Jeff Hahn

Fill the area with red high temp silicone to block the lead flow. If you decide to pour jigs with a weedguard or keeper, the silicone can be removed.

No, I don’t modify for a wire keeper. But, I often use a wire weedguard instead of a fiber guard.

I use the Bullet style mold for my swim jigs and it comes through the grass with no issues. I also mainly use the 1/4 size, occasionally a 3/8, and use the 1/2 only when the win is up or I'm fishing deep.

If I am making a bait that I’m likely to lose a lot of, then fingernail polish is fine. If it’s a bait that I’m not likely to lose and will use overtime, then I powder paint.

That's a pile of hooks!

Have you tried using a twin wire weedguard on your finesse jig, rather than the fiber weedguard? I use these wire weedgaurds on many of my jigs and prefer them in many situations to fiber. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Wire-Weedguard

I use Sally Hansen fingernail polish to paint my blades. It may chip off after a while, but is easily reapplied.

If the hooks are cold, the lead will harden quickly when it hits the hook. You might allow the hooks to sit in the warm mold for a minute before pouring. This may allow the lead to form around the hook more completely. As far as the hook being loose in the mold, you could take a little high temp red silicone and put a light coating where the hook lies. This will prevent it from moving around when you close the mold. As far as the buzz bait pulling to the left...if the bait only has one blade, the direction that the blades are bent will dictate whether the bait runs to the right or left. A single bladed buzz bait will never run straight.

I believe that is how Eagle Claw designated their heavier hooks...same model number but with an "H" after it.

If you have a jighead mold that incorporates a collar on the jighead, pour the jighead without a hook and then use gate cutters to cut off the collar portion to use in lieu of a nail weight.

Eagle Claw used to make their regular 570 and also a heavy wire version of the same hook. They did this with several of their smaller hooks. You might be looking for the heavy wire version of the 570.

Those look a lot like Tim Poe's spinnerbaits. Any idea what hook he used on his?

When curing my jigs in the oven, I used bent out paperclips. One end goes into the hook eye and the other end hangs on the oven rack. This way, if I do get a drip, it runs toward the hook rather than toward the head. I put an old cookie sheet under the jigs so that no paint will drip inside the wife's oven!

Here's what I use. https://barlowstackle.com/Wire-Weed-Guard-P3836/ Jann's has something similar https://www.jannsnetcraft.com/Search/wire weed guard.aspx You can also use stainless wire to form a loop that clips underneath the point of the hook.

Very nice looking jigs!

These also work great as line cutters in the boat.

I used the 3/8" size from Jann's. No problem bending the wire, but still quite heavy duty. https://www.jannsnetcraft.com/plug-parts/310311.aspx

Never saw a jig, let alone an ice jig, like those. Is that what you use to catch the famous Bill Engvall Dork Fish!

This is what I use. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Wire-Weedguard

Exactly what I do and have never had a weedguard pull out. Make sure to use the super glue GEL, as the liquid will wick up the weedguard and cause problems.

Yes, plastic.

I've used Aaron Martens method with very good results. Here's another method that yo can use on the fly in your boat.

Most companies that use that design have their hooks manufactured with a couple flat spots where the plastic sits. That helps keep the plastic keeper in place. I suspect that the hook is placed in a mold and the plastic injected around the hook shaft.

A buddy of mine used to own Ohio Pro Lure. He used a piece of clear tubing to create a quick change feature on his Max Series Spinnerbaits.

I always glue the fiber guards into the jighead after the head is poured. Since I am going to trim the weed guard anyway, I glue the non-fused end into the jighead. Before applying the glue (Loctite Super Glue Gel) necessary, I do a test fit. If necessary, I will pull out one or two of the fibers to get a perfect fit. Once the glue has dried, I use small side cutters to trim off the fused end.