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What are your thoughts for using on 3/4 to 2oz size smiling bill or spro type salt water jigs?Found these at Home Depot after a thorough search. KNIPEX 6-1/4 in. 85° Angle Diagonal Flush Cutters Model: 72 21 160 Product details Diagonal provides a fully flush cut when cutting tie-wraps, plastic, soft metals and molded plastic components from spruces. The 85° angled head provide better visibility and increased cutting access.

Looks like these will work and at a great price. Definitely stronger than most I have seen or used. Do these require much sanding or filing after cutting sprues?

That's exactly what I'm looking for something heavier. The little gate shears just don't work for me. We don't have a Hobby Lobby do you have the part number or who makes it?

nedyarb and jig man have you ever used gate shears on saltwater jigs? Say around 3/4 to 2oz size smiling bill or spro.

Limpnoodle thanks for all the info, sounds like you have been doing this for awhile.

Limpnoodle is hard lead less prone to flashing? When spin casting is cleanup easier because spru can be made smaller?

Dave good point, no gloves have an added benefit too as it's easier to transfer gigs. I was originally thinking it could be built to look like a sandblasting enclosure. Do you use a recovery system similar to this?

When you use wheel weights does the spru twist off easier for you?

JBlaze & Andy 1976 thanks for the tips. Do you guys only use hard lead for your jigs?

Yep scientific stuff makes perfect sense to me. I got a good visual of the recovery system. Maybe a modification to your current system is in order. Could you enclose all sides with particle board, except make the front out of plexiglass. Then cut two holes in the plexiglass and attach a glove at each hole (seal around gloves). You may also need a damper in the particle board near the plexiglass to compensate for the air flow created by the fan. A simple damper can be made from a piece of cardboard attached with one screw and allowed to swing over hole to slow or speed up the air flow.

Devcon 2 ton, correct? Where did you buy your powder paint air brush? Did you make your own recovery system and how is that done? So many questions...lol..thanks in advance for your help.

When creating a mold for a bucktail type jig head. Will the mold fill properly if the spru is located at the rear of the jig tail? I am thinking where the hook exits. The advantage for having the spru located here eliminates the need to remove any remnant of lead.

I do not have hard lead, but would a spru break off and look cleaner in the bending left and right method if I were to use hard lead?

After I mold a jig with pure lead the spru is removed. One method I use to remove the spru is: Hold the spru firmly and by bending the jig back and forth the spru is removed. The only issue I have is the jig has a divit on the head. The divit is noticible after painting and looks bad. A second method to remove the spru is with a wire stripper side cutter. After trying several cutters I have found this removes the majority of the spru. To finish I hold the hook in a shop vise and remove the remaining remnamt with a file and sandpaper. Would a harder lead work better? Anyone have a method to share that is easier?.

NP I was mainly interested in the powder paint job. Oh yea how do you do the eyes and do you epoxy over them?

Wow nice job! Thanks for posting.

I didn't see your link with your set up on the previous post. I see what you are doing now, and BTW Nice lures you made. The Whip Finish will definitely work. Another option is Lefty Kreh's Loop Knot or also called the Non-Slip Mono Knot. Knothttp://www.animatedknots.com/nonslipmono/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

Basseducer sounds like you have had alot of practice with multiple colors. Could you post a picture of that one to help me visualize.

Could drill rod sprayed with graphite mold release work? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/763758/frankford-arsenal-drop-out-bullet-mold-release-agent-and-lube-6-oz-aerosol

A blood knot is what you are looking for to tie your two lines together. Fly guys use it for this purpose all the time.

Thanks for getting back to me. I went with Ty-vek on the cups and glued with RTV. It worked first time and achieved a much thinner coating than dipping in the jar. As far as humidity I have heard to store paint in a cool air conditioned space because P/P is hydroscopic or has an affinity for water. FYI: I have since found out that Tyvek is a spun olefin (poly) The best glue to use is PVC pipe cement because both materials melt into each other. If purchasing a new can get the all purpose (ABS/PVC/CPVC). Use with adequate ventilation.

Step 1 Hold hook with one plier while heating jig and only heat enough to make paint stick. step 2 Grab eye with second plier that is cool and dip in powder paint. Goal: Keeping temp low and using second pair of pliers acts as a heat sink and prevents paint from sticking on eye. Bake in oven till done. .....Problem Solved....

Post Office Tyvek, Cup, & Lid I put a small champher on the edge of the cup before gluing by scraping a utility knife around the circumference. I was suprised when I trimmed the Tyvek closely with a sharp pair of scissors I didn't need to sand the edge.

Yes either tanned or cured will work. All I ever use are the cured ones, which I buy or cure myself. The e-bay items you show are perfect for the job. I have purchased some from e-bay and they were fine.

Tanned ones cost more because it requires more labor and chemicals. All I ever use are the cured ones, which I buy or do myself. Bottom line it doesn't matter they all make great jigs. The e-bay items you show are perfect for the job.