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Thanks. I am very interested in underpins and still learning. Did yours swim in the direction of the hook?

Nice work uttexas. I modified the following spro jigs last year. Thru trial and error I found the location/size of blade to be critical. For me the major adjustment was to move the wire forward. If the blade runs too far aft of line tie the jig will swim in the direction of the wire arm and not in the direction of the hook. If this is an issue bend/move the wire in the direction of the jig head & or down size blade.

I like it I think it would be a great tutorial. If it were me I would just post a few pictures and keep it simple though.

Wow pretty neat. ...I like it. What are your plans for the remaining corks?

Pop try this link in Gallery http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/tags/iron mike streamer/

Ces you are correct oils are something you can't see so it's easy to overlook them.

You are right about the ribbing. Good eye I didn't see that until you mentioned it. Probably makes the body material stronger and adds a little more flash. I posted a picture of one I made in the Gallery today without the rib.

I ordered 2x and was happy with product/shipping both times. Ed is helpful and good to talk to.

Lisa & Ed's eyes always has what I need and reasonable too. I believe they are also one of our advertisers. Give them a call, they take paypal. http://lisaandedseyes.ipage.com

Found clearer pictures tied in White, Black or Olive www.fishusa.com/product/Lively-Legz-Iron-Mike-2-Pack This is how I would tie it. Hook: Streamer long shank Size 8 Tail: Marabou Body : Dubbing, Yarn or Chenille Wing: Pearl Angel Hair (a very fine mylar) tied on top Side Cheeks: Mallard duck Flank Feathers Head: Tungsten, etc depending on desired weight

Do you get any puddling of PC on end product after baking? Thanks for the info. Been wondering how well this would work to spray the backs of bucktail jigs a darker contrasting color of PP?

Do you get any puddling of PC on end product after baking?

Thanks BLT, good guess. What's wrong with 90?

I like em.. first class work work jigtierje I assume you do all your work, what mold do you use?

Anglinarcher is right the best teacher is practice. The best results I get are with Etec (Envirotec Lite). You can get it at AC Moore with a 50% off coupon. I put just a very small amount on the brush at a time and drag the epoxy from left to right until the lure is completly covered. If you want you can go back with a dryer brush and remove any excess epoxy from line ties, hook hangers, around eye sockets etc. Lastly put the lure on the turner where the E-tec continues to level out. Because E-tec is thin and has a long open time the leveling process allows it to cover evenly. Whatever epoxy you use put it on thin and choose one with enough open time for it to level out. Good Luck.

Understand, maybe save these for bass fishing. Who knows you may be on to something. I found this in the archives...hope this helps.

Just a thought. Wouldn't alot of bubbles cause the lure to float and be a good thing? You know when life gives you lemons just make lemonade. . . Ha Ha!

Glad you asked, I've been interested too. Found this ...... http://blog.lurepartsonline.com/wordpress1/how-to-paint-a-crankbait-using-the-crackle-method/

Thanks.

What is max temp it can withstand?