SW Lures
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I read a thread about this question in the archives Gliders. This is a interesting topic and you have asked some interesting questions that has peaked my curiosity. I'll be reading, thanks for the thread. Dale
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I agree with 21xdc about the eye recess/socket. When I paint plastic blanks I fit the I to the recess if there. I also believe it's the look you want. When I make an wooden blank I make the socket to the size eye that I want. I agree with the amount to have if you can. I have set at the end of paint a bait and thought gezzz I wish I had got a certain eye or dang I ran out of a eye that I needed to make a certain bait. I need to make a order myself now to. I always have enough now. Dale
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If you are going to make a original bait pattern you will have to have a master. This can be made of any material that will give you the shape that you are after. Most use wood for the master to make the mold for the resin. Silicone molds is said to give you the best mold because it allows for detail with undercuts (which makes sense). This I do know about mold making and POP (plaster of Paris) it is the cheapest way to make molds and it is limited in what it allows you to do. I'm using it now for me to start understand the does and don't in making molds. I will soon try silicone for a new detail lure that I have been designing. Will resins hold up? Don't believe anything short of kevlar will hold up to some species and this is one of them. So the length of time is the thing. Paint types and top clear coat is what I think will be very important. There will be some musky bait makers/fishermen coming along that can give you some insight on this part I'm sure. Dale
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Do you ever get jealous of other countrys' lure supply's?
SW Lures replied to clemmy's topic in Hard Baits
Heck, I'm at a very basic level myself with all these acronyms. Nip, I would think you had a wee drink of spirit's. HIIK (heck if I know), IMHO.....LOL WOW Dale -
Ron it's for sealing the wood. I use a wood harder. Then I lightly sand it and put a primer on or you could call it the base color. I use this to accent other colors to follow. You've seen paint manufatures show transparent paint over black and white paints, that's what I'm talking. So what I'm saying is that you seal the wood first/base coat, paint and seal your paint last which is the top coat. Hilltop called it a base clear coat, sealer if you will....same thing. Dale
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15 sec. is probably wrong but 30 isn't. I spray out, get a cup of water backflush and spray out. I then put the front part of the brush down to the cup in a water and a mild detergent, let it set. I go do something else. Then I come back to the brush and back flush and spray out. I put in the holder and let it drain for a while, while I do something else again. I spray out again and load the next paint. I don't consider the loading of the next paint part of cleaning. Doing something else consist of heat set, realigning the bait, prepping the next color, cleaning the area or whatever. So in actual seconds touching the brush for the cleaning of the brush...... it's about 30. When painting I move, I don't set messing around with the brush. If I have something else that needs to be done I do this during the cleaning/soaking or draining time of the brush. I don't consider this time as working on the brush cleaning. Now if we are talking about a total cleaning.....that's another story/topic. Dale
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Yep I looked up for the reason of the name for the file some years ago. The name come from it being a irregular cut. Being between course cut and the next finer cut file (finishing cut). Same for a pipe that is not used in a particular industry. Its considered a .........size. Man we come up with things to talk about. Files are about making hard baits tho. Whew....... we did a FYI without getting too far out there. Dale
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I have got making a bait to about 10-20 min. I'm done with shaping a bait of normal size. This is after cutting the wood with the bandsaw. All I use is one heavy rasp/standard file (not going to call the file by name), set of gouges and a set of miniture files. Then the detail, this can last 10-30 min. to 4-8 hrs (gill plate, scales, eye socket and mouth area). Started playing around with this much detail a few months ago. Unless you are going to use it as a master to pour resins, it seems to be a lot of work. I will use sanders , dremal or whatever is needed. Mainly tho by hand. Dale
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I'm ashamed.....I know what it is because of the better half. Yes I look at a lot of things on there. Proud to ashamed!
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Yeah I understand. I started on a large pieces of paper and pieces of scrap wood. Then I started trying to get the brush to do what I wanted it to do. I used black for the longest time it seemed like, thinning the paint, raising and lower in the pressure. During this time I used a cheap brush, and yes I used pvc pipe for a week or so. Didn't really care what it looked like. The point was to get me and the brush to work together. You can see splatters, spitting, the amount being laid on the piece, etc. I took my time getting to the blanks for painting. When I got to painting blanks I had a good idea of how to spray details and kept working on it. So why did I use pvc for this? So I could learn how to paint on a piece that had a radius and stop wasting money on blanks. Was it needed? I thought it helped me a lot. You can squeeze it in a vise to get it a tad more flatter sides with a heat gun. I think a lot gets frustrated because they expect to do it right off the start. No............ it takes practice! Dale
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One more thing to think about. Sometimes thinning a lot gets an effect that you may want. Dale
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Thinning, mixing and fine detail painting takes time/practice to get it down. But you know what.......you don't understand it until you keep trying. It's hard to tell you how to do things right from the start. Just keep asking questions and keep trying to do it. You may even find another way. Instead of making mistakes on a bait that you have put so much work on. Try doing these on anything else like paper, wood, pvc..... Keep it up you will get it. Dale
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Monte I was trying to think of some thin wire hooks. Not sure what advice to give you on this one. Dale
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I believe in time I may go and create a business and I hear you Flipper. That's why I looked into insurance and what it would cost to start one up. It's just not worth it at this time. I just make sure at this time to keep it at cost. Selling is so limited other then people that "doesn't want something for nothing". They realize that it cost me for all the materials. If you are golden (follow laws), you should have no worries. That is me! Dale
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You can make baits just fine by hand. Will it take you longer compared to power tools? We all know that answer. For some it's not a race but a relaxing and satisfying hobby. And there is nothing wrong with that. Dale
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A vise which can be a free stading table vise, carving knife or files (I perfer files), drill bits for eyes and hanges, bits for eye sockets (if you want the eye into the body), saw for lip in the bait and for cutting lips if that's what you want to do, sand paper, paints, sealer, clear coates. More detail This changes. Dale
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I'm on the right! Glade you got it worked no mater what. Dale
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I know few myself sadly. I also know what insurance cost for me to start up if I do it. I agree about insurance tho. I heard of those ridiculous law suites and you have prove neglet. These suites normally go visit the Tidy Bowl Man. I know this may be a generation joke. I have problems with aquanticises paying me back at cost. They catch fish and then come back for another for free, I gave them the first one. They got a "take care" after all the small talk on the second. Dale
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I've been thinking about this since my last post. You know G Rosa, if you do this right this person may become your best costumer and advertiser. Never know, Dale
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There are releasing agents, but for POP I'm not sure. I believe JR has used something for a releasing agent. You state Rip, that you are making them (baits) out of clay or are you referring to Plaster of Paris (POP) for the mold? Dale
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I took a look at the baits that you are trying to create. That's a good question. I can only tell you what I do. I draw the out line (profile) of the bait in two deminsions. After looking at the bait fish I'm trying to imitate. However this pattern must be able to swim. I put center lines on the block of wood that I'm going to use. This also includes the X and Y lines. On all sides. This helps with alignment of your pattern drawing. I just cut the outline of my pattern to get the basic profile. Wood glue the drawing to the block of wood. The bottom (belly) drawing has ballast info on it the side has the lip location and angle, tow eye location. I use a computer to make and save more patterns. I put lines on these two outlines where I want to start the rounding and ending. Here is where practice and eye for this comes into play. I just start filing the wood to what I want. If I'm making another I use a profile gauge to keep the copy as close as I can to the original. Some use router to round (power tools) but I don't. For this some of my baits don't conform to such uniform look. There is more about drill ballast/weight holes, cutting lip slot prior to cutting and some other things that should be done. You know that you could out line the bait you like to get this pattern/drawing. This is a general way that I do the basic out line. I hope this helps. Dale
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It depends on what you are after. That flat top of the head will drive the bait down (lipless). What type of wood is this? If you have too dense of wood, you will have trouble installing ballast. I'm not going say that anything is wrong because what I think can be totally off. I believe in answering a question then stearing someone. The rules to bait making applies, is the head area wider then the tail? This promotes action in the bait. Wood density for bouyancy as I have already suggested. Is the symmetry of the bait balanced. This promotes a straighter run. You can play with the symmetry more later for the "hunting swim". Another is ask yourself what are you fishing for? What is the main size of forage fish that is in your area that the predictor fish feeds on? I have had people tell me a certain thing would not work, but it did. So I can't be a hypocrite and say what's wrong. My personel taste is a more rounded body tho. Do what you intended for the bait. Remember failure is the best teacher if you are motivated. Keep at it, Dale
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You were clear I just put down the wrong name of the coat. Yeah I've been using rustoleum clear just after I came to TU. That's taboo too lol, plus another that I have found. Still testing it, so far looking good. Take care
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Actually polytranspar is cheaper then most quality water base paints per oz. However I'm still going to give it a try. One reason is the product interest me. Testor enamels gives a vivid color and shoots outstanding as Ben has stated. Its also gives a very smooth finish. Which has now been put on my paint list for certain applications using airbrushes. If a product does a job properly I don't care if it's cheaper. Take care, Dale
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Normally I have no trouble with sealers covering using as a primer. Never had a smell like that unless it was attractant on some other type of bait. Have you ever smelt an attractant? Don't worry about any other smell. Never have that problem. Could you have left something else in there Bob? Polytranspar seems to have pop up in the last few weeks and that is what I was stating about in my last post, even looking at their lacquer line. I was thinking about using them as accent colors. Dale