Jeff Hahn

Could have been a Strike King. I believe they had a spinnerbait with a timber King type spoon attached. Or, it could have been a Jewel spinnerbait.

Yes, fish them on a weighted swimbait hook. If you texspose the tip in the top of the bait you can swim the bait through some pretty heavy cover.

I use a 4/0 Mustad long shank spinnerbait hook. It's the exact same size as the hook used on the original RAD baits.

I agree. I use a Sparkie mold for mine. I have made some with an Arkie mold and they vibrate fine and catch fish. But, the one thing they do not do, which I think is crucial, is that the bottom corners of the blade does not bang on the jighead. I can only get that action with the Sparkie style mold.

With the Figure 8 link, you use a straight shaft spinnerbait hook and attach the figure 8 link to the eye of the hook. Then, the other end of the figure 8 link becomes the eye to which the blade is attached.

Nope. I make them for myself and my tournament partner.

I doubt it. I had a Stanely spinnerbait that would catch fish when a virtually similar one would not. But, the wire lossened in the head after a while. A little JB weld tightened it back up and it's still going strong many years later.

I don't know what they are called, but they were used on Hellbenders and the old style Bombers. I bet they would work on a vibrating jig. But, I have never had a problem withthe #2 snap.

That sounds like a good solution.

I made up several hooks using this technique. This style of keeper works great around wood and rocks. But, it's not great around weeds. The keeper, even when laying flat against the plastic bait, always seems to wedge a piece of grass between the keeper and the plastic. So, I modified a few, like Bassbull sugested, and put the keeper on the inside of the hook shank. This should solve the problem of them grabbing the weeds.

Update: The Hot Glue jigs I made look great. But, they don't work worth a flip! The almost float and will not sink once I add a plastic trailer. They will definitely need to be weighted in some way. Maybe adding a BB or two or perhaps pouring them on an 1/8 ounce head and then putting that jig in a larger cavity and injecting the Hot Glue.

How about posting a pic of this design? Thanks in advance!

I took a small triangular file and made a slot to mold in a cable weedguard. Works great.

Thanks. I already checked out most of those models.

Just an update. I went back to the tackle store where I purchased the original pack of 4/0 Strike King Hackney Flipping Hooks. I had bought their last pack and they had not yet restocked. So, I looked around and bought a pack of the 30 VMC Heavy Wire Flipping Hooks. It turns out that these are the exact same size as the 4/0 Hackney hooks. So, I do have 4 more hooks of the same size, but none in a smaller size. And, the VMC heavy wire hook does not come in a 2/0 size, as far as I can determine.

I know that some guys do the knot trick on other hooks that have a gap in the eye. I do like the thread wrapping idea. It does take more time. But, I'd rather do that and know it was done right.

I bought a pack of the 4/0 Strike King Hack Attack Heavy Wire Flipping hooks. (Here's what they look like: http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Strike_King_Hack_Attack_Heavy_Cover_Flipping_Hooks_4pk/descpage-SKHAFH.html The 4/0 is the smallest size they sell, but it's a little big for the baits that I want to use it with. I'm wanting a hook like the Hack Attack Heavy flipping hook, but in smaller sizes. Other companies make a similar hook, but that I like. So, I took a look at the Mustad spinnerbait hooks that I use to build bladed jigs. They look a whole lot like the Hack Attack hook and, of course, they come in smaller sizes. I did check the eyes and they are pinched very tightly shut, so I didn't think 50 pound braided line I use would slip through the gap int he hookeye. However, I did find one that had a rough edge, which is no big deal when making a spinnerbait or bladed jig, but would be if they were used for flipping. But, they are bright silver and don't have a keeper. I may have to do some homespun engineering and experimenting. I took a 3/0 Mustad spinnerbait hook with me to the lake this morning. I snelled it and caught several fish on a plastic worm. Then, I noticed that the first 2 wraps had pulled into the tiny gap in the hookeye. When I got home, I mixed some JB Weld and used it to close the gap in the hookeye and cover any rough spots. Then, the JB Weld didn't set properly. I don't know if I didn't mix it evenly or if it was just too old to work. I took the JB Weld off the hooks and applied some 5 minute epoxy. It set up nicely and appears to be exactly what I wanted. I also thought about putting some shrink tubing below the hookeye that would block the tiny gap in the hookeye. I tried it on one hook. To make it work I would have to tie my line over the top of it. Probably not a big deal. But, I think the epoxy will work well enough that I don't have to fool around with the shrink tubing. Any other suggestions from you experts?

I use a small diamater (1/8 inch, I think) piece of stainless tubing, cut to fit inside the cavity carved in the mold for a fiber weedguard. I put the wire for the weedguard inside the tubing, put the tubing and hook in the mold, and pour. Sometimes the lead will creep up the tubing a tad. But, it is easily removed once the tubing is pulled off.

Dang...I thought this thread was about smoking, drinking, and gambling!

I made one out of an old large diameter ballpoint pen.

Looks like the same red, High Temp RTV Silicone that I use around the seals on my trailer hubs.

I have modified a couple molds to accept wire weedguards. I just took a small triangular file and cut a small groove in the mold in the position where I wanted the weedguard to be. I only bothered cutting the groove in one side of the mold, as the wire can be bent slightly to put it dead center of the jighead. File a little and then try the wire weedguard, then file some more, if need be. Don;t cut the groove any wider than necessary, espeically at the point that it enters the jighead or lead will creep up the wire when you pour.

Yep, Loctite Super glue GEL.

Facts are irrelevant when you are a "true believer."

I always put the silicone or rubber on the outside. I assume that it's more free to wiggle when the jig is paused if it's on the outside.