saltwater

I remember from many years ago, Xacto knife company carried a wood cornering tool. It was smaller than the ones shown. Probably the perfect size for wood bait makers and wood plugs for fiberglass molds like I make. I will now see if they still sell them..."I'll Be Bahhk"

FrogAddict, I seriously doubt that. I was rather hesitant to post the picture for fear I would be ridiculed by some of the hugely talented airbrush jockeys here on TU. I am grateful for the kind responses...so far. I am learning and fooling around now with some stencils and tricks to see how far I can go to achieve a more realistic bait. Fiberglass is a forgiving medium, the only thing I have on my side. My biggest problem comes from my wife: "Will you please stop making all that annoying rattling noise?"

Gon2long, I attach the hook hangers as the last step. They go on after the eyes. The eyes and hook hangers are placed when the lure is completely finished. They never see any paint or top coat.

Seeking 56, thanks for the tip, "Do fast strokes and blend colors while they're still wet". I thought I was alone using rattle cans, you have restored my confidence. Not everyone can afford airbrush equipment. It is the challenge that keeps me captivated.

Thanks rhersh, they are fiberglass, hollow and three inches long. I'm playing with more from the same mold, I want to see how far I can go using Rattle Can paint only. I love a challenge.

Here are 2 quick Rattle Can spray jobs. Done just for fun.

Does anyone here at TU make baits from fiberglass? I've been making my own fiberglass molds and lures for many years and I can offer tips and tricks for those who are just starting or, want to start making custom fiberglass molds and lures.

basspikeperch, no none of the afore mentioned clear enamels protect the finish of a crankbait. Epoxy and other hard shell coatings do the best job for protection. Not all crankbaits need hard shell protection. I fish in weed and obstacle free ocean water with steel leader wire, so there is little wear or tear. A quick and easy spray of enamel works fine for me. Most of the time anyway.

I prefer ACE Premium Enamel. Why? Because it has an adjustable spray nozzle. Turn for either vertical or horizontal pattern. And it is quick drying...I am impatient to a fault.

I am not a patent attorney but I have had a few patents granted to me, mostly boat related. I think, and I my be wrong, the Black Angel Jig Co. is saying they have a Copyright on the name "Trailer Enhancer".

It costs me more in time to make a lure than I could ever sell it for. I can't compete with a manucacturing corporation that can build, package and distribute a lure and sell it for $1.99. I give most of my lures to family and friends, the rest I use for the joy and satisfaction of catching fish on a lure that I made.

I had a rubber stamp custom made from an office store. Of course it works only on flat areas of the lure but I take that in to account when I am carving the original plug. I can order very small print sizes and use multiple stamps for curved areas.

Another important point, you must put a grid (like tik tac toe) behind your trolling motor prop. If not the water flow will be swirling and not a straight flowing current. See wind tunnels, starting with the Wright brothers.

Yes, cut relief lines and they will naturall overlap. Do a dry run first and the material will show you where it wants to be cut. After you start wetting it out, If you are using a disposable brush, just dab-dab-dab (using the front of the brush) the brushes fibers will mix and meld the seam away. If possible work with the tank on it's side, not up and down. It uses gravity in your favor and you won't have your head down in the fumes. Use a powerful fan to to keep your work area well, and I mean well ventilated !

I'm a fiberglass guy, a mold builder by trade. Been building everything from boats to lures with fiberglass for more than 30 years. Here are some tips: Be sure to use "wax free" resin so you will not need to sand between layers. Don't try to cover a large area, do it in small sections at a time, over lapping the previous ends. 1- Brush/roll on a hot mix of resin (not so hot it catches on fire) and let it get tacky. 2- Lay out your mat/cloth on a clean flat surface and cut relief lines where any corners or bends will be (don't cut Vs, they will create a problem). 3-Set the first layer of fiberglass on to the tacky resin (it will stay in place) and then wet it out with a regular resin mix . 4- Use mat then cloth, mat then cloth. Let the previous tacky layer help hold the next in place. I hope this helps

Newbie here, who or what is WTP?

It may sound stupid or even idiotic but, I and many others enjoy and collect silly/humorous lures. I know the creative people here at TackleUnderground can tool out some laughable baits. Just a thought for something different.

As a born and bred Floridian I have been there and done that in Florida lakes and rivers. I agree with BobP about the water vegetation and scrubs was right about using top water lures. I have great luck using surface poppers and believe it or not, I suggest you take along a hand YoYo. You will find that casting a rod, in many areas is difficult if not impossible because of trees and shoreline brush. And of course, don't stand too close to the shoreline/bank, alligators can be bold and stealthy. I'm being serious.