SW Lures

Like that wax idea Clemmy. I was thinking about a silicone but felt it would be hard to keep off the paint area. As far as a wood conditioner I've been using minwax harder from the being of making wooden baits. I have found it to be an excellent base sealer. Especially after several dips w/sanding, then a primer. Nice brainstorming Clemmy! On an original blank that would differently work. Dale

I have thought about it. I need to find some hardware that would fit this style. This one has two fitted through wires going from nose to the first hanger, same for the rear I believe. Reason why I think this is the hanger moved when work on the tow eye. I epoxy it back in. Yep thinking about it. Dale

No thank you Bigblue, I have a friend that will turn all I want.

Yeah....bismuth is another I have looked into as a alternative to lead. It is a concern for me with the environment too. Also the laws in some state's, countries. We are limited in what we can use, that's for sure. Dale

BobP is right about what they eat but the size of the forage is important too. Although I've seen fish dead because they tried to take down another one bigger than they should have. I didn't put this in my last post because we are in hard baits. I use a chartreuse buzz bait in water no deeper than 6' and with large rock bottom, early in the morning and late in the evening. Sometimes it really don't matter either way. Dale

Lol Dauds, I hope so! I almost made an error by posting here. So I had to put the pic in the gallery. Here is the link, Anyways I have the bait back in action. Take a look, let me know what you think. Was listening to Hendrix when painting, may have something to do with the scheme. Dale

Been using Hansan can't say anything about Pure Ice. I'd say Mark is the one who uses nail polish the most and could give the most insight..........just sayin. Dale

Tungsten (I think) is used for some jigs, wire baits forum would be another place to ask. The thing about tin, zinc etc. is that they loss a lot of density (weight). Brass is another good metal to use. Although brass and tungsten in split shots I have never seen. These metals are costly tho. Dale

Createx makes a reducer. Few drops in a regular size bowl will make a difference. When I reduce the paints I may shoot around 10 psi. I really believe that I can go that low because of the amount of reserve air (cf) @ whatever pressure that I'm at. Constant pressure makes a smoother spray. Dale

Thats for sure Nathan, his work is great. Dale

X2 w/Mark. Sounds like you need a good detail cleaning. These brushes shoot very fine mist, so anything in the chambers that interfers/stops the process is not good. If you haven't done any damage to the brush or you don't think it has any parts wore out it is most likely the cleaning. I do a detail cleaning about once a month. This depends on how much I paint. My daily clean up is similar to Mark's. This makes life much more fun during painting. Dale

I know of that guy he belongs to a group I belong to. He is expensive but he stands behind his work. He seems to very knowledgeable to bait making also. For me I'm going stay with the sponsors here. Unless you are selling baits, and a costumer wants these specifically I wouldn't use these. Nice work tho! Dale

Please don't take me wrong I like many of your baits. My opinion is just that my opion. I just don't want you to think that I am being to picky about your work. The trout scheme is my favorite actually. I'm a naturalist in my painting too. I'll go crazy once in awhile. As far as frisket (spelling) stencils, I don't use them much anymore. I mainly paint hand shape wooden blanks now a days. Many here do tho, its good to pass on knowledge about new tools, parts etc that you find. Thanks, Dale

Adding this, try different things for stencils. I use and like thin hard card board, like from a drink can box (separator piece). The reason is it will hold up and I can pick at it and make it irregular. This makes lines look more natural. End result is does the bait catch fish......these should! Dale

Since you are asking about your technique I don't think the powers to be will say something about this thread (aka, Nathan). We normally post pics in the gallery. Any pics other then a visual reference. That being stated, you are doing just fine. I don't exactly know how much you have painted in the past. I would not put a paint line thru a kill spot. The first two is fine and look nice but I would put a gill plate, kill spot, fins or something to jazz them up a little. See that's the problem, that's my taste. Your technique is fine for someone beginning. To me for looking at pics with clear coates/top coating I have trouble seeing details. These coats kinda makes paint schemes blend together, if that make sense. Paint work to me without clears can be seen better. It's a fine line between just enough details and over doing to me. You are doing fine. Just my, Dale

Keep that one JR, you will find out what I'm talking about. I have boats that fit the area I want to fish. I'm up in age but I'll jump in mine in a heart beat if I'm going to a certain water. Dale

JR, I have one about that size and it great to go where other boats can't get. I use it to float shallow water river. Example the James River west of the fall line. Some nice fish has been caught from that boat. Fish On Bro!! Tight lines, Dale

This is a question that is as big as the condition types. I like white, chartreuse in muddier water and browns, reds in clear waters. All with varying amounts of some type of flash. Depth is a condition to keep in mind also. Shape and size is a thought to think about too. What does your waters have for forage for the Smallies? The wives tail of bigger bait for bigger fish doesnt hold water most of the time. I do eat some fish that I catch (shhh, don't tell). I pay great attention to what a specie eats. That's my answer, know what is happening where you fish. After some years of fishing I know what works best. If I'm in a new area I keep close tabs on water conditions. I'm doing this now for a fishing trip I have planned even tho I'm set up for any conditions only because I have fish there before. Yes it's for Smallies, Walleye and Stripers. I'm planning on catching a record!! I know this is an general answer but think about what I have wrote. Dale

A paint like that actually breaks down the plastic at the surface to bond. Something like a fusion. This happens at the surface of the plactic and the underside of the paint. I'm not sure if you need to wait but it couldn't hurt. Organize your work to allow full curing. Dale

Looks like your doing fine, very nice work. Yep the helping hands work well, but Ben gave me one better for swim baits if the tail is fitted with a hook only. I modified it a bit tho. I made a jig for painting that I use a rubber band to keep the bait taught while painting. That is a difficult looking bait for that way. Dale

Looking good, looking forward to seeing the end result.

When I first started doing jigs I didnt bake them. They would chip often. Once I started baking I notice several changes. Chipping stopped, the powder didn't seem as grainy, seemed to level out better and the powder was much more shiny. Then I made a fluid bed, bought a brush and leveling issues became a thing of the past. As Cadman stated, but you can see the change in the structure of the surface.

Sudd I saw your post in hard baits and came over here to answer your question. Cadman is right about the heat, when I started I did the same thing for awhile. Even if the baits looks good the adhesive properties may not be there or maybe the baits will be fine. If you do have chipping or flaking off consider lesson learnt.