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Hi Dave Thanks for sharing the excel, will start working on same. I have some lure blanks to finish, will try to use the excel. Regards, Raghubir

Hi Pete They are Fantastic Lures, speaks to your passion. It adds to the discussion visually more , additionally gives us an opportunity to see your talent. Well done. Regards, Raghubir

Hi Dave, Me too I would like to try, could you please share calculator on my following email id. sudanraghu2210@hotmail.com Thanks & Regards, Raghubir

Thank you so much Bobp & Chuck for your prompt information. I got confused, all my lures are made from yellow pin, same design, bib angle (40 degree), through wiring, split rings & trebles an d weight almost same as 24/25 gms. I need not have to worry on the sitting position on the surface of water because almost all my lures sit nicely and 90 degree to the surface after i test them once curving is finished . Few sit head down as i have placed blast in the front of belly eye and these gives good action compared to those where i have not placed a single blast. The following 3 lures are weight in chin and are fast sinking, on reteriving they move head down with rarer side to side action. Here is link to the action of the lure : In the 2nd pics i have weighted them, pink color gives more action compare to mackeral pattern lure. Here is the link of the test video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bNfQzZ6Oq0 Got balsa wood for the first time and working on the design, since itsvery buoyant compared to other timber thaught of getting advice on weighing and its role. Could you please advise on the causes and how i can acheive both head to tail side to action as most of lure makers are able to acheive. Thank you so much, Regards, Raghubir

Hi, I have been looking around to find answers to some of my quries, i am into the addiction of timber lure making as hobby. Spend 9-10 hours on job and remaining hours on lure making and love wood carving. 1). does lure requires weight even whenit sit horizontal on the water surface and gives a good head to tail side to side action. Does it requires to sink down the lure slowly or fast either way to reach at the depth of getting the target species of fish. 2). i have seen in majority of lure making tutorials the weight is placed one at front and other at rarer of belly eye. In some cases 2 weights at front and one or 3 at the rarer of belly eye. What function it gives to the lure apart from balancing. 3).what action of the lure is expected if i put 2 gm weight in the front and .5gm to 1 gm at the rarer of belly weight. (more weight in the front & less at the rarer of belly eye) It has been proved that - line tying, bib shape , angle of bib, design of lure affects / give action to the lure but i would appreciate if someone share his experience or resource which will help me to clear what functionality of weighing a lure apart from balancing and acheiving depth. Thanks, Regards, Raghubir

I regret for very late replying, because i was going through another challenging task of saving my job here in Dubai. Thank you all for your feedback, infact there is saying "need is the mother of invention" so here we are. Commercially available scroll saw here in UAE are very expensive and cannot think of buying one for my hobby. Thaught better to do something at a very low cost, collected idea from various sources and started the project. It was challenging because i have zero knowledge of carpentory work, i finished few lure as follows:

Thanks Bobp for your views and tips. What my worry is without correcting it if the use the lure it may not last longer since there are some fisheyes which may distory the surrounding epoxy coat. Thanks, raghubir

Thanks BobP for your tips & suggesting the post, will go through the same now . Regards, Raghubir

Thanks buddy Will follow as advise. Regards, Raghubir

Hi guy's thanks for the suggestion, advise and probably cause of problem. What glider said was correct: - I did first coat of epoxy after putting foil and then applied color - 2nd it is also correct I put more color to hide the foil on the belly. (I used jacquard colors which comes is pre reduced form but are too thin to apply single coat unlike createx) - 3rdly I gave enough time for drying 24 hrs before applying ET . Do I need to apply epoxy to the affected part only after light sandling to save my hard work ( it's a pain to loose lure after so much hard work) I notice one thing after applying coat to whole lure everything was Ok for some time and gradually it stated and I thaught may be epoxy is getting dry up I use more hot air with my hair dryer. May be this has worsen the things. Will try as suggested, glider you have G8 experience and hit correctly how I may have done the coat. thanks once again glider, Wayne and 21xdc for your prompt suggestion will try tonight. Regards, Raghubir

Hi I am in the process of completing another 3 lures, while doing top coating with envirotex lite I came across following problems not able to sort out. How I did it ; First I clean the lures with rubbing alcohol and put them on my drying wheel. Mixed resin & hardener thoroughly for 4 minutes before applying on the lure and start my drying wheel. After 15 minutes I use hair drier to blow away air bubbles if any. Kept the lures on drying wheel for 4-5 hours and then stop keeping the lures still on the drying wheel for curing. The coat was uneven at all the places with small pots and lumps at few places. After 72 hours I sanded the lures lightly and tried putting thick coat and the end result top & sides of lures were nicely finished but the belly is in bad shape with pots at few places & lumps. Here are the pictures : Would appreciate if some one advise me where I went wrong and how to correct the belly now. Thanks & Regards, Raghubir

Hi Stretcher Rockwell tool is also fantastic, at the cost of $99 its not available in Dubai and if i buy online end up paying heavy customs. Here normal scroll saw are available costing $500 plus and what i made cost me only $50 and time. Thanks, Raghubir

Hi I want to share my home made Scroll Saw from jigsaw, it works fine and as expected. It was amazing journey of last 6-8 months to reach a final mile stone. As history tells us that need is the mother of all inventions which proved true in my case as well. By mistake I purchased Jig saw with a view to cut timber as well as profile for the wood lures. I tried a lot with jigsaw but could not handle it even while cutting the timber for lures forget about cutting out profile of the lures. This was a great set back for me and spend good time on internet to find any source which can give me some idea to utilize my jigsaw to lure making. Got great idea from the videos posted by Paoson woodworking and Sergio Acuna Padin on YouTube. I am not a carpenter, but through resource online I could make the body for my scroll saw and again got struck as how to mount the upper arm to hold the blade as well as adopter for jigsaw on other side. Could not find any good source online and started trying on a piece of paper with some ideas using basic common sense. Made arm spring with welding steel wire in order to give tension and for the jigsaw adapter I cut my jigsaw blade to suitable length. Now the challenge was to drill a hole in the blade to make connection of scroll saw blade. The blade of jigsaw is made up of hard steel which cannot be drill through and it will break. I lost few blades in doing so and then thought of getting it done from a workshop. They also broke few blades while trying to drill hole and finally they heat the blade and succeeded in making hole. I spend lot of time in understanding and trying to develop my own idea for the adapters at both the end and finally the day has come to run my home made scroll saw made from jigsaw. Still I need to do final touch up here and there but functionally it works great. I cut first profile of lure today and also bib slot on the same with bib cutting jig made as per Paul Adam tutorial. Here are few Pictures of the same, you see the actual working on you-tube here is the link: Thanks, Raghubir

Thanks buddy, thats what i was looking for. Great tips will follow. Regards, Raghubir

Thanks BobP, for sharing your first hand experiences, do these colors needs special precaution while handing them. I do the same way, MonteSS. Thanks for be there for the help, I have very limited experience of painting lures with airbrush. So far could manage to paint 5-6 lures, sometimes Opaque white gets thin and most of the time not. I have seen that its basically used to paint the belly of the lure. You know when you have carved a great lure are not able paint it because of color in-spite of all option and end up spoiling the bait its so frustrating. Y'day i was trying to paint belly of lure with opaque white but when the color decided that it will not get thin and flow through brush, i end up painting belly with yellow transparent color. Hi, gliders me too. Yes i was looking for a group which gives me some ideas and advice on using airbrush & colors specifically and found this group meeting my expectations. Regards, Raghubir