uncustered

While I agree the rap isn't the best lure to cast, you maybe using too stiff a rod. I use a p842 popping blank, built spinning and it loves raps...

I use a soldering station that has the adjustable alligator clips for painting and epoxy like Mark said...

To make the concave face I use a ball rasp in my bench press.

Interesting... I consider tuning to be a part of your overall design and build, for example my rods for fishing slop and grass have larger eyes. Making sure you use the spline properly to prevent twist (a big deal with a deep cranking rod) Another example is refining guide spacing to prevent bite or shock leader knots from slapping the guides. I've got a friend who spent 4 hours playing with guide size and spacing just for that. Tuning the action by sanding or removing the finish (blank alterations other then cutting the blank) would be an intense step and beyond my skill set....

Man I learn a bunch reading posts like this. Ya'll are a national treasure....

i purchased a cheap airbrush from harbor freight for basecoating.

Dave, I just got to watch the video. You should charge $$ for that. That was the most complete "how to" on lure building I've ever seen. Awesome. Thank you!!!!!

Is that wood? If so, what type? And where they circuit board lips?

Very cool explanation!!!

Dupont started in 1802 producing gun powder in Delaware. In 1902 they started producing dynamite.

That one I hadn't heard. ... I thought you snelled a hook to put the connection between line and hook on the hook shafts to protect it from fish teeths.....

Very interesting read. .. My only comment on the drum is that doesn't explain the leopard puppies we see in NC with 20 or more spots. I've seen adult drum with multiple spots. Fwiw, imho, the kill dot simply creates added contrast to assist the predator in seeing the bait so they can react. Unless we want to add the concept of "intelligent design" where the great "Is" (keeping it secular here) gave shad to largemouth and added the dots to help the bass see lunch. ....

Now that's putting yourself into your work. ...

Dave, I love reading a literate argument from an knowledgeable author... Your writing so clearly defines what your saying I can picture the concept as I read. Y'all are making this country boy alot smarter. Thanks!!!

Wow..... If you come to the NC beaches and that top lure is missing, I didn't take it. Pretty work!!!

Many Hobby stores have balsa in chunks rather then the sheets

Lower the pressure and slow down.... That's what worked for me...

Michaels craft stores have Nice inexpensive selection of wire forming tools..

One other consideration is making sure that the belly hook is protected by the lip to prevent/reduce snagging on grass or wood... An example is the strike king kvd 1.0/1.5/2.5 series. They are designed to knock wood without getting hung up. How you plan to use the lure has to be included in hook selection.

Has anyone tried to make a curved bill like the rapala scatter series? Can you heat and permanently reshape the circuit board? How would you make one??

I'm sure you could Google wood screw tensile development to come up with a standard. In wood, I use the longest up to 1" I can get by with based on lure design. When I'm using a dowelled screw for the rear hook on balsa lures I stick with 3/4 to reduce added weight on the back end of the lure to minimize impact on action....

I talked to LPO yesterday and they admitted that there are procurement problems with the circuit board lips. He also told me that they were looking for a new source and may start making their own....

I've done a bunch of civil projects using some serious epoxies and I worked with the Virginia transportation research council setting up the original specifications in the early 90's... Primary reasons for epoxy failure: 1. Improper purportions. Make sure you used a graduated vessel and closely monitor amounts, some epoxies are less tolerable then other of volumetric changes. 2. Improper mixing. Make sure you don't short cut mixing times. 3. Temperature. It can matter. Putting cold epoxy on a hot surface will accelerate cure times. 4. Storage/ shelf life. Once opened some materials are not tolerant of severe temperature fluctuations during storage. 5. Unclean surfaces. As seen on the big dig ceiling panels. The epoxy mated to the dust in the holes rather then the concrete, therefore they did not get adherence to the concrete. There's more I'm sure. Hope this helps.

Cool idea....

Once you've crossed to the dark side of tackle tinkering, there ain't a 12 step program that'll save you.....