SW Lures

Pic's are a pain for more then one reason but it would be very helpful. I redip, tap, airbrush multiple coates a lot. I have never had this issue either. I use Pro Tech also, the glow green I use but the ruby slippers I haven't yet. I keep thinking about a contaminant but it only happens with these two. I'll will assume you do have many other colors by what and how you have stated your problem. I heat and get the powder on quick and then complete all of the work that I can get into the oven then I make the final curing of the powder. Question to make sure I'm getting this right. Do you allow cooling before the second color?

There is other products that you can use for sealing that is safer then what you are using I believe. I use a minwax product, wood sealer/hardener. It's thin enough not build up or get to heavy. Others here use different products. The respirator may not be catching the sealers vapors as much as you think. All filters are not equal, charcoal or not. Check out the filters spec.'s and your product. You are just dipping and letting it set so there's not to much flying around in the air. It's your call and checking it out. After you get the hardware in, you know where you are going from here with the bait right? I suggest making a few more baits, for a few reasons. 1) incase you don't get it right the first time, 2) I keep the first one that I get right for a visual reference in the future. These are just sealed with ballast locations and size of ballast. You can see some hanging on the picture in the thread I started in my duplicator & shop. Testing would be next. Remember what BobP told me; trolling is a different animal then casting and retrieving. I say this because you made a comment of muskies. Knowing a lot of people like trolling for them. Dale

These people are giving good advice. As you and your dad gets the saw tuned. Start reading about shaping, ballast, lip/bib and tow eye. Many more will chime in as you move forward. Painting comes at the end. Gotta make it swim first. You may fail on your first, second........but you will get it. Just don't give up. Read search info or ask. Dale

I suggest watching a safety vid or two on YouTube about band saws. Jonister I agree with backing out because of the smooth side of the blade and we can't follow the cut out perfectly. However I have (make) very small wedges that I place in a cut if needed. That's why I mentioned the blade condition. I cut my wood where there is very little waste. There is little to no issues with backing out. I don't know how anybody else cuts or shapes their blanks, I cut the two dimensions. If I cut all the way through on a line I will loss my marks on the second pattern. So I pick where I'll back out to minimize any issues. At the end of cutting I just snap the waste away. I would think most of us have to do this. Or I can glue that side back on or draw it on after. I don't have enough problems to do that. I think all of us are saying Hoffbossn, you'll missing out not taking the time to get the saw ready to use and learn how to use it. Take care all, Dale

As far as blades buy the right blade for the job. Example; I re-saw at times, I need that type of blade. I'll cut metal, I need that type of blade. If I'm cutting fine cuts, I'll need that type of blade for the job. I hope you have a manual, if so read it and watch Travis video. Get to know your machine first. Dale

If the band saw is sound mechanically I would start with these. With what you are saying I wonder do you have the tension on the blade correct? The next thing I am thinking about is the tires. Most tires are made from neoprene. These will harden and/or start breaking down in a few years with normal use as will any other of the materials. After these are right check your guides. These need to be a set distance from the blade, your find this in the owners manual. Goggle if you don't have one. Other then keeping your fingers away....and oh yeah the guards on. You'll find this to be the tool to go to. I used all types of saws when I started but now it is a stop at the band saw. Yes I made some jigs but it's well worth it. Dale

If not set up/tuned you will end up spending money that you wouldn't had to. Basically all saws are the same, but know your saw and maintenance for it. Google a handbook if you don't have one. The "tires" on the "wheels" can throw the blade off also. These tires are made from different materials but all can harden and break down In time. Tires being not to exspensive and the saw is old, I would put a new set on, then tune the saw after checking the machine and blade out real well. Just throwing my tires on the wheel. Dale

LOL....I forgot I have sled for the band saw to. I use this mainly for clamping as I do cutting. It will pivot using the sled with a miter gauge. Dale

These are the people and others that can give you some great advice. I got one slick little way to find you hinge holes. I determine where I want to drill the hinges in. I was setting and trying to find the best way to get a good alignment between two pieces. I thought of marking with a pencil mark, but it just didn't seem easy enough. Then I thought back to when I built furniture. There is a tool (dowel pins) that you can find center when using dowels. What I do is similar to this I drill the holes location on the male side and reset them if I want. I have SS electrodes of all sizes that I use but a finishing nail will do with the head cut off. Place the cut off end into the drill hole and place both pieces on a flat surface or what is needed to get the alignment you want. Ease the two pieces together. Press them and get a witness mark on the opposite piece (female side). Then you just drill to the desired depth. Remember the screw or wire angle does not have to be straight, it's all in the center point of both parts of the hinge(s). Ballast can make you alter the direction of the holes. Travis I have a sled that I made. I have just got to liking the band saw. Very thin as far as the curf cut. The table saw at best takes 2X more wood out then the 3/16" band blade I got. It's curf is just less then circuit board, a nice tight fit. I do just about everything now with band saw as far as hard baits. Hope this helps, Dale

Huff, you will find that a 45° cut can interfere with movement. I found this the hard way. If you put distance between two of the pieces at a hinge it will not be so bad. When we work a regular job and have a mistake like this it really puts us back. Think of it this way, if the hinge (pivot point) is very tight there will be a restriction in movement and will create unwanted problems. With stating that I do like the covering of the joint, angle cut. To give me more room I open the "V" cut on the head side to allow movement. Or put a hinge size in that allows total movement. As I make a small bait my cut gets close to 180°. I still leave a little cover over the hinge if possible. I also round the cut edges with sand paper. I work hard on the end grains to smooth them. This includes the joint area. Since you are working on round stock triple check your lip cut with the symmetry of your bait before cutting. I'm telling what I have done and my likes, doesn't mean it's right. I've just started making them myself. Your doing just fine IMO, Dale

I turn projects but not lures. I thought about buying a mini, but I'm to busy with what have got going on. So therefore I can't make any comments. I beg to differ Travis. I believe we're not blue bloods, but many has class. That's why I'm still here, just my humble opinion.

And oh yeah....don't stop being excited about your work!!!!!

I did the same as Ben. Not having a comment was not because of searching or a question. BobP and Jigginpig had answered the questions very well in my opinion. This group in TU seems to try to keep away from profanity. It keeps the site a step above or classy. We heavily debate and don't like comments, but I never seen any out of the way language. Maybe I haven't been around long enough. My grand looks at the gallery and reads at times. As Ben stated this can be a family type site. I'll promise you this, if I have something that might help you I'll will differently tell you. Anyways all's good stay classy.....keep asking questions don't stop! Dale

If you are talking about tying to treble hooks like what Ben is referring to. Think about tying them yourself. Other then getting a vise it's relatively inexpensive. This opens you up to make other baits like bucktail for strippers, etc. I really don't know what you are fishing for. To me a teaser or stinger is a extension to the main bait to add its effectiveness w/a secondary hook. Example; a bucktail with a soft paddle grub body on the bucktail w/another hook. This helps with short strikes. Dale

X2

You should always think safety when working most of what we do. Does a respirator fit the task? Then yes and make sure it will take care micron particles. If what you are doing needs a dust mask, then yes you need one. Don't think you are superman, be a whimp when it comes to this stuff. Dale

LOL, I 've been waiting for Mr. Hopkins to reply and....oh did you. Excellent work!! I really like them. Nathan made a comment about your abilities and he was absolutely correct. I enjoy looking at your work. Dale

When you have a project like a room inside your work area I'm surprised that you even found time to work on baits. I know you will be glade when it's finished. I tried to find this thread when I posted my thread about the shop. I didn't know that the search engine was down. I got frustrated and went and started the other. I told Dave that I would post, so I started that thread. I wish I had found this one. This where I wanted it to be. Dale

And yeah not to mention a gulf, a continent....maybe two, two oceans for Ray. Way to far for a four wheeler ride. I have been thinking of a motor being mounted underneath and bring the one drive shaft up with quality gears to change angles, divide to each side. This should keep the movement constant and smooth. Another thing that I didn't mention is I use metal bits. The reason is, these don't have such a wide gap between the cutters. This way the cutter doesn't get gum up as bad. The second thing is the metal seems much better. The sad thing is I prefer making my baits by hand at this time. If you look at my messy table, on the right you will see my files, knives, pencils, etc. One day I may go back but I feel I'm learning much more doing it by hand. I enjoy it. Dale

Very nice work. I believe when I made a comment about mixing powder paint in another thread I was misunderstood. This is what I was taking about. Again very nice and imaginative. Dale

WOW, I feel a little stone age compared to yours Pete. I see what your talking about now with the feeding system. Nice work, quite complex. Even a dust system. That's what I am going to put on mine. I have the main trunk line near by and I'll just drop a flex hose down. The other turner/duplicator with the gun stocks is interesting. It seems that any horizontal turning of a piece is and most become much more complex (drive system, gears, shafts, etc). I guess we all have a Inspector Gadget in us. You do the same Pete! Dale

If possible keep the grit as fine as possible. I got a tad bit carried away once and left some noticeable marks in the clear. Dale

Pete you did it. I'm interested in how yours works & looks. Pic' s??? Please! Dale

Thanks all, Dave it was fun to make it...but brother when it came to catching the first really good size fish last year from a bait that I designed, shaped, got the depth I wanted. WOW, there wasn't to many times I got that wound up. There has been times that I was worst tho..... Pete, the tweaking the design got me interested. This has the original bit in it that I started with. It is still ok after about 20 baits. I have a cone shape that seems to be better then this one. Interesting to make something better. Y'all are right about the blades compared to the bits in cost. LOL JR, I was thinking about doing the lights. But I was getting at it with those jigs and never got around to it. Needed have all of them painted. Hmmm, think I'll do that next year. With other baits around it. It would make a interesting Christmas Card. American tradition, don't know if other areas of the world do this. Dave, them bearing came from the skate board. Some of those boards have some quality bearings. It just to bad some of us that like things like this couldn't set around together and put our ideas together. It's fun to do, for sure! Thanks again, Dale

I find it actually better. There are something's that I have mentioned that I would like to see. Again tho I emphasize "I would like to see". That does not make it right just my opinion. Your differently right Dave. Curt has his opinions also and is trying to get them done. No matter what I am good. I learn and help, that's a good thing to me. It will be fine. Dale