token12

Hey ya'll. Yesterday I went out and did a few test runs. I tied a 17# florocarbon leader to the braided line and work flawlessly. The second test was tying straight to 14# mono. I only had two instances with the mono where it wrapped around the screw eye under the blade as show in the pic in my first post. After that I had no more problems. I think the main adjustment outside of the line was slowing my retrieve down a bit which also made a difference. Thanks you all for your input and advice on getting this problem worked out. TIGHT LINES!

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to pick up some heavier mono. I have 17# flouro lying around that i'm going to try for a leader. Would you guys recommend mono 12# or higher to tie straight to the screw eye? I'm going to try the two methods on two separate top water rods.

Hey ya'll Been awhile since I have posted. I am currently experiencing a problem with one of my top water prop bait designs. The line mono and braided line keeps getting wrapped around the screw eye and under the cup washer. Has anyone else ever experienced this? The lure is made from bass wood and has a 1/8th oz belly weight with two 2 inch props, one in the front and rear. The lure is roughly 3.5 inches long. Thanks all in advance!

Thanks for the info guys. Now ill pass this on to my buddy. Hughesy thanks for the enlightment on what grit you use.

Blasting is all new to my buddy and i. Ive done some research and found some use glass bubbles and or baking soda. I will give a look at Hughes Custom Baits and ask him. Outside of a blast cabinet, do either one of you have a method for paint removal from hard plastic lures?

Howdy y'all! It's been a while since I have posted anything so here goes. I recently got a blasting cabinet in my possession (buddy purchased it, not me), and I am wondering which media you all use if you use the blasting method to remove paint from plastic hard baits.

I haven't had much success with my resin swim bait prototypes. There is a video somewhere on youtube where a guy uses a real shad for the master. I carved mine out of wood then made the mold. I'm on my 4th or 5th revision of the swim bait. Going to test it out tomorrow afternoon. I have used a 10 minute urethane plastic by smooth on with some micro balloons added in to help with sanding. Solarfall baits on youtube recently did a 30 minute video on a gizzard shad he made from wood then used feather-lite i think to make the cast.

Hold your cup of resin above the mold to help pop any bubbles as you're pouring, thats one thing I do. I also mix until I start feeling the heat from the heat given from the reaction, then I pour. You can also look into doxy 5. It'll help eliminate any bubbles if you cannot degas the mix. http://www.theengineerguy.com/Doxy-5-Urethane-Degassing-Agent.html

nedyarb, you made it into Paul Adams' lure blog http://homeluremaking.blogspot.com/2016/04/how-to-make-balsa-crankbait-with-rattles.html

Try contacting smooth-on and ask them about ure-fil 15. I'm not sure if they will crush under 40psi though.

nedyarb, which mold did you modifty?

I think nedyarb should do a few tutorial videos.

Never heard of anything working like that. Thanks for the tip!

Hmm...i would seal the bait first, then with a hot glue gun and weights, hot glue them to the body and test them out in a sink and keep moving weights around to see which set up works to get the right balance you're looking for.

Definitely going to give it a shot!