padan

My first improvised lure I made was when I was about 8-9 y/o and my family was camping in the 1000 island area. I was fishing off the docks with great success catching bass. So much so I ran out of bait. So I gathered up some seaweed slime and shaped it into teardrop shapes and set it on the docks to dry a bit. Once they became firm enough i hooked them up and jigged around the edge of the docks catching several more bass. I actually caught the biggest bass of the day on this improvised seaweed jig as for my first AB painted lure. I just started this hobby 2 months ago and the first lure I painted came out very nice (it took me several days to paint it since i was, and still am a rookie). Once completed i was excited to take it out fishing. The first cast with it i caught a 15" smallmouth (true story), and I should have retired it right there while it was batting 1000. I continued to catch fish the remainder of the day with it, and then I hooked a nice big northern about 38-40". I got him up to the canoe and could see he had the lure t-boned in his mouth and was at risk of cutting my line if he turned the right way and made a run. Well he did ....... so, now i'm using version 2.0 of that pattern. But version 1.0 was special ...... i miss him

I have no experience with MCU's, but in some of the discussions i've read createx wicked white seems to be a culprit for wrinkling. What appears to be the solution is to dip the bait in pledge/future solution and letting that dry prior to dipping in MCU. I haven't worked up enough nerve to try MCU yet ...... one of these days I will.

I use both, createx airbrush(standard), and createx wicked. I emailed createx directly with similar questions, and here is what they advised. Keeping in mind I am painting on hard plastic baits. Thank you for contacting Createx Colors. Please see the attached application guide for detailed instructions on product usage. Createx Airbrush Colors are intended for textiles and porous surfaces, they will have tact after drying if applied to hard surfaces. Createx Airbrush Colors will also require extended drying times, after which heat must be used to cure the paint as opposed to Wicked Colors and Auto Air Colors which cure through air drying. However, many artists creating fishing lures use and swear by the Createx Airbrush Colors. Createx Airbrush Colors, Wicked Colors, and Auto Air Colors are compatible for use on the same project in a layer format but you would not want to mix the colors in the wet form.

thanks for the input guys, much appreciated! .. I may stick to D2T for now until I can bone up on the MCU's

Thanks BobP. I am curious, what do you attribute the hardening of the product to? Is it due to the container being open while dipping lures? or do you think it's a reaction to the lure being submerged in the product? or a combination of both? I'm guessing I could brush MCU on my lure as well, but I was looking for a more efficient (aka: lazy) way to apply the clear coat.

ok, so I'm a newbie to AB painting and already I know clearcoating is one of the most talked about subjects. I have been using the D2T epoxy and am somewhat satisfied with the results. But am looking at using an MCU to see if I like that better. I have read multiple threads on this and when it comes to dipping your lure in MCU, the one item I have not seen an answer to is do you dip the entire lure (including the dive bill) in MCU? I am concerned with pooling around the bill if I do that. What do you do? For some background, I am talking about plastic baits with bills already molded to lure. Any advise is appreciated