AZ Fisher

I use this to fill the holes then sand again, rinse and repeat https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bondo-Glazing-and-Spot-Putty-00907ES-4-5-oz-1-Tube/16927984?classType=REGULAR&athbdg=L1200&from=/search

Not sure why that posted all fragmented

You can find hardware at Lure Parts Online, Barlows and or Jann's Netcraft,, as well as Ebay and Amazon. There are quite a few bait builders on Youtube, check out Engineered Angler, he does pretty thorough job of explaining the how and why of bait building. Check out Tackle Tours article, "Cutting open a $400 bait". They cut open a Roman Made Mother and you can see all the weight placement in the bottom of the bait for reference. Glide baits are about the most difficult baits to get right, they will take quite a bit of testing and experimentation to get a great gliding bait. Keep thorough notes, you will be surprised how much you will refer back to them Good luck and welcome to the forum

Colors above and I would add transparent leaf green and a plum purple...

I use eyescrews anywhere from .062 thru .092 thickness, from 3/4 inch long to 1.5 inch long depending on the size lure. You can find them at Barlows, Lurepartsonline, and Jann's Necraft, all tackle hardware suppliers, or Ebay. I'm making 6-10 inch swimbaits.

There's many ways of making molds and pouring resin baits, this is just what I do. Most of my baits, especially glides, have wider shoulder/back than belly or stomach area. Those wide shoulders create a high/higher center of gravity. When I have an even density pour, meaning MB's{micro balloons} are mixed evenly thru the resin, the bait will want roll from side to side as it swims/glides. I don't want or like that roll in a bait. Hooks, split rings and hook hangers alone, are usually not enough to counter the higher center of gravity. I pour with the molds vertical, belly/hook hangers down, dorsal fin on top. I pour thru a small spru hole on the top of the mold. I place my weights and hook hangers in the bottom of the mold prior to pouring. I pour with the mold on a digital scale so I can pour exact amounts of solid resin to the gram. I mix my resin amount for the whole bait but only pour about 25% solid resin in the bottom of each sections mold, enveloping the weights. I then quickly mix the correct weighed amount of MB's into the remaining resin and fill the molds with the MB'd/less dense resin. This creates a heavier bottom/higher density and a lighter/less dense top of the bait. I find the upward migrating MB's help this process. Unfortunately it also creates lots of bubbles and small surface imperfections in the top/back of the bait that have to be filled. The heavier bottom/lighter top helps the bait orient itself quicker upon splash down/landing and will help the bait swim and glide more upright/ vertical with less or no roll. It also helps the bait swim and cut from side to side better. Engineered Angler on Youtube has some vids on pouring resin baits with MB's, worth the watch. Hope this helps...

Add micro balloons or micro spheres to your resin while mixing. Approx 8% micro balloons by weight for low float, 10% for a very buoyant floating bait, if memory serves

Ebay, Amazon and Aliexpress all carry a variety. Ali used to have the largest selection. Look into fingernail foils also, come in smaller rolls and widths, will cover the sides of smaller cranks, jerks and poppers

If you're looking for really bright florescent coverage, a white undercoat or primer will help greatly, especially with chartreuse. Light coats and heat set in between as mentioned above. I reduce the paints quite a bit for spraying over foil, so I don't kill the shine. Little at a time and heat set. It's easy with reduced paints or transparents to spray it too heavy because you can't see the pigment as well.

Here's one way. I think JR Hopkins had a similar method but used scotch tape to hold the tail's shape, then epoxy into place.

Private group, gotta join, best I can do...

I just saw on FB, on the Lure Making and Painting page, a guy named Dan Schwartz posted how he painted and cleared his chrome, and products he used. Best looking chrome I have seen to date, really pops and the clear doesn't dull the shine.

Yep, it is tin cure, I thought the opposite...