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DF1

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  1. I have had the mold for a couple years. It shoots great and makes a nice bait. The bait itself has a meaty nose and mid section while the tail flattens out on one side giving it good action, but like all Essential molds it doesn't have the shiny finish of the cnc version. I fish it on a shaky head with excellent results.
  2. If you are going to make a simple bait without a ton of detail like a worm you can use scupley clay for the master but leave the clay green (don't bake it) and it will pull out of the plaster mold. You can help prevent the green master from deforming by cooling it in the freezer for a little while before you cast it. It may sound crazy but I have used silly putty to make simple masters for plaster molds. Here are some simple grubs I made using this process http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/media/monthly_2017_06/large.SAM_0997.JPG.fb48048c3d5e4e6ff83a249bea960b27.JPG
  3. http://custombaits.com/index.php?topic=8575.0
  4. I have seen those baits someplace before The mylar tubing can make the baits very stiff, so it's not ideal for all types of baits. I use the pictured baits on a drop shot rig and the mylar tubing really holds onto the hook so you loose a lot less baits. My local Walmart dose not have the tubing in stock anymore, but I have seen it on Amazon.
  5. No, I didn't paint it, I don't mind the ES finish.
  6. I like the ES Beaver, cheap and it catches fish.
  7. It's pretty simple, you cut a piece of foil about the same size as the mold, open the mold, place the foil in between the open halves, clamp the mold shut, now shoot the mold like normal. The foil will split the bait in half, place half the bait back in the mold and shoot your second color. As far as Essential Series molds vs CNC, I would get a sample pack of baits from Do-It so you can see both up close. I will say I have been fishing ES Senkos all summer and have caught plenty of fish, to me CNC mold baits will catch more fisherman but ES mold baits will catch just as many fish.
  8. If you are doing a single color cold molds are fine, like Mark said they heat up enough after a pour or two. For multi color pours I like to heat my aluminum mold until its toasty warm, just to help the plastic flow better and to prevent cold cracks. The down side to heating your mold is it takes a while for it to cool enough to de-mold.
  9. 2.5 gallons or less falls under their flat rate shipping witch is like 8 bucks, 5 gallons or more has to be calculated.
  10. Hey, I'm sorry for being grumpy, no hard feelings Big Ray.
  11. Search Super Fry on the Do-It forum and you will see it has come up a few times. If your not happy with your mold send it back, no need to rip people on their forum, many of whom are on this forum. Thanks, Your yes man Dan
  12. I have a few of these molds now and I am very pleased with them. The finish of the baits is a turn off for some, but for 30 bucks I have zero issue with it. They are to good of a value for me to pass up, you get molds that shoot great, will last a lifetime, and come in proven fish catching designs. All that being said, get your sample pack and make your own choice.
  13. CS Coatings has an orange worm dip. http://www.csipaint.com/products/markers-dips/worm-dip.php
  14. I have used the essential series senko mold, it shoots great, makes nice baits, and being cast aluminum it should last forever. They don't have the super glossy finish of a cnc mold but they should be perfect for beginners and guys like me that just make baits for personal use.
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