SW Lures

Good to hear. It's funny how one person can mess with materials and another one puts out oils that will contaminate, but it happens.

PM one of them or just give them time to pass thru. They will respond in time.

I did when I first started painting. I use auto air now and thinking about trying some that Mark uses. He was talking about rustoleum high gloss. The thing is I don't just use white or black anymore for my base coats. Yep I'm leaving Createx for my paints now, I'm using Wicked mainly. I'm even starting to look other types of paint and brands. Dale

There are two that I know of that has answered this post, that are owners of companies. They both said to get money first. I'm starting to slide towards being a company but I have sold as a hobbyist for some time now. I try to stay local, but that's getting harder to do. I understand your issue. PayPal is a options but I know that you would be adding cost to your product that way. The cross over is the issue and if both parties are honest, it's hard because the other doesn't know this. I believe by shipping what he paid for will show that you are just straight up and will go a looong way! I agree get your money first. Dale

Welcome and enjoy. Dale

That answered that question........ lololol. Natural light with flash. Thanks Dave! Dale

Sorry it took me a little time to get back. The people here turned me on to backing soda. Works pretty good and this depends on the grain size, some are a little more course then others. If you don't have a paint booth or cabinet be ready for somewhat of a mess. I did the same and bought a hobby blaster from Harbor Freight. LOL it's surprising me, I bought it just to start learning how to do this, still doing well. It will rough the plastic just a little. As Mark suggest, a quick dip in acetone will clean it up or a good water cleaning with dawn dish detergent and a rinse. Let it completely dry and maybe a little heat treatment can help. Dale

That a durn good question! I have taken pic under florescent, led, every light that's around a home w/flash and without. Never really like what comes from it. Now I do like putting a mirror glass under the bait(s) (water effect) out in the sunlight. I feel that I get the colors to show thru. Travis is in to photography, maybe he can give us a good answer. Dale

Thanks I looked CSI up before, I should have remembered. The bevel on the blade will be no problem either. Thanks!

I didn't expect a water base paint would be used on an metal surface. I expect enamel, acrylics or something else. If water base will do it, I'm just fine. I'm really not sure what the CSI stands for. The edges would not be to much of a issue I think, I understand the rounding of the edge. I'm think about getting a Copic set up for certain things like this. I saw some blades done with a ink or candy colors, a really sharper/nice look. Funny thing is Smallmouthaholic, these are for Smallies, yeah caught on them too. I'll give a try Mark. It's very much appreciated.

I was in another thread and this topic was brougt up. I looked in the search for infomation on painting blades and mainly came up with powder. I know about getting the manufactors finish off. I'm looking for infomation about a liquid paint, ink, candy's, etc. that is relitively safe to airbrush on smaller blades. I've got a clear coat for the covering. All thoughts are appreciated. Dale

Got one for jigs, bucktails, etc. Yep they are the thing to get unless you want to buy a oven that is made for this work. I find these with a hanging thermometer will do the trick. I'm just new to inline spinners. p.s., I don't think I like the idea of powder on small blades for painting. Spoons maybe because of the weight and throwing the blade out of balance. There are many other interesting paints, inks that would do it too.

I'm corrupted! Since I paint crankbaits, I want to start painting some blades and bodies. I need to read up on how to.

We (the group here) tried getting paint off of manufacturers paint job like what you have there G rosa. Is yours a water base paint? The baits did ok (didn't melt) in denatured alcohol but didn't remove it. We progressively went to a stronger solvents that didn't work. I blast them now, I have only did a few so far. I may try a old wooden bait, I just don't think this is the right at tho. Dale

There are many here that want to see you or anybody succeed. If not we missed the point of TU. Good for him, Dale

You are not picky Monte if you don't get a resolution in the issue from the vender. It's when a person that gets a few in a order of let's say twenty. This person doesn't contact the vender doesn't do anything to allow a correction by a vender. Gets on here and starts a rant. People here that doesn't know the vender thinks on crap I'm not dealing with them. The poor vender never had a chance. You can just ruin a person this way. When we say something, we need to think first and not with emotions. Your reputation Monte would make me believe you much more. Dale

Gorilla Glue has a super glue/epoxy as mentioned above. Just a FYI. This brings up another question about putting a screw eye in resin. Nah.....I'm not hitchhiking a thread/topic. For later! Good luck, Dale

I agree Monte they should. Some don't care if they get a few that are cow paddy's and for others 3.00 is some money for a piece of plastic if it doesn't work. I guess it's your point of reference. I may not care for what I get, but I do care about others. This is the problem with doing business online with some companies they will just get rid of them anyway they can. It's all in the buck or whatever currency you use. As I stated, you got live wire people that just jump way to soon and accuse someone wrongly. You must take it all the way out before you accuse a company. I'm with AZ, just keep the info as it has been in Blank Crankbait Body Link. JMO Take care, Dale

Being new to inline spinners I gave them a try for a trip coming up soon. I can get my hands on TIG and MIG Electrodes/welding rods and wire made out of SS at a really nice price. I've been watching all the post on inline spinners and used this ss for my shafts (.30) and they are doing great in test in a pond I use. I place some feathers on the treble hooks. I made a jig to do my twist in the shaft. Caught some nice fish on them, but that pond has a catch and release rule, per me...lol. It has some nice fish in it. I made the spinners with stirrup clevis's. There will be no worry about slime where I'm going, mountain lakes and rivers. Rocks, well that is a different story. This was a chance for me to say thanks for the info y'all put out on TU. The lures really turned out great. I'm looking forward on catching some smallies. Got the fever!!! Dale

I do the same as Mark except I'll do a quick but small twist back and forth to get the glue and belly weight bedded in. Yep I use gorilla glue but not the foaming/filling type. I use the clear liquid type in the blue covering, since you know about it. As Mark stated, very strong stuff trust me. Dale

I think that it is a good idea to help others. However having a pinned thread that tells you not to go here........I don't know if TU would want to commit to this. There is a right to free speech in the media tho. If we were correct in our post it would be ok, but then there will others who may not be correct in what they post. My reference to this is what happen lately about a vendor. I still think it's a good idea. Just don't know how much garbage will be put there. I would like to hear from business owners that are members here about it and a TU Rep. The owners here I respect and would value their opinions. Dale

I do the same Mark. I just hook up to the computer and drop the link in on spreadsheet with all the info too. Now I'm getting lazy and put everything on the pattern. All the info is right there on the cut out where I'm working. I keep the original on the wall for reference and measuring with a profile gauge. I just like the way I started doing hard bait with the original. Its like a master. The point that you showed me was the tearing/blowing out the sides of the thin baits by drilling ballast holes. I do this on all of the baits now. I don't have that problem anymore Mark.

Absolutely agree with Mark. Once you know what the weight balance is that you want you can try this. I draw a out line of the bait. Then I make a mark inside of the outline where the ballast is. I put down the weight amount. Where I want the hangers, lip/bib and angle, center lines and whatever you want. Then I snip/grab the image off of the scan on a computer. Take that in just keep putting it on a word sheet to fill the sheet up. This is two dimensions of the bait, side view and bottom. Measure the center line on your piece of wood. Cut your outline out then I use wood glue on the back off the paper outline. I line up all lines and let dry. I do all of my drilling (the points are on the paper outline) but totally to depth (Marks help), cut the lip, etc. Then do the outline by cutting the outline. Watch cutting to much to fast, if not you will cut your pattern off. Shape and you are there. Complete the drilling to proper depth. If you split the bait for a thru wire you can put it on you pattern paper for help. Watch your ballast with your thru wire. This good way of combining several task. Dale

Take a look at Dinger Custom Baits^^^^^. Predator is another. These guys help us and has plastic blanks. This doesn't mean you have to, but we try to help out sponsors here. We also can communicate if needed much more easier. If I missed any please chime in. That's why I normally don't refer by name. Can't remember all of these companies. Dale