gliders

Final report, i mentioned in earlier post about possible reaction with this particular epoxy and cedar, however i said i had used on cedar and set solid. The reason i mentioned this was because at the back of my mind i remembered when i was using it to seal a few meranti and cedar blanks when i first tried it about 2 years ago,although it worked well and was bullet proof, i remembered on one cedar blank in particular it reacted horribly, like fish eyes ×10. I put this down to contaminated mix at the time. So, while putting few more screws in yesterday with e-tex for final test ,i smeared a few bits of cedar and pine including original test piece with said industrial epoxy just in case. Well guess what - it cured solid on all, except the original test piece, which basically was 1 big uncured fish eye ! ,so it was reaction with that particular epoxy to that particular cedar. And the 2 screws set with e-tex ?- both sheared with absolutely no movement . I'm glad i done test now,and will continue with epoxy for screws and bibs, just not that one, the only reason i used that epoxy in test was because i had some mixed. At least i know not to use that product on cedar . ..glider.

Thanks for that ben.

Hey centigrade, if you are still waiting on bit's and bobs and still looking to do holo scales, i done a couple of experimental patterns while doing a small batch of other lures.If it's of any use to you I will post tomorrow evening. I dont use transparent blanks so won't be exactly what your after. I fancied them on foiled pattern though ,so done a couple of simple foiled patterns to try method and get impression of effect. On turner at moment and the scales really do catch the eye. If still interested let me know and i will post tomorrow evening with method i used. Also I'm not sure if it's o.k to show pic's here because it illustrates the subject, I deliberately made the 2 patterns simple and spartan just in case,however I have no problem if someone would advise they should go in gallery .regards,glider.

Hence the reason i fitted as i normally do travis, hole diameter big enough to be almost able to push in,in fact i just pushed 1 in with pliers and no great pressure needed. C.a.glue used was thick viscosity. If e-tex also fails under similar pressure i wil consider using purely for screws in future, there's more than enough working time for just screws, and all sheared with no help from excess round eye. My only worry would be some c.a.glue aint waterproof, easily remedied -use waterproof c.a., or dab on bit epoxy over cured c.a. I done test to prove to myself epoxy was inherently stronger in this application !

Quick update, 2 that were given extra 12 hrs - c.a.glue - sheared, epoxy - screwed out !,2 left to test with e-tex later.

Likewise bobp, used to make rough and ready wood salmon lures,almost semi - disposable, 30years ago,and in recent years for other species. Never had one come out. Have seen a couple commercially made lures eyes loosen with fish thrashing in net. For reason's you mention, I use epoxy and fit hardware and lip at same time. Was just to see what happened after previous similar thread,and happened to be fitting screw eyes when it came to mind and had bit epoxy leftover. Left a couple in ,and added 2 more with e-tex ,test them later. Like I say,done on a whim, have to say though, i was surprised by strength of bond particularly cause it was cedar, i thought that would favour the epoxy over say a more dense wood such as beech say. Anyway ,was bit of fun and will report final test in 12 hrs. Regards, glider.

I'm guessing either not cured long enough or reaction of this particular epoxy with cedar. I have used this on cedar previously though, and you would have take a hammer and chisel to shift it ! Any thoughts?

Either seal and sand ,or use steel wool ,this cuts the fibres rather than abrading thèm off, you could singe them also, wire wool should do trick though. Hope helps.

Stuck another 2 in with envirotex i had mixed for couple of lures.

O.k guys, the result,but first i am going to say i don't believe my eyes, and i mean i literally don't believe my eyes, i think the test will have to be done again and i dont know if i want to destroy more screws. Anyway, done 1st c.a.glue with lowest torque setting - sheered the screw but could feel it taking lots of pressure 1st, done at very slow speed so as not to just crack seal. Done 1st epoxy next, unscrewed without damage but took reasonable pressure. Done 2nd c.a.glue by hand with pliers--took a lot of pressure and ruined screw. Done 2nd epoxy next,same method- took reasonable pressure but nothing like as much as c.a.glue, screw undamaged . I have left 1 of each untouched to test tomorrow in case epoxy not completely cured, but kept some of mix and seems pretty cured to me. So, I have to say I'm very surprised by this ,it is possible the epoxy is not cured. Maybe i should try another epoxy, but this is super strong industrial epoxy. Anyhow there it is for what it's worth.

Will get done in few hrs guy's, painting at minute. Let me know if simple tests i suggested seem reasonable and will check in ,in a few hours,cheers.

Not yet dale, and c.a.glue it is from now on,I didn't even know super glue was a brand, just what we in u.k call any c.a glue! And good you are 1 of few with cajones to give your prediction, either that or nobody's interested, is a pretty pointless exercise i know, just a bit of fun after the chore of fitting lure hardware with some leftover epoxy. Will test later as epoxy used is slow cure. One other issue, I have no idea what in terms of actual lbs or kilos force the numbers on my driver equate to. So, as its not to serious an experiment should i just post the numbers on driver? Or test a few by hand/feel? I could but in vice ,put bar through eye and add weights. I would like to keep it simple though, what do you guy's think?

O.k guys i will report back in 24 hrs, i know I've edited my posts,but i am going all in,epoxy has to be stronger, it has to be.

For the record,I used well known brand glue and top quality (and expensive !) Swiss made industrial epoxy.

Dale i don't know what you mean about epoxy and cyanoacrylate being the same,surely different chemical make up. I may be wrong dale ,but i think our epoxies are thermoset and cyanoacrylate thermoplastic ? Any chemists?

My head says epoxy,my heart says i wonder?

Hi guys,Just fitting a load of screw eyes and bit epoxy left so decided wee experiment. I always use epoxy and always will. Several reasons, cleans better, fit my bibs at same time and i think stronger. This is not a test of straight pull because i know both would hold rediculous weights, just a test ot torque or what force required to loosen. I have left eyes 3mm short of fully in and removed excess glue to eliminate glues acting against round eye part. So just a simple test of torque strength. Test piece is even grained w.r.cedar,nice wide straight grain. All screws in same line between grains. 40mm screws, holes drilled so just too tight to push in and slightly short. Glues poked in holes and smeared on screws (my normal procedure ) enough in all so that excess came out . Now i know most leave excess around eye to stop rotation but i just wanted to know if there would be much difference in mechanical bond strength. I will leave 24 hrs and test by removing with torque driver and increasing torque till failure. I have done 3 of each. I think the epoxy will be stronger, but will it? Place your bets if interested (you better be ,this took 10 times longer to type than setup experiment and i just typed all this already and deleted it instead of posted it!) So no cheating and trying first ,lets have some predictions, just a bit of fun.

Yes dale, i am sure it has to be connected with how the colour blue appears when affected by water colour (peat stained ,like whiskey), and/or low light levels-(hi. U.v levels ?). The fact it seems to work on another species (pike as opposed to trout) in waters with similar stained water points to this being the reason. Do you bass and musky guys find patterns with blue in them more effective than other colours at any time? If so have you noticed any constants for when they work? Like water colour or light levels.

I clicked on that rate topic star thing at top of page to see what it was, and seems i gave myself some gold stars ! Didn't mean it and should have looked to see what is was first, man syndrome- if you see a button,press it and see what it does,then read instructions! Oops. (Might award myself some more,it felt good)