JRammit

Try air dry clay... The cheap Crayola stuff It dries hard, but becomes soft again when it gets wet... Like when you put it in wet plaster

Mold a live frog like you did that lizard!

I have a fishing buddy, older fellow, who's entire tackle box consists of only 1/8, 1/16 and 1/32 oz Roadrunners No matter what I throw, he out fishes me with his roadrunners every damn time! I keep telling him I'm gonna get in his tackle box and snip off all his blades one day

I use Pourosol too... Ive had the foaming problem a few times, but not often I just scrape the foam off the top before stirring, problem solved

Amazing white casting resin from Alumilite would work fine.... Sanding, drilling, shaping, no problem.. Very durable stuff.... And ez to use

RTV has a much lower rate of failure (at least it does for me).... But POP is WAY more forgiving of mistakes financially That's something most don't take into consideration... When you're figuring up your costs, make sure you factor in F'ups... Especially if you're making your own designs, cause then you have mold failures AND design failures to battle with But don't be scared off by this... All the cussing and throwing stuff is more than worth it when you finally get it right!!! If you haven't picked a supplier yet, check out Spike-It (Lureworks)... They're the only vendor I know of that also sells RTV... I use the 40 strength...... But, they don't sell release agent, which sucks.. But they have everything else you need for plastics, one stop shop, save on shipping! Your design will also dictate which mold material you can/can't use.... You actually can use a hard master in POP, but there are some limitations...... RTV gives you more design freedom

Does look like watermelon... But less watermelon Yours looks a little dark, and you used less white Glitter just looks like blue and gold to me cool color!

I hear ya!... I haven't found a place yet that my boat won't go!!! Ive even been known to drag it into secluded creeks and ponds.. Through the woods down little game trails, across pastures, over and under fences........ That's probably where all the leaks came from in the first place

Thats the truth! My back and legs kill me after a long day of "balancing"... I can tell I'm not getting younger! But the time is coming to retire this old aluminum bucket!.... Just this month I took a big step for the future... I landed the best job I've ever had!... Top of the truck driving ladder! The first year will be a little rough, but by 2018 I'll be looking at Bass Trackers!!!

The blue rubber you see is RTV silicone... It's pricy compared to POP, but much nicer to work with! There are 2 basic ways to go about making a 2 piece mold with RTV..... One is to imbed your master into a bed of clay, pour the first layer of RTV, remove the clay then pour the second layer....... The other way is to use POP in place of the clay... Start out just as you would making a POP mold, but pour the second layer with RTV instead of POP... Then remove the hardened POP and pour the second half of RTV (tip: make the POP layer thin enough to break apart, easier to remove this way) Don't forget a release agent if you're making 2 piece molds... Silicone will bond to itself There are a few other ways to make silicone molds, but they are design specific

color selection can ease the "over lap" look transpartent colors paired together, or opaque colors paired together..... Or an opaque bottom color with a transparent top color you already seem to understand about temperature.. More heat = more problems... You can pour the top layer cooler if you do it while the bottom is still hot

No flex tape.. No flex seal.. And no old screen door

Can't change the design, so your only option is to change the plastic Try one step up from what you're using now... If soft, try medium.. If medium, try hard.... Or get some hardener and custom mix it yourself Ive never used saltwater plastic, but I think it's even harder than regular hard plastic.... I wouldn't think you'd need to go that extreme And I think adding salt would actually make the action worse.... Adding salt only adds weight.... Making a heavier bait could offset the "keel" effect provided by the hook

I guess we should stop building lures all together... I'm sure every one of us are infringing on a patent of some sort Nonsense!... Make your swim baits... Sell them to your friends People sell drugs every day, pretty sure that's illegal too... Just don't go all Scar Face, stepping on the feet of Mexican lure lords and snorting kilos of plastisol... And I bet you'll be fine

So if I cook a hamburger between 2 waffle irons, George Forman will show up at my door with a team of lawyers?? I'm pretty sure you can design/make/build anything you want without violating any laws, until it's marketed for profit So make the swim baits for yourself, and give them away to friends free with the purchase of a bait bag

That shape wouldn't be too hard with a dremel sanding drum id cut the tail profile out with a band saw.. Then take some off the "tail shaft" with the dremel, leaving the "tail end" higher..... Then "burn in" the depressions (top and bottom) using the diameter of the drum Then you'll have an ugly ridge in the middle... With some careful work, you can break the edges of that ridge with the dremel, then clean it up with a small piece of sand paper and some finger nail files

You didn't mention a preferred species for bass I like: - junebug - pumpkinseed - green pumpkin crappie: -white -chartreuse -pink havnt fished walleye in some years... But if I did, I'd use my crappie colors, except I'd replace pink with watermelon thats just the basics.... You'll always end up going back for more!.... Glitter too!

Good read! Keep going......

If you have an Ace Hardware nearby, you can pick up D2T (Devcon 2 ton) there Another problem with 5 minute epoxy, it doesn't have enough time to level out on the bait... 30 minute epoxy will level itself and give you a smoother finish without the lumps you may get from 5 minute

You want to keep it at a "good pouring temp"... This varies with plastisol brands... I use Pourosol from Spike-it, I can pour it as low as 280.. Other brands I think (haven't used) need to pour above 300 The hotter it is, the thinner it will pour.. And vise versa (colder, thicker)... But to much heat will cause shrinkage as it cools in the mold And no, 350 is only a target for "virgin plastisol" (strait from the bottle).. After that, you only need heat to pouring temp