rcbv

Many different airbrushes, I like Iwata brand. SB Coat paint from Lure Works. This is a solvent based paint designed for soft plastic baits. This is important, get a good paint respirator rated for organic vapors from solvents. If you can't afford a paint booth rated for flammable materials, paint outdoors or in a well ventilated area. This type of paint is very bad for your lungs and is flammable. Don't half ass the safety precautions. Some people use water based paints and then dip in clear plastisol, I've never tried it.

I sometimes look at expired patents for ideas. It's worth learning the basics of reading a patent in order to not go crazy trying to figure out what is being protected. The patent that you referenced is a Design patent which provides protection for the visual appearance of an object. As RedRum mentioned it's the claims that matter. In this case there is a single claim that describes the bait appearance. "The ornamental design for an artificial minnow with horizontal tail, as shown and described." The other important detail is that this patent is long expired.

Did that become the Ultra Molds Big Blue injection system?

I've seen gate artifacts on big baits under the mouth, on the belly and at the tail. The reservoir will help, so will holding injection pressure but unless the mold is metal the bait is going to take a while to cool. If you can, try partially filling the mold and waiting a bit for the plastic to cool and shrink then finish filling it. It just needs to cool enough to form a thick enough skin to remove from the mold without tearing. Then drop it into a bucket of water for it to cool uniformly and not dent.

hotrunnermachines.com makes a system similar to the Jacobs machine. What do you mean by "works a little faster"?

No experience with burned plastisol but I would soak it in acetone and then try using a tooth brush or nylon scrub pad to see if the burned material is softening. If it is, then continue soaking and scrubbing. If it's really stubborn then you might have to use more aggressive mechanical abrasives like steel wool or wire brush.

Removing supports is sometimes a problem.

The dolls are painted with a pigmented silicone thinned down enough to spray. After it's sprayed the thinner evaporates and the silicone cures bonding to the silicone body. No different than what's being discussed but maybe less expensive, just a thought.

Google "painting silicone dolls", there is a bunch of information about what people use and how. Apparently there's a whole cottage industry around silicone baby dolls.

Whatever you sublimate on needs to take the heat.

I've really been tempted to get the Haimer 3D Sensor Digital, they claim .0002" accuracy and .00005 repeatability. The tool setter is fairly pricey but the claim is that you can setup 5x faster do you find that to be the case?

Did you ask the vendor to send samples shot in the mold? Before we ship a custom mold we shoot a sample and send it to the customer for approval. I understand your's isn't a custom mold but they should have sent you a sample shot from your mold after you told them you were having problems.

I was surprised to learn that Pyrex glassware sold in the USA is no longer made from Borosilicate glass but made from tempered glass.

There is some good input in this thread: http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/29917-denting-problem/?hl=dents#entry237896

Thanks cadman, now I get it. If you can't find anyone to do it for less than $2 a pin let me know and I can do it for less.