Venutian_Lures

I am quite fond of Wicked paints, so smooth!

I paint a few different pumpkinseed patterns because I've caught and seen all kinds of variations of them. One of them is this: Base coat white (kind of obvious lol) Belly: Sunrise Yellow dusted with Pearl Orange OR Transparent Orange Body: Iridescent Aqua Apply whatever size scale masking you prefer and LIGHTLY spray an extra thinned Transparent Light Brown. Remove scale masking and lightly spray the backside of the bait with Transparent Dark Brown. Add the ear with whatever method you prefer (stencil, hand painted etc). I hand paint mine with an opaque paint pen. With a very small paint brush I dip the tip into the Iridescent Aqua and create the gill plate design. Finally set your pressure low and spray a light Detail Smoke Black (or a thinned transparent black) just around the eyes. Add red eyes, clear coat and hardware!

what everyone else said. lower your air pressure, thin your paint and don't hold your pen right on top of the bait. even a low air pressure setting will create that spider webbing/blow out effect if your pen is too close to your bait.

I must be the only one that doesn't like D2T. I got a sample of it once and it wasn't as good as my BSI so I never used it again. I have to agree with everyone else though, hook rash will happen on any bait with any clear coat, some just not as bad as others. BSI is my go to clear coat over everything I have tried, and I have tried quite a few different top coats. Caught lots of toothy critters on my baits with BSI and they don't scratch up too badly, still looking like new. I'm just wondering though how long you let the bait cure with the D2T before fishing it? I've seen a few cases where people give the bait the bare minimum of cure time and then fish it immediately and they seem to be more prone to hook rash sooner than baits that have been cured and let rest for longer periods of time.

Black and Blue chatter baits either 1/4oz or 1/2oz, dragged along the bottom near small structure, that is what's working right now in the North East. Water temps haven't hit 50 here yet so it's still slow going for the warm water species.

I don't try to strip the paint from a bait, especially a plastic one because you'll ruin it. You don't need to remove all the paint to do a re-paint of a bait so I'd rather not possibly ruin one. All I do is lightly buff any existing clear coat to give the paint something to stick to. I use a soft grit blending block to do this, and that's it.

I have had no problems with my BSI dampening the sound or action of any lipless rattle trap type bait. It also hasn't cracked or done anything like that around the edges. Maybe I'm just lucky but these things have not happened to me using BSI epoxy on a rattle trap bait.

I have Predator's Megabass Vibration KO lipless. I use BSI 20 minute cure and have to apply a thicker coat to those blanks than any others because the scale pattern is deeper on that blank than any other. I apply small amounts at a time and focus on working the epoxy into the grooves and along the edges and it has solved all my problems there.