Hookemup

Well i would switch, but ive got a pretty good investment in createx already. I think my next step is going to be to try to find something that works well to protect the paint from the solvent in the urethane. Maybe ill try that fixatif. Then thin down the glisten pc with their reducer, and airbrush a couple light coats so it doesnt drip. The dripping seems to pull some of the color away from areas, so i f ican get a good tack coat or two on first, i should be able to put a nice thick final coat on with no problems. If this doesnt work, im going to try the DNs81. Heres a question on the side.... If im using an acrylic enamel or acrylic laquer in between paint layers, and on top before clear coating, and its not uv resitant, will it start to yellow underneath the uv resistant urethane coating?

I own an airbrush skeeter.

thanks for the input fellas

Has anyone had good results with any water based urethanes? Do they dry faster than the solvent, or oil based ones? Any reccommendations?

epoxy resins are formulated to be mixed at a speific ratio in order to work. Adding more hardener, or resin will NOT give you better results.

Sprinkle dry glitter on your bait the way you want it, MIST a light coat of an aerosol acrylc, or spray laquer over it to hold it in place. Spray from further away than you normally would, or you will end up blowing flakes off. Once they are being held in place and wont blow away, get closer and put a better coat over everything while its still tacky. Then clear coat. No more flakes sticking up.

I just saw wome 2k aersols on the net. Wondered if anyone has tried them, and what your experience with them is like. http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2k-aero-spray-high-gloss-clear.html?fee=5&fep=26897&srccode=ga220010&gclid=Cj0KEQjwu_eeBRCL3_zm8aOtvvkBEiQApfIbGF8IhuurKjL6lP5Uv_gtpqDqEv-ol2OslgwUFG1ZrzgaAmCw8P8HAQ

If i could find a clear urethane primer, and put that down first, would it help? Or do those have solvents in them too?

Thanks for the replies. I notice the wrinkling after the first coat, so we can rule out that i was putting the second coat on too soon. It could be the krylon uv clear, but i doubt it. I think the solvent in the MCU is eating thru the krylon and messing up the paint. I will test this. Salty, why would i benefit from the fixatif over uv clear? Whats the difference. No idea what fixatif is... Will it protect my paint from the solvent in the MCU?

Thanks for the replies. I would dip and lift, then dip and lift again, then hang. Then let them sit for 20 min, and put another coat on in the same manner. Is this process causing the problems? Also, i use this krylon uv clear as a pre clear protective coat to reduce messing up paint on the fronts while doing the backs. It just gives me piece of mind when handling blades that arent cleared yet. Could this product be causing some kind of reaction with the MCU? I let all paint and sprays dry thouroughly before clearing. I have also noticed that some of the white blades have some yellowish areas on them now. Any ideas what is casuing this and how to avoid it? Thanks

I just started using glisten pc. I am coating walleye spinner blades by dipping them in it. After i apply it, the paint on some of the blades start to get light spots, wrinkles ect.. When i clean the drips, i can see paint in the urethane i take off. Are you not supposed to use water based paints with MCU's? Would the Dick nite stuff be better? I figured they are practically the same thing. Thanks.

Thanks for the responses. Are the self etching primers clear gloss? I wouldnt want to lose any shine when doing transparent colors.

Hi guys first post here at TU. I was just wondering if anyone has experience using this stuff? Its says that it is an acrylic coating. I have been using spray laquer in between coats until i ran out. So now i bought this on a wimb instead. Im not sure what the difference is between a laquer clear, and an arylic clear, enamel clear, and varnish. Maybe someone can answer that on the side for me. Heres the product i am referring to... http://www.krylon.com/products/uvresistant-clear-coating/ I paint spinner blades for walleye rigs and some plastic cranks. My intetnions were to only use this stuff as a barrier between paint coats, but after seeing how strong it is, i am debating not even putting a real clear over it like you would with etex, dc2t, or any auto, or mcu product. The gloss is just as good if not better than etex and feels the same as well. I was amazed. I figure if i put like 5-7 coats on the blades, it should stand up to the elements, but just wanted your opinions. It says non yellowing and uv resistant, but i just want to hear about real life results. Does it yellow? Also, while i was on the Kryon website, i notice a couple other things that sparked my interest..Anyone with experience with these products feel free to chime in. Low odor clear finish. It says that its a latex enamel. How does this differ from acrylic and laquer? http://www.krylon.com/products/low-odor-clear-finish/ Colormaster paint and primer acrylic crystal clear. http://www.krylon.com/products/colormaster-paint-primer-acrylic-crystal-clear/ This stuff here really surpised me. Urethane coating in a spray can...? Anyone? http://www.krylon.com/products/clear-polyurethane-coating/ What do you guys use for your "in between" coats? Also, unrelated question, are you guys preping the metal on spinners before you lay paint onto them? If so what is the common practice for it? ive heard some sand the surface, and one person said to use self etching primer. Personally i have yet to see a need to do anything. I just clean the finger oil off the metal surface and then paint. Thanks.