JRammit

good first question!.... regardless of how many times its been discussed, safety is always an important topic i dont know all the scientific info, but i do know the fumes are harmful!.... i hope to never learn of the long term affects, but i have experienced nasty headaches when my fan got bogged down from lack of cleaning...... i have basically a "cubical" on top of my bench with a duct fan plumbed down through the shop floor... it was effective for a few months, then after cleaning the blades it is back in business another, maybe better option is a box fan in a window (if you have a window)..... however you can, you need ventilation

try it with a zero.... p0p P0P P0p

its hard for me to buy a computer when we have phones and tablets that do the same things..... but they dont print so i use the 19th century template (ha ha).... using graph paper i draw half the lip, using the graph line as a center line, then fold in half and cut out... this template is glued to card stock for a permanent template, or directly to the lexan for temporary testing lips.... use cheap Elmers glue sticks, the paper will easily wash of the lexan with water if you have a computer, Ben and Dales way is surely more accurate... but ive had success this way

dont know if its the same thing, but i once tried fish oil.. cut open the gelcap pills... made the bag so sticky i couldn't open it... had to cut the baits out.. after a couple weeks those baits turned rock hard..... now i just buy scented oil from bogs

i use anchor... most of it should just peel out, get the small pieces out with a paper towel is your cup all scratched up?... perhaps from the razor blade??

i second that question... i cook mine in bursts... 45, 30, 30, 30, 20, 20, 15 (depending on amount) stirring between each burst.... thats about 3 min of cook time, but way more in real time

i use pourasol... i didnt know im not supposed to eat it (ha ha!) i make all my own molds, and each one prefers its own temp.... for most of my hand pour (1 pc) molds i pour at 300-310 depending on size.. for larger thicker body baits ill go down to 290 to avoid shrinkage.. the pourasol still pours nice for me at low temps, long as its mixed well w no clumps...... injection (2pc) molds usually run a little hotter, 320-330 i only use a microwave, so cant tell u what to expect w the burner pot.... but u should check out Larry Dalburg for the alumidust stuff... makelure . com i think

its the most (or only) misunderstood rule here and it brings attitude into a normally (most of the time) tude free environment should it be changed?... that is worthy of debate, easy to see both sides but.... i dont recall any fines being issued or any lures confiscated... so i cant understand the negativity

thought about it, but didn't think it would handle the heat since u brought it up, i had to check http://flexsealproducts.com/product/liquid/ says it can stand "over 250 degrees", but doesnt say how far over..... also says it will expand and contract with heat, so id say a no go

starting over is also an option... i know its more work, but its work applied with a higher chance of success....... on the flip side, its also more work to finish the current lure, but with a lower chance of success i speak from experience, im good at screwing stuff up (ha ha!)..... i would not like to disclose my "failure to success ratio", but ive learned so much from each failure that im almost smart by now heres a little tip... keep a pen and paper handy throughout the entire build process, write down everything you do in order and use it as a guide for your next build.... your lip slot is just one of many examples of how skipping one step can put a hex on the whole build

i think i see where youre goin w that.... i could do something similar... we catch alot of bluegill with a fly and bobber.. . maybe i put a line tie on the next boat and use it as replacement for the bobber...... now he's "trolling" for bluegill

the way you mix can dictate bubble content as well when im mixing for hook hangers, when looks dont matter, i just swirl the crap out of it.. the epoxy ends up opaque and cloudy with tons of micro bubbles but when im mixing for a topcoat, i do a "scrape and fold" mix... where i scoop up epoxy (kinda like you would with a spoon in a thick stew), then fold it back into the mix.. then scrape the mixing tray, pulling all the epoxy into a small puddle and repeat..... this makes some bubbles, but they disappear when i brush it on

i was thinking the same thing... i dig the body shape of that one!.... i don't like copy cating either, but i walk the line by copying "features"..... in the end, its still my design, with a few "added considerations" on my recent cranks, i "stole" the nose off a popular blank guys here use alot (after fishing one sent from a friend)... my body is different size and shape, so i still consider it my design.... but the nose gave me a much better action than on my previous designs in this case, im interested by the hunched back