AZ Fisher

Guys, this is a five year old thread and the OP has not been on here in 6 months. Whackett, if you want to reach the OP, send him a PM, that way he gets an email notification he has a message. There are several other posts on turners. (Search lure rotisserie) The motor used looks like a 5-6 rpm, 120v microwave motor, they are available on ebay or I find them used, cheap at a local electronics supplier. Hope this helps.

Hinkles are extremely weight sensitive. The concern with epoxying a Hinkle is the textured scale surface will trap E-tex in the scale pattern and add too much weight. I make a similar size glide and when I dip each half in KBS clear, it adds approx 1 gram of weight to each section of the bait for each dip, and my baits are smooth sided. Couple extra grams and the bait won't swim right. On one of my glides, the difference between slow and fast sink is about a gram. I would spray it with a couple light coats of a sprayable clear so you don't add too much weight. You don't want a bottom rocket. Foil could be problematic because the bait is not flat but has texture, getting a large amount of foil to stick could be hard. You may be able to get foil to stick to the flat, back edges of the scales. Never heard of holo mist, some pearl paint or iridescent highlights would be nice, maybe lay some color shift paint over the dark back of the bait. IMHO, Hinkles drawing power is not as much the paint, but the glide and the amount of water it moves. Andrew has always had kind of a subdued paint job compared to many other makers. I believe to take the bait apart, carefully remove the dorsal fin or peel back the front of the fin. You may have to cut it out with a razor knife. There should be a hinge pin under the fin, if you can get the pin out the bait will come apart. Try not to tear up the fin, although I have seen fin kits avail. If you can't get the bait apart, would def use a spray clear, don't want any epoxy in the joint. Hope this helps and good luck, Hinkles are awesome baits!!

I'll give that a try, thanks!

I use Xylol or Xylene to thin KBS. I would suggest some Bloxygen or related product to help preserve the product when resealing container. The last two containers I bought I had to destroy the can to get them open, so I purchased a case(12) of wide mouth, pint mason jars at WW. I wipe the lid, lip and threads when I'm done dipping, every time to keep the lip of the jar clean. I don't use the plastic wrap, it did not work for me, I just keep the lip and lid really clean. If it ever gets stuck, just poke a couple holes in the lid and drain into a new jar, a case of jars was about 10$. I dip twice, with about four hours in between coats and place them on a turner each time. I get large bubbles around stick on eyes, soon after placing on the turner. So I watch to see if they form so I can pop them, if you can pop the early they will flow out. Not sure if the bubbles are from air trapped under the eye or the excess KBS pooling in the eye socket. I have started to use a small paintbrush to "Pre-moisten" the eye socket area with KBS prior to placing the eye on the bait. By doing this I think I have reduced the amount of large eye bubbles. Do not sand, just dip twice and hang or place on turner. My .02...

I start with a rectangle piece of wood. I draw the outline of the bait on the side of the block. Then I figure where I want my joint and mark it. Then I cut the joint 3/4's the way through on each side of the bait while I still have a square piece of wood to work with. I would cut a lip slot now if you wanted a crankdown. Now start shaping the bait with whatever tools you have at your disposal. I use a band saw to cut out the body shape and then define the rounded contours with a belt sander. When I have the body shaped to my liking, I then start with the detail carving with a razor knife and a wood carving knife set. Cut a tail slot. After all your final carving is done then you can cut the joint the rest of the way thru. You don't have to have these tools as I have seen guys do amazing work with a handsaw and a razor knife. Mark your hinge hardware, hook hangers and line tie and drill. Then need to figure out your ballast, floater, slow sink or suspending and drill the appropriate holes and add your weights. Ballast with all your hardware in place and keep in mind, paint and clear will add several grams to your final weight. If you're making a SS or suspending glide this is important. For glides both halves need to sink at the same rate. With smaller baits it can sometimes be difficult to find room in the bait for all the weights and hardware without running into each other. When you're ready, super glue or epoxy the ballast weights in place and fill the rest of the hole with a body filler or super glue/baking soda mix and sand smooth. Bait needs to be sealed prior to primer, paint and clear. After paint, super glue/epoxy hardware in place and then clearcoat. Hope this helps...

First wash the bait with warm soapy water and thoroughly dry. You'll need to start with a primer that works on plastic. Then paint, then I use two coats of clear. If you are adding your hardware after pouring the resin, I would use D2T epoxy, super glue or Loctite gel, prior to clear coating. This is just what I do, others may have a different process. Here's a pic that shows how hardware can be incorporated prior to pouring. Not my mold, pic for clarification, hope this helps...

Here are a couple threads a quick search turned up... Rustoleum has a matte clear, but there are inherent problems with their clears... chem reaction that sticks to and melts soft plastics and other items...

It's not Feb 1st yet.

google clamshell packaging...print your own placards or info cards for smaller numbers

TW says 4-8 feet

Here are the responses to my ?, from the KBS help desk at KBS.com: " Has your Diamond clear been recently reformulated? In some fishing forums, reports of new yellowish tinted Diamond Clear have been popping up. My Diamond Clear from a couple years ago yellowed when older. my recent can from Oct. was crystal clear. Rumor is the new formula is more shelf stable but has a yellow tint to it. If it's still Diamond Clear, why does it have a yellow tint. Could you please set me straight on this matter, thank you for your time, Will " Kbs help desk response, "Thank you for contacting KBS.... Yes DiamondFinish Clear can sometimes appear slightly yellow when looking at it in the can. The slight yellow is a UV Stabilizer enhancement. You will never see the slight yellow when the product is actually applied at the 5-10 mils Dry Film Thickness as it will appear completely clear even over a brilliant white surface. Thanks for contacting KBS..." My follow up response: "Thanks for your reply. So this isn't a new formula, just a UV enhancer turning yellow or is it now being produced new, from the factory with a yellow tint? Thanks again, Will" KBS response: "Yes, it is the same Diamondfinish Clear formula with a UV enhancer. We have tested it extensively and you can not see it once it has been applied and cured. That said, we may take this enhancement away because it does seem to cause confusion for customers when they see it in the can. Thank you so much..." I guess it depends on how you look at their response. I feel I asked twice if the new stuff was being produced with a yellow tint, with no clear answer other than don't mind the man behind the curtain. In the grand scheme I guess a little yellow doesn't matter much... but it used to be clear, is advertised as crystal clear and now isn't. I guess it's up to the individual consumer if it's cool with them, lots of stuff out there. Forgive me if I seem cynical, been dealing with double talking health ins industry people, well you know...

Welcome! I've never made that style of bait but I learned a lot from watching Larry's how to videos. Lots of info on different lure making processes. Hope this helps some. https://www.makelure.com/store/pg/54-How-To-Videos.aspx#prettyPhoto

My old KBS turned that color when it got old, my recent can from LPO was the clear stuff and I had to destroy the can to get it open. Hadn't heard of a new formula, when was this released, anyone know?

http://swimbaitunderground.com/forums/index.php?/topic/54047-wtt-d-bag-hogg/ This is how Toxic Baits sends his stuff out.

Toothpicks

That just looks like a stencil made those stripes. I think she cuts those out of cardboard. Pellon or wonder web looks more like this 1.5. I shot the black over the other colors after wrapping the bait in the material. You can get Pellon material at Wally World or just save your dryer sheets when your done with them and shoot thru them, it works cool and it's free. You could wrap the bait with the WW and then place a stencil over it a shoot for a cool effect. I shot these gill's stripes with Darise mesh under a stencil.

https://cedarrunoutdoors.com/bulk-hooks/

These are what I have been using...if you search a little I'm sure there is a 7-8 rpm as well, hope this helps https://www.ebay.com/itm/49TYZ-A2-AC-220-240V-4W-5-6-RPM-CW-CCW-Synchronous-Motor-For-Microwave-Oven-Tool/332910612887?hash=item4d8304d197:rk:4:pf:0

and from the desert...

I did some more searching on Swimbait Underground. It seems most are not clear coating the silicone shell. Just painting to outer shell and going with it. Several threads about how someone tried to clear with epoxy and it never dried/cured and remained sticky. I thought I had read before somewhere where someone was having luck painting these with a lacquer based paint, don't know if they cleared them or not. Supposedly the lacquer paint chemically adhered better to the silicone shell, don't know if it's true and can't seem to find that info again . Many are stripping the paint from the outer skin, adding foil or paint to the hardbody underneath, replacing the shell and a small amount of detail to the outer shell.

Here's a couple things from Youtube on 250's

This is the only place I have seen them. You might post this in the Wire Baits forum for more info. https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-xps-metal-worm-rattle