Jeff Hahn

On the left is the Figure 8 link from Jann's that I use to make bladed jigs. It's a Size 3. On the right is a Size 1 Figure 8 link from Jann's. I prefer the Size 1, but the one that Jann's sells is made of a soft metal, almost like what you'd find in a jewelry making kit. After one or two fish, the link gets bent and the bait won't run well. Plus, continuously readjusting results in the link getting loose in the jighead. I really want to find more of the Size 1 Figure 8 links but in a harder metal. Any ideas...particularly of a product like this that is used in some other kind of manufacturing and not advertised as a lure making part?

I don't use a split ring and I always bend my blades. Not all of my vibrating jigs "hunt" like you mentioned. But, when I make one that does, it set it aside for use when the $$$ is on the line. I have found that it may take some use to get a bait to hunt. The longer it is used, the deeper the grooves that the blade makes in the head, the more the bait "hunts." That's why I never powder paint my heads. Powder paint is too tough and won't allow the blade to dent and groove the lead head very well.

I bought a Do-It's Bullet jighead mold (1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 ounce heads) and use the 30 degree 4/0 Mustad heavy wire jig hook with it. I'm very pleased with t he results and how easily it comes through weeds. I've tried other head designs, but the Bullet is the most weedless. DO-IT BBJ-3-AY WEEDLESS BULLET JIG MOLD

Yep, clear Sally Hansen Hard as Nails.

I had a few silicone molds made by InShore tackle Company several years ago. They recommend using talc as a release agent. They also vented every mold they made for me.

I also use fingernail polish. It might chip now and then, but it's easily touched up.

The Sparkie head is wider. That allows the edges of the blade to bang on the jighead during the retrieve. Some folks use a football head, which is even wider. But, I have never tried that style. The Sparkie is about as close as you can get to the same head shape as on the original RAD Chatterbait. I have made a few using the Arkie head. They vibrate just fine, but the blade doesn't hit the head.

I think that the Sparkie head is far superior to the Arkie head for bladed jigs.

The original RAD Chatterbait had a much thinner blade than the blades that you can buy through Barlows, Jann's, or LPO. Those blades are even a tad thinner (and solid metal rather than plated) than the blades on the original Z-Man baits. I thought about buying a sheet of thin steel and cutting my own blades. But, it looked like more trouble than it was worth. I did make a few blades from tin can lids. They worked OK. I have also wondered if a thinner blade would make a different noise when banging the jighead, compared to a thicker blade.

I don't know of any larger than 5/0. But, I would think that 5/0 would be plenty large enough for pike.

Just make sure to use a steel leader with the vibrating jig. I make my own. But, you can also cut off the snap on a standard steel leader. Then, take the snap that comes with the vibrating jig and open the top, slip it on to the loop on the steel leader, and close the top of the snap.

I always bend my blades.

THIS^^^. If you're going to use a steel leader, which is standard when pike fishing, use the closed/twisted loop type of spinnerbait. Also, do yourself a favor and take some 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 ounce vibrating jigs. The choice of trailer is up to you, as pike are not particularly picky. When the pike are aggressive, which is a lot of the time, throw the vibrating jig a mile and wind it back as fast as you can. But, hold on, because a decent pike will try to rip the rod out of your hands!

Zane: You made some beautiful jigs there!

I get the same tiny ridge on many of the jigs I pour. I believe it is a result of a less than perfect match where the two mold halves meet. I don't think you can do anything to fix the mold and prevent this. But, you can remove the tiny ridge from the baits you have poured using a flat edge.

https://www.barlowstackle.com/Casting-Release-Spray--P361.aspx I also found it on Amazon for $9.99.

Lure Parts Online, Barlow's, Jann's Netcraft

Good thinking!

Thanks for the info. It would be tedious. If my local buddy doesn't want to mess with it. I'll bring it down to you in March.

Hal: Here are the pics. I'm pretty sure that any attached trigger would need to be pinned to take much of the strain off of the glue.

I have a local buddy who, I am pretty certain, can add a trigger. In fact, he likes new and challenging projects like this! Is this who I think it is?

The reel seat on the rod is a Fuji TPS-D16G model.

Not a pistol grip. It's a Lew's Laser with the old Power Plus handle. I love those handles as much as I love the rod blank on those rods.

Long story short, I found one of my favorite old original Lew's rods at a bass fishing swap meet yesterday. I had to buy it. The problem is that the guy cut the trigger off. This was a common practice around here a number of years ago when flipping finesse jigs with spinning tackle was the rage. At that time, no company made a long, heavy action spinning rod and braided line was not yet on the market. So, everyone bought a casting rod to flip with, cut the trigger off, and used it with a big spinning reel. I did the same thing with a flipping rod many years ago. And, when I wanted it converted back to a casting rod, a friend reinstalled a trigger for me. I have no idea how he did it. But, all you can see is a fine line between the trigger and the bottom of the reel seat. I don't know if he just glued it or used a pin and glue. The problem is that the guy who did this repair for me as since moved out of the area. Any suggestions on how a trigger can be reattached to this rod?

I always preheated my mold by making several "false" pours without hooks. Once I pour in the lead, I sit the mold on top of my Hot Pot for a few minutes. Then, I remove the lead from the cavities and repeat the process. I usually do this 3 times and the mold is plenty hot to begin pouring with hooks. Just a guess, but your method may not be getting the inside of the mold hot enough. I also assume that you have smoked your mold?