JRammit

I didn't see this in any of the replies, it's an easy one to forget If you plan on doing any light colors like white or white and especially white... Remember to add some heat stabilizer to your order.. It's cheap and a little goes a long way

Patience is a relative term.. I always bake my finished molds... My work (job) schedule only allows little fragments of time here and there for my projects, I try to get as much done with these fragments as possible.... Baking dries only the surface of the plaster, which happens to be the only part you need dry in order to apply sealer.... Having separated, and sealed my mold in the same day makes me feel productive If you have details you don't want covered by epoxy, then you're on the right track with the elmers solution.... But the elmers mixture will also leave brush strokes, so don't brush it on.. Just pour it in the cavity, wait 15-20 seconds and pour it out..... You'll be satisfied with the finish, not as sleek as epoxy, but quite smooth and shiny none the less

It's hard to find any informative videos on the cheaper units like mine... Most of the videos out there cater to the high end units I watched yours then swiped around for a while and found this short one... Gives me a good picture of what I'm looking at Makes me wonder, can I judge the location of structure by the resolution?..... If it's in the center of the beam, the image should be clearer right??

Wait, I think I got it... This thing is 3D right?.... So that's why the bottom shows up as a wide image.... Your arrows are indicating top and bottom of the image, not left and right........ So the lower portion of the image is behind the transducer, and the upper portion is right under that changes things... I really didn't know what I was looking at before.... Can't wait for my next day off now!

I'll call the manufacturer when I get a chance, thanks for that number braid Josh, speed isn't much of an issue with my little Minn Kota, but I see what you're saying about an object staying in the cone Another dumb question.. Looking at the picture you labeled for me, you have the far right labeled "farther from the transducer" and just to the left labeled "directly underneath"....... So, is it scanning ahead? Like the far right is just in front of me??.... Or is it scanning the cone side to side? Like the far right is just to one side of me??

Hey, I just found this sitting in a corner of the house, didn't even know I had it Came out of an old power wheels car my kid had about 5 years ago... Don't know if it's still good, I'll hook it to my charger after work and find out..... If so, this'll work right?.. Says 12 volt on it

Yes that helps!... Thanks for the reply!! You are correct, I have one battery in the boat... But it's fairly new, and fully charged every time I go out (learned to do that the hard way after paddling to shore against 20 mph winds one day)..... If I were to get another battery for the sonar, would something smaller work?.. Like a lawn mower battery??..... Not only for cost reasons, but weight issues as well (small boat) The lines I see are out in open water.. I've also seen thick clusters of white dots, which I assume are schools of baitfish.. So the lines threw me off... They were off the bottom, so likely not logs And you confirmed my theory about structure proximity... Few times I did what you suggested, drop the bouy and go back... My bouy was anywhere from 5' to 20' away from the structure.... Now I understand why, that structure could have been at any point of the cone This thing is more complicated than I thought... But it sure beats dragging my anchor around to find creek channels!

Ive never used it.. I've been wanting to try some, but I wanna do a lot of things...... So I'm really not sure, but I hear it's pretty dense and hard.. If I had to guess, I'd say maybe

It's not every day you get an address to someone who stole from you..... How tempting it must be to make that trip and "handle" the problem personally!!! Just unfortunate the law doesn't allow vigilantly justice... Especially when they won't even make an effort to enforce traditional justice

Resin with enough micro balloons will approach the buoyancy of a light hard wood, like pine.... If you want something with even more buoyancy, closer to balsa, look at Alumifoam

Unfortunately that's against one of the "rules"... Any fine carved in details will leave thin, fragile ridges in the plaster that will break when you remove the master.... But there are other options if you're dead set on detail work the main "trick" is to use a combination of hard and soft material... In the case of my grubs, a wooden body, foam rubber tail and rubber o-rings for the ribs only big "meaty" parts can be hard material, and should be smooth.. Any thin, small pieces parts or appendages need to be some kind of flexible material (this is where creativity kicks in) or can even be cut into the hardened plaster afterwards of course there's more.. A lot more... Since this thread isn't really about mold making, Pm me when you're ready and ill throw more info at you

Hey look at that... Pop pop pop glitch fixed

Example of a traditional grub mold I made recently The masters were carved from wood, which I know you're proficient with... Some think you can't use wooden masters in pop, but you can if you follow a few rules tly

Don't cheat yourself out of the option of making your own molds.... If you're the type who enjoys design, and I know you are Dale, then it's far more rewarding!... That is once you ride the learning curve, just like anything else A little paddle tail grub isn't a complex project to start with.. Actually I was planning on designing one soon if you're interested, I'd be happy to share my methods with you... There are plenty of guys who make far cleaner molds than I do, but I have an extensive history of failures, so I can tell you exactly what not to do

So I just got my first sonar for my birthday.. A little Lowrance 3dsi elite, for my little 12 ft Jon boat.... I've taken it out twice now and haven't caught anything.. Maybe because I spend more time staring at the screen than casting, or maybe it's the weather.. Who knows... I thought fishing was supposed be easier with these things, but apparently there is a learning curve, who woulda thought Anyway, I'll start with the problem... Most of the time it works fine, but occasionally it will randomly start several new screens.. Sometimes just 2 or 3, other times it looks like you let a toddler play with your computer and he opened every window you have..... I'll try to post a pic here, see how this new format works Well, it's a little sideways, but you get the idea.... Why would it do this?? Now the dumb questions... I've never used one of these before, so here's all I know so far..... The right of the screen shows what's directly under the transducer, the left shows what I've already passed.. And white dots are theoretically fish..... That's it I mounted the transducer to my trolling motor, so what happens when I turn it??.. What am I looking at then??..... Keeping a little aluminum boat steady in the wind takes a lot of steering, if I'm constantly spinning the transducer around, does it get dizzy? And how wide is the cone?... If I see a tree, is it right under me, or could it be a few feet right or left??.... I made some makeshift marker bouys, how do I know which way to throw them to avoid dropping them into the cover? And if fish are dots, then what is a line? I see lines sometimes, big thick lines and long skinny lines... Sharks? That's all I can think of at the moment, any other tips or tricks would be appreciated!... I've done well pounding the banks for years, but I know there's fish off shore too, and I wanna find em!

hey look at that! these are pretty cool!... Couldn't do that before

Just found it... Click on "browse" in the menu options

I see no option to switch between "mobile version" and "full version"..... I only participate from my phone, so am I seeing the same thing everyone else is now?

Alumilite makes good products, but they make ALOT of products!!!... I'd recommend looking up Larry Dahlberg on YouTube, he has a ton of informative videos on the best Alumilite products for lure making I use the amazing white casting resin.. Good choice for beginners, easy to use and no problems with bubbles

Epoxy works best imo... Seals the wood without raising the grain, makes a super smooth surface.... And hides any imperfections you made while carving

First you have to switch off the mobile version of TU... On the bottom of the screen, click the button that says "full version" Then if you're posting in the gallery, select your category and click "upload".... To post in the forum, click "more reply options" then add your attachment

There's a little lake about 5 miles from me I could drive to... But just not the same as waking across the yard Losing crankbaits isn't a problem for me... With my little design, I haven't lost a single one in 2 years

Thanks Dale... feeling MUCH better already... Got up early today so I can get a little shop time in before all that family stuff...... I over estimated my stock... No mold making materials and down to my last 3' strip of PVC....... And the biggest thing missing is my pool, had to take it down for the winter, so I'm reduced to bath tub testing........ Hard to get stuff done this time of year

There's a good specific first problem Ez fix, you need a center line Lay your blank flat on the bench (this would have been done before any sanding).. Prop up a sharpie near the center of the blank, doesn't have to be exact(I use pop ice sticks) Spin the blank around the sharpie, so you have a strait line all the way around... Now flip the blank over and spin around again to make another line...... If your sharpie hasn't moved, then you have 2 lines exactly the same distance from each edge of the blank, the space between these lines is the exact center of the bait

Jimmie, I'm sure you've tried this already, but sometimes it's the obvious solutions that escape us.... More micro balloons? For the shape and size you're after, there should be no reason you can't achieve a buoyant, stable body Also, not so obvious, let the resin cure longer before you test.. I've noticed a difference in buoyancy from day one to day two