JRammit

I dont measure, i just mix in a few drops at a time til its the consistency i want... MAKE SURE you mix the 2 parts well before adding the alcohol And yes, you brush it on.. It would not get along well with an airbrush! In my shop, D2T is like franks red hot sauce... I put that sh*t on everything!

You can even skip the powder coat.. Ive been brushing water based paints directly on worm weights, then coating with thinned epoxy (Devcon 2 ton + denatured alcohol)... Mix a little glitter in the epoxy, looks quite nice if i do say!

Would be a great tool for making leaders or walleye harnesses! But just for tying on a bait, no thanks... I could tie a palomar knot faster than i could pull that contraption out of my bag, and 9x out of 10 the line will fail before the palomar... Strong enough for me

Always wondered this myself... Figured monofilament would melt in hot plastic..... Maybe the worms are cut open, then "welded" back together

You choose your own path... I started on topwaters, then jumped into crank baits.... Still havnt built a swim bait, they scare me

Ive never built a "swimsuit" (auto correct i assume

Yes, Spike-it bond coat I have some, ive only used it to glue plastic to plastic, but its designed to glue plastic to anything Takes almost an hour to dry (will not stick until completely dry) so do several weights ahead of time

I dig your videos!... Love the use of the Dremel, up until recently thats the only tool i had... And it still gets used more than any other tool

The previous contraption has been working great!.... But ive started painting jig heads and custom matching worm weights.... 4 at a time wasn't cutting it!..... So, i came up with this Made all from scraps i had laying around, except the clothes pins, those cost me a whole $2 This one will be adaptable (hopefully) when i finally get a motor... I left enough space on one end to fix a pully.... It will be nice some day to flip a switch and walk away from epoxy, but in the mean time these tools get the job done!

Good idea pouring around the backing... Makes for a nice, tidy brace My only issue is RTV silicone weighing in at $30 a pound, while i can pick up an 8 lb can of plaster for $8 Ive made alot of molds, but i wont pretend that i dont still screw one up occasionally... A failed silicone mold of that size would be an expensive mistake!

Q-tip on this side of the pond

I remember your slotted injector, but ive been using the wooden dowell for 2 years now with no real issues... The only problem i have is if i over fill the tube, the plastic outside cools and binds up the plunger..... Other than that, it works like a charm

Thats a good idea... What i have is a dowel rod sanded for a loose fit, then coated in epoxy to seal (plucking scrap plastic off bare wood is no fun!).... The big screw eye on the end isnt necessary, but i think it looks cooler that way

Now that i think about it... I guess it is a built in injector

Its an insert for the copper pipe... I tried molding an injector in, but the plaster cracked under pressure (as expected) The tube does work great, im custom cutting a pipe for each mold to cut down on re-melts

Thanks Dave! I really wanted to get the vacuum working, but you were right, its just not necessary for simple designs like these This method has far fewer "moving parts", there for less to screw up (ha ha!)

Thought i would re-visit this old thread to show the method became a success By turning the mold vertical and shooting from the bottom im getting consistent results The horizontal set up still works great every time for thin baits, but the vertical set up forces any and all air out of the mold.. Supplies some plastic to draw in for shrinkage.. And the reservoir on top is a great indicator for when the mold is full Two examples so far http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/15604-the-clubber-craw-2-green-pumpkin-green/ http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/15605-the-mud-worm-motor-oil/

I havnt built a jointed bait yet, its on the list.... But from the looks, i would think the wood on wood would (that sounds funny if you say it out loud) be causing too much friction Maybe a coat of epoxy would make 2 hard surfaces and swing more freely... Or even some sort of spacer on the pin between each wood piece

Travis found a lawnmower belt for $3... Funny, same exact belt (supposed to be) that i paid $20 for I was hoping there was a store i could pick one up from, but i guess ill try ordering again... Ill have to wait again... But in the mean time Bob says i can use panty hose, HA!... Ill have to try that just to say i did

Well NAPA did not have it in stock, said they can order it but i didn't wanna go thru that again... So the guy refered me to a tool trader store down the street.... But its a 9-5 store, so that option is out too About fed up!... Almost to the point of just buying a new drill press, but with my luck that belt would break too Travis, where did you get those link belts?

I was pretty sure of my purchace since the model number of my drill was in the description... Still got the wrong thing The big problem is returns... If it cant fit in the mailbox (the belt will) i can forget it.. Post office hours dont coincide with my work schedule

I couldn't agree more!... This is why i went to such extents before ordering! A positive note, along my journeys i found Devcon 2 ton at Ace, so i no longer have to order that!..... My new job is in the city, so i have MANY more options on my way home every day... From my old job i would only pass Walmart and Lowes every day