gliders

Cw venture tape works well.

Dear god no! A picture of lure, I've seen women like that in the highlands, there scary.

A picture of lure would help.

When I start to design a new lure, be it glider, crank or whatever, first thing I do is start with a straight line then draw shape.Use this line to mark off ballast , lip angle etc.use this as template or copy onto whatever your using as template.

If anyone looking for a new motor,its worth having a look at 60ktyz synchronous motors.Can be bought direct from china or from amazon. Available in various r.p.m, powerful and reliable.

Appreciated ,cheers

Dave is spot on,sussed this year's ago when epoxy started being used in fly tying,people thought they could use epoxy instead of lead to make diving or fast sinking flies,in fact in most cases it actually made them sink slower due greater surface area.A gram of epoxy is not like a gram of lead!

Just to add.the reason I didn't like nail foil glue is because it's meant to be able to be peeled off.

O.k here is s 2nd part,foil placed on lure shiny side up,then using screw eye for support ,rub foil firmly with cloth.now rip off like band aid.Cover rest of lure in same manner.Then go over any spots you missed in same way.lure is now ready to etex as you are coating an untouched ,uncontaminated surface and it takes perfectly to foil.The crucial thing is your surface is smooth before foil but I find one coat e.tex ideal.hope this helps.cheers

Pick a doll, here's how I do it.blank lure sealed and lure holder in place,also long screw eye partially inserted,dab of super glue holds both in place.these act as handles when applying foil.You can paint white at this point,if you miss small spots with foil it will show less.Now coat lure in e.tex and also put some on scrap wood at same time for testing later.note time.for me about 8 hours is about correct,the epoxy has to be firm but tacky.here I am using papermania hot foil ,available from Amazon. I will do part 2 in few hours when this blank ready.

Sorry for not posting instructions, will try do it tomorrow.

Cheers pickadol, I will try and sort something out tomorrow.

The small 'loom' bands snap or release very easily mark, handy if you want to save a bit of wear on favourite lure.

Tested big cranks today guy's, action spot on.Made several in 2 thicknesses and 2 shapes /sizes.various lips.got 2 actions I was after and shallow running.dragged fast in moving water also and no sign of instability, very pleased, cheers input dave and others.may try and film them in white before adding colour if of use to anyone.

Hey guy's, thought this might be of interest to some-,while fitting rare earth magnets to couple of my lures to hold up belly hook, this simple idea occurred , small elastic bands kids used to play with, works perfectly.If a pike gets belly hook in mouth the band snaps ,so no interference. Cost pennies for hundreds , no work involved,apologies if somebody already came up with this , if not it's worth trying .

Good tips, will give both a try.think elmers is basically p.v.a , ?

Thanks ed, suprised no one's trying method, great variety of metalic, pearl, holographic etc. Effects possible. With no seams and less steps.cheers

Thanks input barr,I have made several prototypes with slightly varying dimensions, lip size etc.To achieve attitude of pictured lure will take 2-3 oz of lead so will start with that and vary .Like I say I am trying to achieve very shallow running at slow speed. Cheers

Cheers guys, not looking for exact measurements, never made cranks of this volume so thought I'd run it by you for opinions, cheers.

Definitely not m.t, the actual foil once applied is micro thin and has to go on a smooth surface, however you can get some good efects by sraying scale pattern.Best to coat foil first , then paint.

Following on from previous post regarding nail transfer foil directly on e-tex, here's a couple using papermania hot transfer foil to show effect.This comes in rolls 12cm wide so good for bigger lures, and good value also.Anyone tried method yet?

Appreciated vm,will be test swimming , trying to get prototypes made and tested before water freezes.Aim to be able to troll /retrieve very slowly. Based lip surface area to front of lure surface area proportions as a start, so made several ranging either side of this, thus going from 2cm long to 3.5cm, also made some narrowing toward lure body giving a shape more like pictured lure to see if wobble increases, will be trying various tow points, again based on lure in pic .Any opinion about what I asked about ballast starting point, regarding attitude of lure at rest?.Realise will be ballance between stability and depth .Again,target is to run very shallow, your views much appreciated vm.

Hello guys, I normally make gliders and jerks however have made small cranks and jakes in past so understand symmetry etc.Water here about to freeze so getting round to making some big meaty trolling lures.Never made cranks of this volume so appreciate your opinions.Made several blanks and lips to try and will try various tow points starting with position on lure pic.Being big and time consuming to carve I thought I would run them by you all for opinions. The timber is western red cedar 34 mm at widest point.Trying to achieve similar depth as lure in pic which sits at attitude of black line , half of body out water slightly tai down.This floating lure can be trolled slowly I.e. 2.5 knots, 75 feet line out at 4-5 ft deep.That is what I am trying to achieve. As a starting point I am wondering whether to ballast to just cocked or aim for similar attitude to lure pictured? That lure has ballast low and pretty much centred.Am using 12mm diameter ballast as pic.Aiming for good wobble at slow speed, minimum depth, Opinions appreciated.

Does look like shooting too much paint, also have you changed primer? Great idea to film . Trying to shoot createx colour opaque black is definitely tricky balance if your trying to get fine shading.However if you had success with it before, something else must have changed.

If you want a nice paint finish the surface has to be smooth, after sealing I add a layer of e-tex then primer and paint.the e-tex give a smooth base and another layer of protection.