gliders

Hats off for wading in musky glen, hope you got on chest waders!

Agree completely bob p. I'm glad I got my system sorted, but must be confusing to guy's starting, called the learning process I guess. Regarding wading turbulent waters, your right, Thats why I passed the buck! I'm going wading later but in calm waters only, for pike!

Your probably right mark, could be tricky! Maybe your the man for the job , and while your at it you could sort out the fluorescence/phosphorescent white issues while you're at it! ........cheers.

Chuck sent that previous to your last post.are these not phosphorescent as opposed to fluorescent?

Standard fluo acrylic airbrush paints go through airbrush, the problem I see is if the white is opaque, u.v can only effect fluo particles on surface, would that be enough? not so sure. Still think clear fluo solution over white might be only possibility. Interested to hear how you get on though.

Woodieb8 gave me good sound advice regarding primers etc.,when I was looking at options for doing multiple big wood baits to streamline process and maximise durability. Proven to be sound advice.now go etex, b.i.n, paint,etex.holds up as good as I've seen. Never got on with dipping the big lures though, but h.v.l.p gun excellent.

I think it would be useful to have a definitive list/explanation of what exactly is what when it comes to the make up of the paints, primers etc.we use. For instance in u.s it seams laquer based means solvent based , but not alcohol based, whereas I would call alcohol a solvent...etc. if you look at various wood/model/craft forum's around the world it definitely causes confusion. Sure it could be useful for clarity.

Gino, I've been spraying thinned zinsser bin through h.v.l.p gun onto epoxy sealed lures for last 12 months alongside lures primed with auto primer which I always used. Used lots to destruction (pike) , I have had no issues with the bin and the ease of doing several large lures at a time is useful. Works out well cost wise also. Never had problem with auto primer spray can except going through lots of cans. I was intending to try auto lacquer primer through gun but been happy with the performance of bin.

Didnt realise you wanted glow in the dark paint chuck, but incidentally I have actually fished in the river strontian , at strontian village where strontium was discovered, in daylight and darkness and caught .......very little !...... did not try glow in the dark flies or lures for the sea trout there though!

What I should have said is fluorescent does indeed glo, but only when it is being activated by u.v, whereas phosphorescent will continue to glo in darkness if charged with light.fluo white does tend to fluoresce blue/violet.When I think about it we use fluo white a lot in fly-tying for that eye popping white, but dont hear much used for hard lures.White being a major trigger colour in lots of lures, it does make sense to try fluo white.

You may have to make your own using fluorescent particles in clear media applied over white, this would fluoresce blueish/violet. Fluorescent paint doesn't glow , it reflects light differently and appears to glow. It is most noticeable when exposed to u.v rays. Fluo colours often appear brightest in evening because of high u.v levels. In darkness with no u.v ,fluorescents won't fluoresce.You can check how strong your fluorescence is with a 'black light' bulb , I've used one for years when dying materials for fly tying, mine is a small pen like torch available cheaply. Worth getting one just to see you're fly or lure boxes light up in darkness when exposed to it if you use fluo a lot!

With envirotex I find 7hrs ample turning time, however it wont be hard at that point ,but won't sag either. I can actually stop at 6 hrs no prob usually, but why chance it for an hour more!

Bob p. Spot on, symmetry is key. Whatever you take off one side, take off the other side etc. Making template's of top view, bottom view and side view is a good idea, then make templates of where you will remove material.this promotes good symmetry. Also if you decide on balsa you will have to thru wire for hardware , depending on size of lure you might want to consider cedar as an alternative as you can use screw eyes with cedar. Not used p.v.c personaly .

Good quality foil tape with backing works very well, in fact it has advantages. You can draw and cut shape on backing paper, cut shape out with backing still on, and you can apply scale patterns etc.prior to applying to lure. Also easier to apply to lure by attaching foil at one end and slowly remove backing as you go. Each to his own though!

Thanks mark, will give it a try.

Apologies if wrong place to ask, but wondered how to upload pics of lures. Do I just upload to gallery under hard baits in categories? help appreciated,!

Also find split ring pliers useful, however to get a nice clean look you can add screw eyes last . Drill hole slightly bigger and epoxy in, epoxy will seal bait no problem. You can also add hardware before final topcoat to get best of both options. Obviously doesnt apply if using blank with hardware fitted or thru- wired.

Go for it eyecatcher! Good luck and let us know how it goes.

You make some wild looking lures! Nice art.

Like woodieb8 says, be a lot easier and cheaper to buy old stock. The rapala is balsa and you will have a long and expensive learning curve reproducing that if you've never made lures! Might be best to have a try with balsa first and see how you get on, there's a bit more to making lures than meets the eye. Good luck if you go for it ,but forget the idea of saving money short term.

P.s it wasnt 5 minute d.c by accident?

If fish eyes, contaminated surface ,uncured paint or not properly mixed , make sure epoxy room temp also.my guess contaminated surface.

Lure parts online gino.

I recommend starting with primary colours and learn how to mix them to make any colour you want,ideally get them in transparent and opaque, add a few metalics and pearls , opaque black and white, and transparent black.you can make any colour with these, add some fluorescent colours and you have a good base.

Google rapala x-ray , you will see ballast and thru wire for ssr.