SW Lures

This may take some time to prove the process. Just to let you know, I glue all of mine in and yes it can be a hassle but with everything going well I will not change. I use a Xacto knife to handle the eyes. Dale

I don't use resins so I can't help you with that. I can help you with ballast. I know of one here that buys lead wire cuts it as needed. I myself pour my ballast in a aluminum mold that I made. I'll use almost anything to get the right amount. Example is using a egg sinker, cutting it in half, buckshot pellet, BB's shoot for rattles and ballast, ss ball bearing, worm weight or whatever will work. I don't do much cutting. I'm making another mold to eliminate this creative thinking. The first one has 1/4" diameter weights. The next will be a 1/8". I'll have to preheat the mold completely before pouring. There is a point that we all try to hit and that is suspending. I realized that even water temperature can make a bait that did suspend, not at this perticular temperature. So I get the bait somewhere close to what I want. Usually a slow floating to get out of structure and trouble. Dake

Someone else had something similar. It ended up being contamination. Just another chance to weaken the bond.

Smalljaws answered while I was writing my post and he answered your question about the same as mine, except better. I will say this, I have a Griffin and enjoy it. I don't make jigs every day but it's fine for what it do. I do prefer being table mounted, because at times I put some pressure to flare the material out.

Since Nate turned me on to KBS I can't add to that. I will say this, any of the clears you want to do the mixing in away that will keep down the air being mixed in. Any two part compounds, you have to stir. Breathing on the epoxy can release any unwanted air pockets. One part fluids, a shack or a stir and let the air release first. Dale

You are going to get various opinions on this question. If I don't have to use a through wire I won't. When I do use a through wire I want a loop and the end wire going back into the body and secured. I have found that epoxy and a barrel twisted wire hanger is pretty dang strong. Getting the wire about 3/4" is really strong. Its all in what you like and trust. Dale

I buy mine online, LPO (lure parts online), TPS and now looking at a taxidermy supplier for some different colors. Brushes, I buy from the manufacturer if possible now or by a hands on look before buying. Dale

Yeah please let us know, I'm curious now. I was thinking of using spar at one time. I would like to know.

Do use a forstner bit to drill the socket? Just a guess, make sure to level out the socket with the sealing. I'm more like Dinger, but you stated 6 hrs curing. I was thinking there was a pocket under the eye, the point of the bit. I wouldn't think it was a reaction of two chemicals, not at 10% of the time. It has to be a release of air from somewhere or the way the clear is applied. Think about how you are applying the clear, you may find that you do something different every so often. That's all I can think of, sorry. Dale

.35 is pretty heavy. I use .30 304 ss harden straight wire. I can't remember what the others use. I believe it's around .22-.25. Make sure that you rough up your belly hangers for adhesion. Dale

Luhr Henson has a few nice baits Mark. I love a Woodchopper that I have but it's a tad bit wore out (tape liner/cover). I'm gonna re-work it. Looks nice buddy, I may borrow it. I'll do it in poplar. Dale

When you are just getting into this, you can't expect certain things to be at a level like one who has done it for 10-20 years or more. One of these are speed, when I'm teaching someone new to anything I'll tell them, "speed comes in time, learn to do it right first". It should not take you no more than 15-30 seconds to clean a brush between colors. As Bob L stated learn be organize first, then work on that cleaning. After painting out a color (water base) dip pour out, dip again and back flush, do that cycle again. Spray out the water and get at it again. If you do this right at the end of a paint session you don't have to do a total very often. I'll let someone take it from here. As Bob stated too, it takes time to build a reputation. Good luck, Dale

Well with those types of fish, have you thought of using Kevlar? Just sayin. Dale

Mark, I was thinking of a soft plastic or wee bit harder. Thinking about this while woking on a bait today. John Hopkins use this type of tail and find a lot too I believe. I was wondering about how to do this myself actually. Fin may get tore up a little tho. Dale

I'm sure there are few here that have experience with soft fins and tails for a bait. I know a few off the top of my head that uses them. Saltwater should not make to much of a difference, because must predictor fish hit further up on the bait fish, most are toothy tho. Someone will come a long and can give you some good advise. Dale

Just a tip if you tie directly to a tow eye. Always allow all clears to stay away from this eye. Others words hang nose up. I don't mind to clear hook eyes but when it comes to tow eyes I'm very protective of them. I don't want any abrasive areas on this eye. I'll tape, silicone or whatever to not have to use anything that would do this. I use a pair of smooth surface neddle nose to break any over the eye and then just chip the remainder off. Dale

Mr. Hopkins, why didn't your post surprise me. By hand, all of them?.....wow, just wow. Regards, Dale

I don't touch bait very much, if any once I start sealing and forward in the process. If I'm moving the bait around I use micro clamps on the bill or clamp to the tow eye. I have gotten use to it so it's no hassle. I take the bait to a tree that I made to hold the baits in a vertical position till I want to work on it again or it has dried. I release the clamp once hooked on the tree. Talking about contamination, all humans secrets oils from our glands and other contaminate fluids no matter if we wash our hands. The moment we finish washing the sercretion starts to build up again. Just a thought. I'm like Ben, if I don't need to wear gloves, I ain't. Dale

Welcome, As far as lexan clean up, yes you can use a dremel. We use just about every thing to cut it. I use a scrolling saw mostly, I clean up with files (more control and detail). I have to say this but don't pay a lot of attention unless you find I'm right. You are set up to use a tail for realistic detail, I understand this. This is my opinion, most fish hit cranks from sides, bottom, top or rear. Because they can't strike head on to be the most sussesful hook up, bill, line and speed of the bait retrive interfere. This being stated a large fin, tail sticking up or out hinders a solid hook up on average IMO. If I would to do fins I would look into a durable plastic that would give. I don't want nothing between the fish and the hook but water. I'm just giving you my honest opinion. As far as paints Hazmail can give you as good of infomation as anybody. Good luck, tight lines and again welcome, Dale

As far as I know Perry in Georgia still holds the world record for a naturally grown fish. For many years I thought It was Alabama. The fish was caught in 1932 in shallow water. It was a rainy year and he couldn't work in the fields so he went fishing for food. This and the rest of the story is fishing history and lore. Point I'm making is that the water was probably stained from the rains since it was a river. Being in shallow waters also would lead me to believe that a white and red bait would be the right scheme for the conditions. However I have never read about the bait used that day. Perry did advertise for a company afterwards. There is a bait that I like and mimic called the tunderstick, one of its schemes is red and white which I use in shallow stain waters or at night. It's all in what you are confident in. However color, pattern, clarity of the water, depth that you are fishing, etc. all play a roll in catching fish IMO. Not to mention action, size of the bait, etc., etc. And heck of a lot of luck. Dale

I do some painting by hand like at the gills. I carve the gill out then use red for the effect. I use water base, now. I'm stating to tinker with acrylic and enamel. Getting really interested in polytranspar. The water paints do well for the gill, it not as vivid which is what I like. I will do lines like on tigers or spots. I bought a quality set of hair brushes that I really like. I'm like you Jonister about the different paints tho. I want to see the differences and combinations for certain schemes. I just got a few colors to start with. If I buy polytranspar I'll get more of a variety. Dale

I'm brushing, I turn it a little for leveling. Being new to the clear, I maybe over doing it with turning a little...... but it can't hurt. Dale

I really like your work. You are doing very well with this technique. Dale

What was this paint? It must not set up that quick. Your find the speed that fits after awhile. Try painting pvc pipe or whatever until you get the hang of it. Don't waste time and effort on blanks. Dale

I've heard about flame polishing but I haven't went any further with researching. Thanks for the info JimP, I'm going to look at it to. I do like the latex over the lips like Hazmail referred to. The flame polishing may become a handy technique. Thanks, Dale