dipping". As with anything on the internet there seems to be a number of ways to do it. Her is one way Has anyone tried this on a lure, I could see this working in fire tiger , wonder bread, clown and maybe as a part of a makeral. There are transfer films that work this way it would be interesting to see if there was a good silver.

Welding wire is the best locally available source of wire, I use .035" mig wire for freshwater lures 1/16" tig wire for salt water, tig wire is nicer because it comes straight, but 1/16 is the thinnest tig wire I have found. I have not tried the CA glue sealer I use thinned e-tex as a sealer coat (but there are a number of ways to skin that cat ) if you are going to make a tattle with tube I would us aluminum vs brass just to save the weight. But I am not sure it’s worth the time there are many online parts supply houses. But depending on how you make your bait 1 piece or laminated building in a rattle is pretty easy. A useful tool addon is a ¼” and a 3/8” inch hole punch. Hole punched aluminum can make excellent rattle caps. In the simplest form you can drill a hole through the bait smaller than the caps size then take a forsner bit the size of the cap and make a shallow countersink on either side of the bait (think a little thicker than aluminum can). Glue on one cap add a small ball bearing , bird shot or bb. Then carefully glue on the opposite cap.

I have, but not that brand I used http://www.jacquardproducts.com/pearl-ex-pigments.html, and for the most part it worked from good to great. I did pick up a bigger jar out of the bargain bin where the grain size was too big to shoot properly, but that was the only hiccup. My favorite to use were the inference and duo powders both would react to the under coat color, the inference are white and some other color the duo with show two colors. So basically if you painted over a white background the primary color would show and at certain angles the secondary color will flash. Or if you took a white bait and shaded the back black, the primary color would transition to the secondary. I found that a small jar of pigment would tint a 2oz mix of 50/50 airbrush base/pledge about right

Watch out sometimes duds are not duds. I made some lipless rattle trap type lures last winter, after sealing I tested them and they floated , I painted them up and as it turned out they were awesome for shallow water spring pike, now if I only had taken some notes. So as long as they swim they might be worth something even if it was not the swim profile you were looking for. For sealing I like thinned e-tex followed by a full strength e-tex and as it turns out you can do it in pretty much one step, but you need a rotatory rack to use e-tex e-tex = Envirotex light

I too used a chisel at least at first and if I am working with something like balsa, but I had a variable speed dremel for decades before I was lure making, it's a great tool to have for numerous applications. But now I do most of my rough shaping with a bench disk/belt grinder fast and much easier to keep the rough shape “square” Depending on the size of the lures you do you will probably have to handle lead eventually but you can get away with just a decent sized lead ladle and either a plumbers torch or a camp stove.

Jealous of availability, customer service, shipping cost and exchange. Even though I live in the 4th largest city in Canada, local supplies are pitiful. Canadian on-line retailers seem to think responding to an order within 2 weeks is OK, though I did find a decent lure parts supplier based in Canada I had to get over their circa 1990 ordering process, at least they were snappy and a decent price. Shipping cost are in metric, double it and add thirty. And I thought we had a free trade deal. Don’t get me started on the e-bay pirates J but pay close attention to the seller rating, you want to buy from someone with a good number of ratings over a while, the newer the more likely you will be dealing with a far east counterfeiter though that depends if they have figured out they can make a profit from what you are buying

Blue/Silver is one of my standard set of colors as a Other than the blue being the last color to get washed away. The other theory is that it represents forage like whitefish/cisco very well. For myself when I am evaluating a new lure I always paint a Silver/Blue, combine that with perch and fire tiger and I can get a decent idea if the lure works for me. For me Blue/Silver seems to always out perform Black/Silver.

Another source for the tape. http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=58897&cat=2,51555&ap=2

As for wood don't forget about regular construction timbers, around where I live pine/spruce is normal and as long as the section you are using is clear of knots then you are good to go. Maple, poplar and red cedar should also be available at a typical DIY shop (at least in North America). Though I have not done it my father had an arrangement with a local woodworking shop where he could pick through their scrap pile. Lots of time you can see wooden pallets as well pull some nails and you are good to go. But nothing beats a specialty wood shop 10 min from your house A local tool shop has a deal on a table top lathe and basic tools, so I am wondering if I incur the wrath of SWMBO or just try and sneak it into the garage we just started to talk about this years Mexico trip and I need some poppers

The most I have thinned Etex is 50% so 1 part resin,1 part hardener, 1part denatured. Like Mark says mix well then thin, the first time I attempted it I mixed them all at once, it took 3 days to cure. It takes a bit longer to get to full hard as well, but I have not noticed a delay in the initial set time. I use the thinned version as the first hardening/sealer coat but one time I did use it as a top coat, When I realized I had more baits than top coat. As a side note thinned etex makes sharpie tiger stripes run.

There are a couple of ways to get olive one I have just recently tried was yellow and black, when I first ran into that combo I was just a bit skeptical. So much so I just mixed up a decent batch (using blue yellow red IIRC) that has lasted me a few years. But I have been in an experimental mood lately and gave it a try on a pike lure. It worked, it’s not as green as the other way but surprisingly good. So something like this could work. Black base Perl Silver (Add netting for scale, optional) Pink to taste Remove net Shade the back with transparent black go lighter than you think add a layer of transparent yellow to taste. Repeat as required. Sharpie the spots on Acrylic clear coat (pledge) Some top coats can run sharpie A less natural trout I have done I used a blue/red color shifting pearl that I had made from Art Store pearl powder and transparent base. With that I use a white base I shade the back with transparent black. When I spray the color shifting paint The paint reads pearl blue over the black and pearl red over the white. But depending on the angle of light the whole lure can flash blue. Finish with a white belly. Not a really natural look but effective in a local clear water lake where pike feed on trout.

So here is a quick picture in this context the results are no different that putting flakes into the epoxy top coat. The only advantage I can se is the ease of controlling where it goes or The ease of layering multiple colors of flake. The flake I used here is already very small and the effect is a little lost on an 8" grandma. http://www.myhostedpics.com/images/aulrich/pikeglitter.jpg Since this should work with normal automotive flake I have found a local source so there should be more to come

So , it works. it will shoot both dry and suspended in pledge. The suspended version does really well to add a bit glitter to an existing paint job. with a few coats I was able to get a decent holographic ghost base. The dry does attach to wet paint but all of a test I did was a spray of a scrap bit of timber. I actually think I need the bigger glitter, .004 is small and very subtle . I'll see if I can get some pictures.

Though I will never admit it to SWMBO I might have too many odd ball tools. After finding that previous tool, I did some looking for DIY alternatives. And I found 1 video where basically they took a siphon feed gun stuck the feed tube in a jar of flake and pulled the trigger, and flake came out. SO as a quick try I took that cheap bottom feed Airbrush I have pulled the needle and tried, nothing. Later in the evening while walking the dog the problem was stewing in the back of my mind. Then I had that "well duh!! moment. And where the comment of having too many oddball tools comes from. In the back of the garage on a shelf I have this. it's actually a handy thing. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=20048&cat=1,43456,43390 I need a gasket for it but that is easy enough. I don't know if shoot dry flake but the nozzle is huge 1/32 or 1/16 as a guess. So clear coat with flake will shoot. and since clean up is so simple even doing small batches won't waste too much paint. I'll even have to dedicate a jar to Primer white. Flo Yellow and FLo Orange. Weather is going to be crap this weekend so I should have some time to paint, with only a little time off to chase birds.

We have a winner at least for the concept, but I am way too cheap to buy one. so we will see. I am not sure subtle is possible but full on flashy sure is

Actually while I was digging I did see a mini sand blaster like you are talking about, and the control aspect I do like. Could be useful for scuffing between epoxy layers as well, I wonder if it would shoot powder paint good enough for messing with spoon blanks. If I could get away with putting a tinted epoxy down and spray how we are thinking I could live with that. But grit size might still bite me In general yes the cup volume on the HVLP guns would make it impractical. the gun I am looking at is a close quarter/touch up gun so hopefully it's not too big. But every body I make I do at least a silver/blue, silver/black and a perch so building up a batch is not out of the question. https://www.kmstools.com/vaper-hvlp-touch-up-spray-gun-10153 I also saw another air brush a top feed that came with 3 needles it did not say what the nozzle size was on the website so it's just an option but I need to see it. I think at this point I am 60/40 in favor of the air brush sand blaster over the HVPL. but grit size limitations might raise their heads.

I have a 5 gallon woodworking compressor so I should have the CFM's for light spraying.

The primary goal of this is to replace foiling a lure and maybe heat transfer tape. Why? Because this past spring just for fun I took a body gave it a coat of epoxy and coated it in glitter (think fried chicken). It worked very well but it was a PIA to do. I did get a cheap airbrush bundled with a recent compressor so I might do the nozzle trick there, but going by that article I might as well jump to a HVLP automotive sprayer. As luck the Canadian equivalent of Harbor Freight has one on sale this month

For the first try I used reduced Pledge It was all that I had on hand, I have a general phobia on running straight pledge. Yes I had added a ball bearing but it would settle out in the cup I suspect that it was the settling out that was plugging the brush. I will try straight pledge next, if that does not work, after payday go get some proper transparent airbrush medium. Another option would be clear nail polish and brushing it on.

So I just bought this. https://www.paintwithpearl.com/shop/metal-flakes/holographic-flakes-prism-flakes/silver-holographic-metal-flake/ And my first try to mix it and spray a bait did not work very well. the flake I bought is the .004" so I thought it would go through the nozzle on my airbrush (0.5 MM) and some flakes did but it did eventually plug , but I don't know if it was the flake size or just how fast it would settle out of what I was using as a medium (Pledge/reducer 60/40). I looked a automotive sprayers and from what I saw the nozzles there where 0.5 MM as well so it should shoot. So I don't know if my problem is brush, medium or both. A touchup HVLP automotive gun is not too expensive so with the right medium it could be used. There are three effects I am going for 1. A very flashy silver 2. A "shimmer coat" like a recent thread has talked about 3. a ghost holographic to use on clear pre-mades I know I can probably use epoxy to make the first though I fear the amount of layers harden/sealer base color then shimmer would make it un practical.

I had been thinking about trying TSP from the paint isle. Though mostly I just use non-ammonia cleaner. and I must admit to plain old window cleaner too but I do flush that with water.

So I finally spent some time painting, I like it! So now I have to force myself to slow down and learn to paint properly and do better than "it will catch fish".