jonister

Sorry for the late reply Fishnart! Yes I did use a turner, I don't have the patience to hand turn it for so long. I did notice quite a few bubbles as I stirred it for at least 5 minutes, but a propane torch got them out very well. I will note I got a little close with it a few times but it didn't burn at all. It took 12 or 13 hours to get tack free but I was not comfortable handling it for about a day still. If it stays tacky, I would add another coat, as that is what I did when I used E-tex. I have to say though, I think I will be sticking with this. I have yet to have any problems with it and it is harder than E-Tex yet still very flexible so I think it's my new go to epoxy for glide baits. Another thing, it is the nicest smelling epoxy I've ever used. It almost doesn't smell, enough so that unless I stick my nose in the cup I can't even smell it. I needed a dust free environment so I did it in my room and it didn't smell at all. I will be using it again soon so I will have those results in the next week or so. I hope it turns out as good as the last! Good to hear your thoughts on it too!

I did a short review on it. Here is the link: I think it should post the video.

I have a copic system for flies and such and have tried it on lures with not so great results. It ran pretty bad, and bled. I was on their site and for 12 pens it was 99$, which for 24 pens, you can get a decent air brush and at least your primary colors. It is nice to have though as it doesn't smell or put bad stuff in the air, (I think)

Mark, on the note of Rapala's, I use the KBS diamond topcoat on my smaller bass lures as a topcoat and sometimes as seal coat and it really gives the feel of a rapala. Just thought I'd mention that. @QuinnCB, most balsa baits will not be super strong, even with devcon or other strong epoxies. I only use balsa for bass lures simply because it is still a very soft wood no matter what you do. Pine works,but is not easy. If your just starting out I would recommend cedar. It can be very easy to work, yet be plenty strong for the bigger lures or bigger fish. Poplar is a pain and I have blisters from this last lure I made out of it. The problem I have experienced with pine is the uneven grain. Cedar is available at almost any lumber or hardware store. Good luck!

Your denting problem could be from the flex coat. Since balsa is so soft and flex coat is a softer epoxy it might be denting through. You might try a different clear coat such as Devcon 2ton epoxy, or use it as a base coat. Super glue works as a great sealant as long as I use a tough epoxy such as devcon or Solarez, both thick hard coats that make it hard to dent. Just my 2 cents, someone else might have a better suggestion.

I'm not positive, but I am pretty sure I'm getting a good cure, if I don't touch it for a while I can handle it and it feels fine, but if I hold it in my hand for a minute or so the surface blush gets sticky. This is with the polyester resin though. I tried curing with MEK and had the same thing happen so eventually I just got used to it. I emailed Solarez about this and they said it was due to the polyester stuff being meant as a base coat and the blush gave your topcoat or paint something to stick to. I will know for sure once I get some non polyester stuff to try. I have other polyester resins that smell even after curing. Only polishing will get the smell out. I think it is just one characteristic of that kind of resin.

I have no experience with the Aluma UV but I do use the solarez polyester. I meant to get the gloss but accidentally got the polyester. It is a polyester resin so it polishes nicely but don't drop it! The blush is bad and if you hold it in your hand too long it gets sticky. It is fragile stuff. I use it as a build coat now and next time will buy the gloss. I hear it is stronger with less blush. It is nice fast stuff though, I would definitely recommend it. I just use a nail light.

To me, Azek is just another material in my arsenal of woods. I like it but in some cases it isn't buoyant enough for me so I use wood. It's nice that it doesn't have grain and I don't have to worry about water intrusion but it defiantly has its place. Remember this is all for fun (at least for me) so have fun no matter what you choose and make sure it is enjoyable

Through wire and fiberglass!

I carve with lots of stuff,white pine, red cedar, regular cedar, white cedar, balsa, basswood. I'm even drying some juniper for carving. As long as you let it sit and dry for a good while, it should work great. I enjoy pine. It seems to be a little harder than cedar. I would defiantly give it a try. Good luck, and remember, it's all practice no matter what.

Come to think of it I had some before I melted it into ingots. It's good stuff. Soft and pours nice. It was in one big huge chunk/brick thing. Propane and a big steel pot is all it takes for the big ingots. I melt, and de slag at the same time. I don't think it had much slag though.

Yes they do! We use them all the time! When the bass aren't biting or when the mood hits me, I'll tie on one on a small jig head. All year, even when it's to cold to bass fish, we catch everything on them. I like them especially for the big bluegill and crappie. A couple years ago I ran out and couldn't find any but last spring I was at Cabelas and found them. Their 7$ a package and we'll worth the money! They are sold in little plastic packages like what most soft plastics are in.

Hotlips express, preferably in Firetiger Bomber fatfree shad Gold blade, white, chartruse spinner bait Red, red flake senko 1/100 oz jig tipped w/ Berkley power wigglers.