McLuvin175

I think the bleeding shad color is a dye, meaning it will "bleed" into other areas of the bait. This is true of all true dyes. They are soluble in plastisol and will diffuse throughout a bait or even transfer to other soft plastic baits. You can beat the transparency and brilliance a dye but if you want to do a laminate that needs non-bleed colorants you will have to use a red pigment. Red pigments are not usually as good looking as a red dye so it will change the look of your bait. If you insist on using the bleeding shad color you will need to look at shooting a one color bait or have your second color be dark like black or brown which wont show much of the bleed. Or complimentary to red bleed, like a opaque fluorescent chartreuse which will turn orange. Good luck.

Pressure will depend on your air brush set up (gravity vs siphon) and size tip or orafice, and if it is double action vs single. etc. I have used a Paasche siphon feed and 20-30 psi is sufficient for both solvent based and waterbased. That number should translate to most other airbrushes.

Have you used any kind of your own thinner with the SB Coat Clear? I would contact Bruce at LureWorks and let him know about your issue. The SB Coat should be ready to spray out of the can, unless it has set on your shelf for a while or you left the lid off for a time it should spray. The issue of dust as you call it, or cob-webbing as I refer to it means that the paint is drying to quickly, even before it hits the bait. This is to be expected with the solvent based VPI series but the SB Coat is pre-thinned. SB Coat Retarder or SB Coat Thinner will help this issue. As a possible work around you might want to open up you airbrush to move the maximum amount of paint and reduce your air pressure as low as possible. The solvent based paints work better when you push a heavy coat, not so well with feathering. Let us know what you come up with.

Can you be a little more specific? What colors are you using to make bleeding shad as I am not familiar with that combination. I assume you are making a laminate?

What kind of paint are you using?

Their new website is up and running. You might need to change your bookmark as I think the home address has changed slightly. Google search it then re-bookmark.

Nothing beats a good tail shot. But there is an alternate y; dip them in paint. This allows you to shot a solid 1 color bait and then add your color later...any color. Depending the look you want to achieve and the base color of your swim bait you may have to use White paint first as a basecoat then go over that with your final color. Spike-It's Dip-N-Glo Worm Paint is a good place to start. It wont bleed or migrate over time like a dye will, it stays put. In the attached photo you can see from left to right: 1) Watermelon (no dip) 2) Watermelon with Chartreuse Worm Paint 3) Watermelon with Chartreuse Worm Paint with a White Worm Paint base coat laid down first 4) Pearl White (no dip) 5) Pearl White with Red Worm Paint (no base coat needed) Just something to think about.

Yes, for sure it is sprinkled while the bait is still molten. I wonder if this method will it help the bait orientate better when in the water (assuming the open portion of the hand pour mold is the belly.) Meaning having ballast in the belly portion and not the back.

"If you want to get super high tech, use blue and black colors + blue hi-lite" <----- THIS Adding a tint color to any Hi-lite really makes it pop and stand out at low levels. Now whether you prefer a black tint or a blue tint is a personal taste when it comes to Morning Dawn. RoboWorm definitely uses a tint color to make that blue vein shine. For the pinkish-red LureWorks Morning Dawn 160 will do the trick. If you are matching RoboWorm's color they do add salt so that will opacify to color some. Tho it seems like they only add salt to the belly portion. On a side note I would like to see that machine pour those worms. I think that would be interesting to watch.

Looks like its a laminate so it is hard to tell if the "top" color is influencing the "bottom" color. Though it does look quite opaque so I doubt it is an actual dye, probably a pigment.

Hard to tell from that picture. What the Name of the color? Who makes it?

Adding a sparse amount of Black glitter like an 0.040" Hex and shooting would be the easiest and fastest. If your making clusters it should be more forgiving than an individual egg. The issue with a permanent marker is it will bleed and migrate over time. It works great as a field expedient fix but it wont look good after a few days. A more permanent fix would be to use some SB Coat Black Dotting 3022 from LureWorks. If your fine with the dot on the surface of the egg this paint stays put and wont bleed. This gives you an infinite shelf life for your painted baits. If you insist that the black dot be in the middle of the bait then you have your work cut out for yourself.

You will always be more successful softening your formulations rather than hardening them. When you add hardener your adding unprotected resin, meaning there isn't heat stabilizer in the Hardener formulations to protect that resin from scorching during the heating process. So if you do harden a formulation you need to be a little careful when heating and it might require heat stabilizer to be added. As a rule when adding hardener you should be OK going from a Medium to a Medium/Hard. Going from a Medium to a Hard is where you can run into issues. With your premise you will need Plastic, Hardener, Softener, and probably Heat Stabilizer. (4 products) There is more than 1 way to skin a cat but think about this: Option 1) Buy the hardest formulation you will use and Softener. You can just cut back the hard formulation to the softness you want. (2 products only) Option 2) Buy the Soft formulation and the Hard formulation. Blend the two of them at any ratio to get any firmness you want besides Soft and Hard. Depending on your supplier a 50/50 blend of Hard and Soft should give you a decent medium. (2 products only) Since you are custom blending your plastic you are the one you have to please. Only you know what you like and will work best for your baits to maximize action against durability. This winter would be a good time to get a good notebook and pour sample baits based on some custom formulas you can duplicate in the future. Add that 10% Softener to a Medium plastic, wait 24 hours, and test it. Adjust as needed. Once you build your formula library you will always have it and can go back and adjust as needed. Good Luck!

Not very familiar with the "artificial stone" material that they use. I will say this; things like worm oil and most scents have plasticizer in them and using them as a mold release can actually make the baits stick worse in my experience. I have never used Pam before but doesnt the Lecithin they use polymerize and tack up on the bait over time? Seems like the Di-Methyl Silicone they use would make painting a nightmare.

Need a lot more information. 1. Are you using glitter? 2. Where did the purple color come from? 3. Are you using salt? 4. Other than color changing, do the baits feel any different than the first batch? 5. open pour or hand injecting? Usually when plastic burns, regardless of the manufacturer, it doesn't turn grey. It will go amber, then dark amber, then reddish, then black, then your in trouble. Even combined with colorants burnt plastic shouldn't produce a grey color. ( at least not in my experience). In actuality too much heat stabilizer will be incompatible and will milk up in the finished bait.

LureWorks/Spike-It does too. They have two sizes of String Glitter as they call it. 0.125" String and 0.062" String.

For Red Shad you need a Bleeding Red dye color. It gives you the brilliance and transparency that only dyes can do and pigments cannot. Any bleed into the other half of the laminate will be concealed by the Black back. You will need to add some White Pearl to the red belly portion and Bingo, thats Red shad. Use Hi-Lite Blue instead of Pearl White and Bingo, thats Tequila Sunrise. Colorants to use: Cherry Red Dye 120, Pearl White 127 and Hi-Lite Blue 135 if you want Tequila Sunrise. And of course black for the back. Those are LureWorks colorants so if you dont have those you will have to use an equivalent from another manf. If that Berkley worm is a PowerBait dont get to caught up in matching the "dirtiness" the Powerbait additive introduces to a bait. You will drive your self nuts doing that. Good Luck.

Looks like a weak amber color. Loaded with salt which gives it its opaque look and/or air bubbles from open pot hand dip tube. Any idea what Nichols called the color? I would call that Gourd Green or Pumpkin Green Flake. Some possible colorants to consider: Gourd 172, Amber 114, Scuppernong 134, and perhaps SB Yellow 118. Rootbeer 119 might work, you would just have to keep it weak so it doesn't brown up too much. If you dont have any of those in your arsenal then you will have to use an equivalent color from another supplier that is similar to one of those I mentioned. When I ran Pumpkin Green Flake in production I used Kelly Green, it compliments the Yellow shade of the bait real well. But dont let that stop you from using Emerald Green if you already have that in inventory. Glitter size is personal preference and somewhat determined by the size of the bait. Accounting for the color shift caused by salt if you dont plan on using salt is always fun. Good Luck.

It is always hard to tell justk from a photoThere is a good chance that that gold is not a Hi-Lite Pearl but a solid color Gold Pearl, given the transparency. If you want to use a Hi-Lite Gold toss in a touch of black to make it pop. Either way it isn't going to take much pearl powder to get that look whether you use a solid gold pearl or a hi-lite pearl w/touch of black.

Worm Oil is what I would use.

Adding white will milk up the look but often throws off the surface tone and can ruin the color sometimes. You might want to dilute your white before adding it for milking purposes if your working in small batches. Salt does wonders to opacify the undertone without throwing off the surface tone of a color as much as white will, so it can be a better choice sometimes. A fine grade of salt is usually what is used. Search the forum for salt types and youll get plenty of hits and advice on that. Good luck on that Goojoo....er Pidgeon, wait Gudjoe....what the hell is that color again?

For small jobs use this ----------> http://www.ispikeit.com/Store/c-96-fix-a-lure-glue.aspx If your ordering just eyes they can mail them. But the glue like Fix-A-Lure or VPI Glue are flammable and must be shipped ground.

This --------> http://www.ispikeit.com/Store/p-320-uv-glo-dye-130.aspx . Just add it to you existing supply of plastisol, cold or hot, like any other colorant. 7-10 drops per cup (240ml) works well, adjust to your taste. This product can be mailed so you can save on shipping compared to a ground shipment.

This --------> http://www.ispikeit.com/Store/p-623-cotton-candy-165.aspx (glitter not included). Glitter consists of Purple and Moss Green, similar shaded colors will work too like Grape or Emerald Green. Keep in mind that Cotton Candy does have some Fluorescent Pink in it. As with most Fluorescent Pinks they will change to a Blue hue when hot making them look purple. Wait till the bait cools sufficiently before rendering a judgement of whether it is a match or not for your taste. Salt always changes the look so like stated above take that into consideration. Some of Zoom's Lizards are shot on molds that I think are Sand Cast Aluminum so that gives a matte finish which can also affect the finished look compared to a polished mold.

Scuppernong 134 would actually make a very good substitute. It has a reddish tint/shade to it but in comparison to the photo will likely match better than Carolina Pumpkin 102 would. Good Call. Trying to match a color just based on a photo is never an easy task.