Fishermanbt

X2 clear dip. The plastic will continue to extrude its compounds over time to some degree thus causing the adhesive to fail.

Bass tackle http://www.basstackle.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=737-KJ-1#PhotoSwipe1653504543062 i looked at purchasing this one for a Ned bait but just never did.

Thanks DM. Got the color and a recipe to make more. Much appreciated.

There isn’t anything about it that’s blue or fleck! But the picture you posted looks spot on. Thanks

Never thought about oxblood. This along with a handful of other colors I had bought in a bulk deal were faded or smeared. This is why I started putting packing tape around the bottle labels as soon as I them. I tried searching del mart colorants but nothing.

I have this half full bottle colorant that I would like figure out the name of. It really spruces up a purple soft plastic. All that I can read on the label is Delmart. It has a purple/plum/brown tint to it in plastic.

I wanted to give an update on my ordering placed back in late January/early February. Amazingly I received my custom cut aluminum bugmolds.com the end of last week. Dang! Those fellas did an amazing job simply off a few pictures of a bait. I just saw they updated their site stating the shop is back up and running too.

Flashing around the Victory hook on a few of mine but nothing terrible or consistent. I modified my mold to also accept a 90° Eagle Claw and wire keeper. Had trouble with those flashing around the tie eye but that was somewhat expected. As for body flashing no issues with either hook style.

here are some ideas https://ultramolds.com/product/curl-tail-grub/ https://fatguysfishing.com/6-hanging-grub-6-cavity/

I would suggest a brief soak in some kind of diluted mild degreaser like Simple Green or Super Clean followed by a scrubbing with a stiff bristle hand brush. Like those used to clean tires and wheels.

Fantastic stream on Jig Squad this evening Smalljaw. I don’t think I can ever thank you enough for the knowledge you share on here and your YouTube channel. You have really helped me learn and understand the tying process.

My starter airbrush was a cheap one from Walmart with a glass cup. After many issues I moved up to a Neo and am very pleased with it for price and performance. Paints-I bought all that I could afford plus a few more from AC Moore craft store when it went out of business. Mainly Spectra and Golden brands. I’ve also picked up some Createx colors. All seem to be decent for my projects. I have an airbrush compressor but I rarely use it. I have a small compressor like yours pictured and it does a fine job. Just be sure to add a moisture trap filter in the line. I found mine at harbor freight along with fittings. Hope this helps.

One thing I found when making a mold using fast cure resin was the heat generated caused the bottom/floor of my abs printed mold to warp. The 2 part silicone I tried did not do that. My resin and silicon came from specialtyresin.com the 2 part resin has been great for making knock offs of the Mirror Lure jerk bait in a silicone mold.

I was going to recommend Gulf Stream Outdoors but you beat me to it. I’ve been watching his tutorials over the past few weeks and learned a lot. I’m still in the R&D of this myself. I have an Anycubic i3 printer. What are you running?

Iwata cleaner between colors, warm water flush at the end of session followed by some cleaner. Every so often I do a complete tear down (minus the air valve) and run it through a few cycles in the sonic cleaner with water and a bit of super clean or simple green.

That’s the spirit! I’ve also heated mine until it just started to smoke and scraped it with a razor blade or putty knife. Followed by a quick wipe down with a dry shop towel

With the knife cold I give it a scrub with a Scotch Bright pad (pot scrubber) to remove dried on, crusty plastic. If that doesn’t cut through it try a copper pot scrubber. For stubborn baked on plastic heat the knife up on low, wear gloves and try the copper scrubber.

I too placed an order just prior to the invasion for a custom mold. Victor has been great to keep in communication with me. Pondered trying to do refund through PayPal due to the amount I spent but I figured the heck with it. I’ll either get it or I won’t. They have to much to worry about right now.

I just wanted to give Zeiners Angler Supply some credit for their outstanding customer service. I broke down and ordered a couple molds that I’ve had my eye on. Just a few hours later I get a call from Zeiners with a detailed message just to make sure I was aware that the one mold took a specialized hook. I called him back and he finalized my order over the phone. Heck, he even gave me some info he had read on the current status of Bug Molds over in Ukraine after I had mentioned I was in line for a custom mold. Long story short, that is some fantastic customer service.

I use hemostats, Helping Hands like used for soldiering, or just an alligator clip. All clipped at the top of the split ring hole. If painting steel blades a magnet bar will help too.

Yon need to add florescent/bright colors to cold, raw plastic then heat up to the 350° mark. Those colors almost always cause problems when added to hot plastic.

Are you shooting one color or making a two color bait?

Hello everyone. I have recently been on the hunt for a madtom/stone cat mold, but keep coming up short. I would like to have a CNC but a silicone open pour might work. Looking for something in the 3-5” range with a little more detail than a Case Plastics. I have one bait in hand that I can’t seem to find out much about it. It is 5” long, has a hook slot and the name “Buds” on the bottom (see attached pictures). Looks like it was produced in a an injection machine due to the small injection port nub on its nose. I might have a chance at a CNC but I need to see if it’s for sale and the cost. Any help is appreciated.

Glad I could help.

I have it and have shot several runs through it. It shoots very nice. Almost no denting and well vented. It does have the ES mat finish which I think adds to it. For a shiny bait I just hit them with a pass or two from the propane torch. As for laminates I just started using a dual injector so yes you can easily do laminates. Just follow what Les Young said about keeping plastic heat consistent. I also tried the cut and paste method with good results. a laminate plate will not work on this mold unless you want a side by side color.