aulrich

So rather that asking the question how do you rig a big swim bait i'll post my answer and with luck folks will rip it to shreds , Rip Away So for a while I have been shooting and fishing with the do-it 6" paddle tail. The bait is awesome but rigging has been a bit of an issue. The picture show what we have cone up with short of one improvement. we fount that attaching the wire to the lead is best done with a split ring, one reason is the steel wire will eventually get too kinked and that little drop seems to keep the wire out of the way of the action. the fish shot shows why I like the bait the bait pulls off of the pin and get out of the fish's mount so it lasts way longer. Also the hookup rate is significantly higher that an embedded jig hook. The disadvantage is the bait tangles on itself more often that we would like. One idea is to use single strand titanium wire vs steel since the tangles get worst after the wire gets beat up.

I was thinking about doing this, but now it's pretty much off of the table. I find the surface finish only turns off fishermen and not fish in the water the baits look and catch great.

One of my experiments (from my way to long todo list) is to use flat white powder paint as a primer then paint over top then either a clear powder or MCU as a top coat. I tried self etching primer and regular paint but that failed (user or system failure IDK)

OK a this point I lube once a session, looks like I should increase that. I have gotten into pre-heating , the powder paint toaster oven is awesome for that.

They bind a bit in dual mode, but by themselves they are OK , but thinking back I am not sure they have ever drawn up cleanly, when compared to my newer bait plastics injector. I am guessing just about any hi temp o-ring should work, does anyone have the actual spec's Temps are about 320.

Yes , o-rings are certainly on the hit list. Temp control ... we will see what I can do

So I finally got a second presto pot and after a couple of single color runs i tried to do a laminate. Well I got my butt kicked. Temp control is a problem more specifically matching I guess a PID is in my future. But the more basic one is that my do-it injectors just can't seem to reliably draw up plastic. I did freshly clean and oil them but for the life of me I could not get them properly draw up plastic. Any tips? recommendation for a better dual injector

Now that it's warmer I just open the garage door , but for me the problem is winter, it's hard enough getting it warm to begin with, so I am reluctant to vent all my warm air to the outside. I think for next winter I will set up a vent hood but rather than vent to outside I will run it though a carbon filter. it should filter out any sort of volatile organic. I'll probably run a face mask to at least during the winter

I didn't vote for him either i don't even think he fishes, so really how can you trust him.

Yes the volatile paints are still an issue, I have not tried to get any in a while. Regular pigments use to be the same, I think the issue was at the time was the packaging was not certified to survive going to altitude (or at least that was the excuse they gave). When it comes to regulatory stuff it's a moving target so it pays to ask the question every once in a while just in case the answer changes. Or at some point i'll just get the paint shipped to my sister in Iowa and have her bring it up when she comes to visit our folks. Alumilite plastisol is OK, i have been through a couple of gallons of the stuff, it did hold up well for big pike swimbaits , would have to try it again to do a proper Alumisol vs Dead on, my skills with plastic have improved a fair bit in the last months. DDL what sort of baits are you making

After going through my first 5 gallons of Dead-on , I won't be switching any time soon. I find it a decent value and I like working with the plastic. We will see how it handles the inside of a pike's mouth we will see in the next few weeks.

Yes, Alberta Mind you what Canada Post ships could be the issue, my cross border stuff was handled by UPS. I did by some from Canadian Vendors I forget off hand how they were shipped , One place ended up being close to 100$/Gallon the other was more reasonable but it was the do-it plastic so mehl.

Must be a Quebec thing, I have had gotten 15 gallons over 2 shipments in the last couple of months, I am assuming that the manifests were at least given a digital inspection for general legalities and such. I did pay a stupid amount for the chance to get it over the border after all (it added 25% to the total bill this last time).

Does that price include shipping? I Just got a 5 gallon of dead on IIRC $ 250 CAD total (plastic + shipping + Duty/Brokerage.)

I am Canadian so I understand at least a bit of what you are going thru , but someone here told me to contact companies directly and you may end up getting a better deal on shipping. Baitplastic is an great example , if you go to their web site they don't even ship out of the US. But I was able to get bags a vacuum chamber and an awesome injector with a couple of e-mails and a paypal invoice.

At this point I have tried 3 types Alumisol do-it and dead on. I hate the do-it, it burn easy and fumes really bad. Alumisol is OK , I would like another try at using the plastic now that my technique is better. I just got some dead on and it's awesome accidentally got it up to 425 and the plastic took it. Just started to use a degassing chamber this weekend it does make a difference, I tried degassing the dead on right out of the bucket but hardly anything came out, but after heating and mixing in the pigment and such we hit it again and lots of bubbles came up. Re-heats were always loaded with air. The bulk of what I make is for pike big swimbaits I like the plastic on the tougher side, Alumisol right out of the jug was good the regular Do-It was too soft and I have not thrown any of the Dead on Plastic yet but the tube/craw seems about the same as alumisol out of the jug but maybe a bit stiffer. And just as an FYI the Do-it 6" paddle tail is a great lure the pike go nuts for them , the mold does need a sprue extender but I would recommend a look when you jump to injection.

I have the do-it injectors and they are OK, but just yesterday I go the 8oz locking injector from BaitPlastic , it's build like a brick outhouse compared to the do-it injectors.

I have to admit, I chickened out and I just bought a locking injector and 8oz from baitplastic. That will at least help speed up the single color injection. It sure is built like a beast.

I think as long as the shape is (and i am digging back into engineering education 30 years ago) "self releasing" and you have the parting line dead center you should be OK. I suspect making a POP mold is a lot like making a green sand mold. Now if you could print that shape in a flexible filament you would have a bit of wiggle room. Depending on the prints orientation, the layer lines maybe the fly in the ointment. I am thinking a coat or two of high gloss finish but a really thin type of finish should help smooth the layer lines. just about any mold release should work after that.

That looks interesting, do two work for dual injection?

Hillbilly try looking for "industrial paint and plastics" they carry smooth-on and I have seen micro balloons at their Calgary store. And as an FYI my Niece go her laser cutter I will get to play with it on the weekend and see if I can finally cut a clean lure lip.

I just have one presto pot at this point, but it looks like they will fit over and to the bottom. I had to raise the cross bar nearly to the top.but it looks like a go. The one presto pot the boy found in a flea market has pretty straight side walls I am assuming the form factor has not changes much

OK had a bit odd thought. Why not just drill and tap a small screw m2 or m3 granted annoying if I want to take the nozzle off. But I am hoping that when you shoot from a presto pot you can keep the injector hot enough to stay liquid, sort of like how lead does not stick to the dipper once it's hot. So I guess I have a new question to tie me over until I have plastic again,. For those of you the use a presto pot do your injectors stay hot enough to purge the unused plastic between shots or are you dissembling to pull out the plugs.

Thanks guys, It makes sense to make some sort of fixture to help ensure the parts are interchangeable, though it starts to approach the "is it worth while " line. It may just be time to upgrade to a higher capacity dual injector, we are making the attempt to go semi-pro but like all startups managing costs is part of the fun. Either way I know I don't want to be fishing a nozzle out of a presto pot of plastic :). If I was made of money a shooting start or Jacobs system would be on its way but SWMBO did not release that much funding.

All I have is a drill press, so I can't quite match you procedure. But I think I will us it as a template. 1. Drill the pin hole through both. 2. Pull the nozzle and drill out the hole in the body 1/16 or 1/32 bigger 3. Mark and hand file the slot. 4. Press the pin and cut to length