aulrich

So here are my latest, I did figure a bit of a standard one small pearl ex powder container to 1.75 Oz of transparent air brush paint, though the Blue red was made with reduced pledge. I had to learn to do a light spray and heat set, since you see almost nothing at first but two light coats seems to be all it needs, too much paint and you loose the defined two tone and revert back to flashing two tone. Mind you the flash two tone(blur red) worked well until the leader failed. Getting a good blue silver was important to me since it is a day to day solid producer in the lakes I fish.

Hehe I have a blowing up soda bottles with dry ice story like that

Yup folks watch one episode of Breaking Bad and they think everyone with a mask on is cooking meth or melting a body

So I made my first attempt at shootable glow, I used a gel glow paint mixed 1 part paint to 4 parts transparent base(as per the recommendation of the person at the art store) . it seemed to not atomize properly but it would shoot. After three coats if you charged it up and looked at it in the dark it was very splotchy. I am thinking I either add a couple more BB’s and shake the paint for a good long time or toss this batch and with the next batch hit it first with a part or two of reducer to loosen it up first then top up to 4 to 1 with base

Thanks, that is some cool stuff , it opens up my color options

I just bought my first spoon blanks and the options I am looking at are melt on powder paints or self etching primer and airbrush acrylics and rattle can clear coat. Likely I am trying the self etching primer since it should be available locally vs ordering in

At this point I have been going by eye, but basically it is a whole small container in a 2 oz bottle. I have some more colors to try so I will start paying attention so I can get some repeatability. I figured it would work but not as good as it did. I clean up with non ammonia household cleaner , in Canada the brand is calt Fantastic. It works ok but it foams, I might just go old school painting and use water and TSP

I just made those this past weekend, what a difference. I had been using forceps while painting, and that was not so bad, but clear coating and transferring to the spinner is awful. With the new holders the bait does not come out until clear coat is done the holder mounts in the spinner.. The only problem is I need more

So I have been playing with making paint with pearl powders. These lure are painted with the same paint it is a duo purple and bronze on a white back ground the paint will mostly look purple but at different angles it will flash bronze. But on a black background the purple disappears . The lipless I made with black sides on the under coat and the minnow a black top. I have other color combinations that make a killer rainbow trout , i’ll post that one tonight. I am also playing with what media I sgould use, Pledge or real airbrush base, and oddly a mix of the two is the current leader( my base was running out so I tried to extend it ).

if you will be molding 3d eyes why not just get the powder (the stuff the soft plastics guys use), you should be able to load it up to nuclear levels in the epoxy. also the brand Smooth-on has different colors of glow powder. http://www.smooth-on.com/Urethane-Plastic-a/c5_1119_1422/index.html

Well that decides it, I have some PVC board just waiting to get wet.

So in my recent poking around I found a jerk bait pattern that used a Colorado spinner blade as a diving lip, concave forward. Has anyone tried, does it sound plausible?

What I would not give to walk the Rapala factory, I bet they have the process down. oddly the BX series sounds a lot like the "get it close and then give a heavy to coat" method.

Well I finally got back to my airbrush (basement renos suck up a surprising amount of time) , and I was able to shoot 2/3 pledge 1/3 reducer and pearl powder. and as close as I can tell it worked. Handled nice, 3 light coats gave good coverage. Base is probably still better but @ 8$/liter for the pledge I am not that motivated.

I have been using 50/50 thinned head cement

Would it microwave?

Is there a rule of thumb for matching hook size to a body. and does the depth of the body effect the required hook as well?

On youtube Paul adams Makelure Alumilite 61diemai dakotalakestakel (more for painting) solarbaits

I have only a couple of golden colors and there perl white the colors are fine a little thin for my skill level. I do really like the golden pearl way nicer to use than the create pearl paint. Most of my colors are grex they work well for me no reducing required.

Yes, the right way is transparent base, the cheap part of me, is trying to see if I can get by.

That product seems to change names as it changes countries and even still seems to rebrand regularly. I am playing with it as poor mans transparent base , to be able to shoot some cool pearl colors I have run into playing with soft plastics. I am also trying to learn how to water down solid color to transparent, straight up reducer lower viscosity too much.

I know a vacuum table is the normal method for making stencils, but I ran into this goofing around on youtube kydex would be too heavy for the stencil plastic, but I think the press they use could be a replacement for a vacuum table. Has anyone tried this?

That is cool enough to copy and if you start a bait company you can call it flatliner lures