The caps are actually called test caps and can be found at any plumbing supply. Lowes and Home Depot have them.For the cups use 3 inch diameter schedule 40 PVC pipe cut to length usually 4 inch. Then glue on Tyvek, trim and sand to fit.
Great post by all. Cadman I just finished my first fluid bed today and I am waiting for the adhesive to dry. Hope to fire it up and paint about 70 jigs a white pearl basecoat tomorrow. I am using the Tyvek with the printing side inward.
How did the Tyvek work for you thru the four seasons and humid conditions?
Starting point for discussion:
We will start by using Wheel Weights to increase hardness. Many of us use them as a source of Antimony and they are either free or cheaper than pure lead.
lets say we are molding 3/4 oz gigs and larger.
What % of WW's do you recommend adding and why?
What are Pros and Cons associated with increasing the hardness of lead.
Fluxing Mold fill Prone to sticking in mold Mold flash Temperature of lead mixture Harder end product Powder coating
Melt Temp
Lead = 621 F
Antimony = 1,167 F
TIn = 449 F
Thanks for the info regarding wheel weights. One of the local shops here said I could have as much as I want for free.
I will be molding 3/4 to 3 oz bucktail jigs.
Current soft lead inventory is about 150# which I can mix. I have read others use as much as a 25% pure lead to 75% W/W mix. What are your thoughts about mix ratio?
That makes sense zinc melts at 784F lead at 620F. The Zinc wouldn't be hot enough to become liquid and would make the batch thicker.I saw a lead batch after someone left an aluminum dross tool fall in. It must have been in for 24 hours and was mixed with the lead. The lead resembled a thick cake frosting.
If Zinc got in my lead I would raise temp and mold sinkers until it was all gone.
Good to know about the different polishing media (just thought...maybe comet cleaner will work too).
Never thought about lead releasing easier as a side benefit to polishing.
I guess by being smoother the surface has less nooks and crannies for lead to stick to. Probably why older used molds work better as "painter 1" stated.
Makes sense to use two mold so neither one get too hot. I think your resin has a higher use temp, so I will use that.
Thanks for the photo link....nice work.
Do you have any pictures of your molds?
jcool3 thanks for the info and great tips.
Sounds like this stuff can take a beating from the heat. Also seems like an easy material to use all around. I will be molding up to 3 oz of lead and letting the mold cool before the next pour.
Was hoping to find a material for a mold that will last for a couple hundred pours and I think you found it.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks, I am new to using silicone molds and want to make some saltwater type buck-tail molds.
I want to mold bullet jigs with collar in sizes 1/2 oz to 3 oz lead.
Do you think if I allow the mold to properly cool that I should get at least 100 pours of the 3 oz size before the mold needs replaced?
bass100 thanks for the quick response.
The data sheet says the temp range for Alumilite-s-High-Strength-2.aspx is 395 F. Since lead melts at 621F, what is your process to mold lead and prevent damage to the mold?
jcool3 thanks for the quick response.I like your idea to use Legos for the mold form.
The 1364 60 shore A Data Sheet says use temp is 450 F.
Since solder temp is 620 F can continuous molding be done without damaging the mold?